Older California Reds Recall the Glory of the Past - Napa Valley Vineyard Re-Releases Decade-Old Cabernet Sauvignons

At a recent wine dinner, a senior wine statesman delivered a lengthy, vintage-by-vintage commentary on older California Cabernet Sauvignons. He eulogized Cabernet after Cabernet that was no longer available. In my opinion, it was an incredibly boring dissertation that could have been interesting if one could taste all of the oldies.

That is the problem with aged California reds; it’s fun for the taster to recall but sleep-inducing to an audience unfamiliar with the glories of the past. Familiarity with older reds is a desired goal, but few wine lovers have the capacity for long-term storage or the financial wherewithal to buy aged wines at expensive auctions. It is a vexing problem, to say the least, even for the vintners who would like to see their wines uncorked at just the right time.

That is why an offering of older Cabernets (or other reds) becomes a significant event. Napa Valley’s Raymond Vineyards is re-releasing Cabernets produced since its inception more than a decade ago, a range of 1977 through 1981. It would be better if they were two decades old, but a decade-old bottle can be an auspicious place to begin.

What makes the offering even more attractive are the prices, which range from the oldest, 1977, at $25 to the youngest, 1982, at $12. To find a 1977 at any price these days is virtually an impossibility, so for the Raymonds to merely double the original price of $12 is simply inexperienced pricing.

The ’77 is virtually at peak with just a couple more years of aging needed. Marked by a rich, soft taste, it is showing complex nuances and flavors that linger. The 13.8% alcohol does not hinder the wine, nor does six months in upright oak tanks followed by about 24 months of additional aging in small French oak barrels.

For sheer Cabernet power, the 1978 at $19 is a steal. This wine requires decanting before serving, and if drunk now, perhaps an hour or two of breathing before serving is needed. It can also take an additional decade of aging. Unquestionably, this is the biggest Cabernet of the group. It is a remarkable wine coming from a drought year suffering from low yields, which produced tightly structured, intense wines. The pleasures are obvious, and an excellent example of one of Napa Valley’s finer years, with at least some maturity for today’s consumption.

Eminently more drinkable now is the 1979, when the grapes were harvested immediately before the rain. Here is deep color and pleasant fruity aromas, with almost as much flavor as the ‘78, all in fine balance. There is silky elegance here, more finely developed than the ’78. For tasters looking for an immediate aged taste, this is perhaps the best choice. It is priced at $17.

Lightest in style is the 1980, and as wine maker Walter Raymond suggests, it is the most claret-like, although five more years of age is recommended. I found the wine to be good drinking today, but without the fruit flavor and structure of the others.

On the lean side is 1981 with greater spiciness in nose and palate. Raymond believes that this wine could well be the best upon maturity, but recommends additional aging of at least five years. Coming from a cool year, the wine spent 23 months in oak and shows a touch of wood, otherwise a good buy at $13.

Three Cabernets of more recent vintage are first rate. Cabernet, 1982, at a moderate $12 is a medium-bodied wine with lean textures and pleasant, full-fruited flavors which require several more years of aging. Aged for 23 months in French oak barrels, the wine’s balance and silkiness reflect the intention of the winery to make bigger style Cabernets.

The other two Cabernets are designated as “Private Reserve” wines, which are made from selected lots of estate grapes that are set aside and given longer barrel and bottle aging. These are not for the faint of heart, but for those who relish big, intense flavors and considerably more oak than the regular Raymond Cabernets. Both Private Reserve, 1981, and 1982, are 100% Cabernet, whereas the regulars incorporate a percentage of Merlot grapes varying between 15% and 20%, depending on the vintage.

Only a modest quantity of 1981 Private Reserve is available, which may be all to the good since it is not as appealing because of its 42 months in French oak. The ‘82, however, with only 30 months of aging, is a wine of huge structure, mouth-filling flavors and a fullness that suggests a Port-like character. Although the finish is a bit hot, it is nevertheless smooth and assertively varietal. Not excessively priced at $16, it is an excellent buy for younger wine drinkers with the patience to cellar-age it.

Walter Raymond is enjoying the perfecting of these small batches of exciting Cabernets. The overall production of this former boutique winery has climbed from 40,000 cases in 1985 to 85,000 cases in 1986. The winery’s meteoric popularity is even surprising to Walter’s father, Roy Sr., who is now celebrating his 54th year in Napa Valley wine making and claiming the title of California’s oldest active vintner in continuous service.

Generations old French wine firms like to brag about the handing down of tried and true wine stylizing experience, in some cases for more than 500 years. The Raymonds, with roots that reach back to pre-Prohibition days, can now do a bit of bragging, too.