ABALONEY

Abalone--especially fresh-on-the-beach abalone--is tough and tasteless because it must be sliced, then pounded, until it is very thin.

Bread it, cook with oil in a frying pan until golden brown and serve with lemon. I couldn’t have you go through life without knowing why it is one of my favorite dishes. If it doesn’t become one of yours, you haven’t prepared it properly.

CHIARA Z. CLAUDIUS

West Los Angeles