Catalina’s Surprising Outback

The islophile expecting a lush landscape is often surprised by Santa Catalina Island’s back country. Catalina’s vegetation is sparse, Spartan. It resembles a Greek island--one of the Cyclades, perhaps--far more than a tropical South Sea paradise.

Catalina shares the semi-arid conditions of Southern California, but hosts a surprising amount of plant life. About 600 species, 400 or so of them native plants, grow on the island. By taking a walk above Avalon, the day hiker can study the island’s botany at the Botanical Garden, then venture into the interior to view Catalina’s special flora in its natural habitat.

The route out of Avalon, which I have dubbed “Avalon Canyon Loop Trail,” leads to the Botanical Garden, a showcase for plants native to Catalina and the Channel Islands. At the head of the canyon is the imposing Wrigley Memorial, a huge monument honoring chewing gum magnate William Wrigley, who purchased most of the island in 1919.

Families with children and those visitors looking more for a walk than a hike will enjoy the trip as far as the Botanical Garden. More adventurous hikers will undertake the second, much more strenuous part of this loop trip, which utilizes fire roads and Hermit Gulch Trail and offers a sampling of Catalina’s rugged and bold terrain.

Directions to trail head: Several boat companies offer ferry service to Catalina, with departures from San Diego, Newport Beach, Long Beach and San Pedro. The least expensive ($21.90 adults, $11.70 for ages 2 to 12) round-trip fare is offered by Catalina Cruises, which operates out of San Pedro and Long Beach. The 22-mile crossing to Catalina takes about 2 hours. Catalina Express, which offers the fastest boats (90 minutes to Avalon), also operates out of Long Beach and San Pedro. Rates for a round trip are $25 for adults, $15 for children 2-12. For more information about ferryboat schedules and island services and accommodations, call the Catalina Island Chamber of Commerce: (213) 510-1520.

Hiking Permit

If you intend to hike into the Catalina back country (anywhere past the Botanical Garden), you must secure a free hiking permit from the Los Angeles County Department of Parks and Recreation. The department operates as information center in the Island Plaza, 213 Catalina St. You can pick up a trail map ($1) here and secure your permit. Information: (213) 510-0688.

The hike: Walk uphill along Catalina Street, which soon joins Avalon Canyon Road, passes a few residences, and begins a 1 1/2-mile ascent toward the Botanical Garden. On your right, you’ll soon pass one of Wrigley’s many contributions to the island, Bird Park, which once held thousands of unusual birds in the “largest bird cage in the world.” Bird Park is now a campground. On the left side of the road, bleacher bums will stop and pay homage to the spring training camp of Wrigley’s beloved Chicago Cubs.

At the end of the road is the Botanical Garden ($1 admission). The garden began in the 1920s, when Wrigley’s wife, Ada, began planting native and exotic plants in Avalon Canyon. More recently it has been greatly expanded and emphasizes native Southern California flora. Particularly interesting are plants endemic to Catalina, including Catalina mahogany, Catalina manzanita, Catalina live-forever and Catalina ironwood. Pay close attention to the plant identification placards beside the plants; you’ll be “tested” on your botany later on the hike.

When you’ve memorized at least three native plant species, proceed up the dirt path to the Wrigley Memorial. At one time, Wrigley was entombed here. If you wish, climb the many stairs to the 232-foot-wide, 130-foot-high monument and enjoy the great view of Avalon Harbor.

An Unlocked Gate

At this point, intrepid hikers will not proceed back to Avalon for some liquid refreshment, but pass through an unlocked gate below and to the right of the memorial and stride up Memorial Road. Scrub oak, manzanita and lemonade berry--and many more of the same plants, sans identification plaques, that you studied at the Botanical Garden--line the fire road.

The vigorous ascent on Memorial Road offers better views of Avalon Harbor. It’s likely your approach will flush a covey or two of quail from the brush. Better birders might recognize the Catalina quail, a slightly larger and darker subspecies than its mainland relative.

Memorial Road reaches a divide, where, appropriately enough, you will intersect Divide Road. Bear right. From the 1,000-foot-high divide, you’ll have commanding views of both sides of the island and the mainland. The mainland sometimes has an interesting look from this vantage point: the major topographical features of the Southern California basin--the Santa Monica and San Gabriel mountains--but not a trace of civilization!

Continue along the divide, which bristles with prickly pear cactus. The slopes below are crisscrossed with trails made by the island’s many wild goats. After about three-fourths of a mile of walking atop the divide, you’ll bear right on Hermit Gulch Trail, which descends 2.4 miles along a waterless canyon back to Avalon Canyon Road. You will intersect Avalon Canyon Road a few hundred yards below the Botanical Garden. Turn left and saunter downhill to the comforts of Avalon.

Avalon Canyon Loop Trail

Six-and-one-half miles round trip; 1,000-foot elevation gain.