A Day by the Bay : A Three-Hour Walking Tour of Balboa Peninsula and Balboa Island in Historic Newport Beach

For many beachgoers, a day at the shore means sun, sand and surf. For others, it’s a trip back in time to fishing piers, boat rides, harborside villages, Ferris wheels, corn dogs and ice cream. Perhaps no other seaside community in Southern California offers such a nostalgic setting for walking as the Balboa Peninsula and Balboa Island in Newport Bay.

Protected by the sandy Balboa Peninsula, the bay’s tranquil waters provide shelter for both a fleet of pleasure craft and an ecological preserve, as well as eight islands.

What follows is a three-hour walking tour exploring the heart of Balboa Peninsula and Balboa Island. With the summer crowds, it’s best to begin by 9 a.m. when parking is easiest. Wear comfortable shoes, dress casually and take sunglasses. A few cafes popular with the locals are suggested for breakfast. You may even want to bring your beach gear.

Directions to Start of Walk

To get to the start of the walk from the San Diego Freeway, exit south on the Corona del Mar Freeway to the southbound Costa Mesa Freeway, which feeds into Newport Boulevard. Continue south as the road reaches the Balboa Peninsula and becomes Balboa Boulevard. Turn right on Palm Street to the municipal parking area around the foot of the Balboa Pier. The meters range from 25 cents to $1 per hour.

Begin at Main Street and Ocean Front. Stroll south along Peninsula Park toward Balboa Pier. Nearby a stone marker with a flagpole and bronze plaque commemorates Glenn L. Martin who made aviation history in 1912 when he flew a hydroplane from Newport Beach to Catalina Island--the longest and fastest over-water flight to date.

Stroll to the end of the pier, built in 1940 and often lined with anglers.

Since its earliest days, piers have played an important role in the history of Newport Beach. In 1868 a New Yorker named James McFadden bought 5,000 acres surrounding Newport Bay. The land was considered unsafe and unsuitable as a harbor because of the narrow entrance.

In 1870, however, a daring sea captain steered a stern-wheeler from San Francisco into the bay. Agreeing that the steamer proved that the bay was really a “new port,” James and his enterprising brother, Robert, built a dock and warehouse in the inner bay in 1872, christening their new community Newport Landing.

Unable to obtain federal funds to improve their harbor, however, the McFadden brothers decided in 1887 to move their shipping business from the inner bay to the ocean front, near the present Newport Pier. A year later, they began construction of a railroad wharf there. Many of the wooden buildings from Newport Landing were then moved onto barrels, floated across the bay, and propped on the sand to become the first buildings of Newport Beach.

With the success of their new ocean pier, the McFaddens began the Santa Ana & Newport Railroad Co., completing the 11-mile line from Santa Ana in 1891. The ride took only 40 minutes between the two towns, stopping only once to load water from an artesian well.

In a prescient stroke, the McFadden brothers had also purchased about 1,000 acres of marshland (including what today are known as Lido and Balboa Islands) and the sand pit (now the Balboa Peninsula) from the state for $1 an acre. In 1892 the site of Newport Beach was platted. It was a company town with the lots being leased rather than sold.

Tourists flocked to the seaport resort the following summer. Many complained, however, that some beach cottage rentals were too expensive at $8 a month.

As you walk to the end of the Balboa Pier today, you gain a panoramic perspective of the surrounding region. To the east are the gently rolling San Joaquin Hills encircling Laguna Beach. Looking north you can see the high-rises of Newport Center surrounding Fashion Island Mall. Behind the towers rises Saddleback Peak. On clear days you can even see the distant San Gabriel mountains. Often Catalina Island etches the southern horizon.

Dory Fishing Fleet

The Newport Pier, which was built in the 1940s to replace McFadden’s Pier, can be seen about 1 1/2 miles to the west. The early days of Newport Beach are recalled by the dory fishing fleet. Each morning since 1891, the wooden fishing boats have left Newport Harbor before dawn. The last on the West Coast, the dory fleet sells its catch every day from 9:30 a.m. to noon on the beach next to the Newport Pier.

At the end of the Balboa Pier stands Ruby’s, an ever-popular ‘40s-style diner in a Streamline Moderne structure complete with Leatherette booths and Formica-topped counter. Specializing in omelets, burgers, salads, and desserts, Ruby’s is open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Walk back to Main Street and Ocean Front where the Balboa Inn stands at 105 Main St. Built in 1929, this three-story Spanish Colonial Revival hotel with street-level shops and cafes is a local landmark. Detailed with balconies, red-tiled roofs, corner towers, and a front arcade with squat columns, the Balboa Inn was renovated in 1985.

Turn left on Ocean Front, walking west to Washington Street. The Rendezvous Ballroom stood here at the southwest corner from 1928 to 1966, when it was destroyed by a fire. Built for $200,000, the legendary dance hall featured the best of the big bands, including Freddie Martin and Glenn Miller.

Turn right on Washington Street to Balboa Boulevard. On the southwest corner is one of the Peninsula’s most elegant buildings, the Balboa Bank Building. Built in 1928, the Spanish Colonial Revival bank includes an ornamental entrance of wrought-iron grillwork and clock. On one side seven stained-glass windows depict sea life and coastline scenes. Refurbished as a restaurant several years ago, the building now sits empty.

At Balboa Boulevard turn left and walk to the Bubbles Balboa Club, a restaurant and cabaret at 111 Palm St. Built in 1985, this Streamline Moderne building looks like a set for a Fred Astaire musical with its front entrance of glass bricks, stainless-steel doors with porthole windows, and a neon lit marquee.

Summer Resort Town

The club recalls the 1930s and ‘40s when Newport Beach was primarily a summer resort town. Families rented beach cottages for the season. Visitors rode the Pacific Electric Red Cars to the Peninsula for beach play by day and dancing to big bands at night.

Turn left at Palm Street and walk to Hidi’s at 105, a landmark cafe to locals. Peek inside at Hidi’s nautically inspired decor or stop in for breakfast.

Walk south to Ocean Front and turn right--the crowds around the Balboa Pier behind you--into a quiet beachfront neighborhood. The single-family houses, many from the 1920s, reflect the popular “beach cottage” style with their wood clapboard or shingled sides, verandas, view windows, and exposed rafters.

At 7th Street walk north, turn right on Bay Street, and veer left onto Buena Vista Boulevard. This shady harbor-front walk, lined with eucalyptus trees and lawns, offers sweeping views of Newport Bay with its 10 yacht clubs and 10,000 pleasure craft.

Turn right at Edgewater Avenue. Note the grand two-story Craftsman manor at 507 with its low overhanging eaves, shingled sides, exposed rafters and Craftsman lanterns.

Immediately north is Bay Isle, a privately owned isle with large homes. This area between Buena Vista Boulevard. and Main Street was known in the 1890s as Abbott’s Landing. Edward J. Abbott, the area’s first developer, originally set up a small business selling abalone shells in a nearby shack. Later, he discovered fresh water just below his land, brought soil to the area, and planted the first trees on the peninsula, some of which still stand on Bay Isle.

The most famous resident of Bay Isle was Polish actress Helena Modjeska. She moved to a small cottage here with her husband in 1908. On April 18, 1909, Madame Modjeska died. The funeral cortege carried her casket across the Bay Isle bridge to a Pacific Electric train, which brought her casket to St. Vibiana’s Cathedral in downtown Los Angeles for services, before her body was returned to Krakow, Poland.

The Oldest House

Continue walking on Edgewater Avenue; turn right on Coronado Street to the Schnack House, an Orientalized Craftsman beach cottage built in 1910 for about $300. The charming bungalow may be the oldest house in the neighborhood.

Return to Edgewater Avenue and walk east to Palm Street. From here, wait for the next Balboa Island ferry. One of California’s most delightful transit services, the ferries began operating in 1909. Ten years later a pioneer developer named Joseph A. Beek took over the ferry service and his company has managed it ever since. In 1921 Beek began auto ferry service. Today, the ferries are regulated by the Public Utilities Commission and cost only 20 cents per adult.

As you bob across the bay toward Balboa Island, note the rich variety of water traffic. Ferries, yachts, sailboats, rowboats, canoes, tour boats, and even kayaks glide furtively across the waters.

Exit the ferry on Balboa Island and turn right at South Bay Front. Few beach towns rival the picturesque character of this island village. A mix of architectural styles from Craftsman to English Tudor to Cape Cod are represented along the harbor-front walkway. Flower gardens spill across decks and patios.

Sarcely 80 years ago this island community was a lonely marsh, barely visible at high tide. In 1907, a developer named William S. Collins bought the forlorn wetland. Dredging sand from the bay, Collins pumped it onto the marsh to raise his property above the water. In 1910, the island took its present shape and was quickly subdivided.

Although many lots sold within five years, the island’s sewage lines and tidal bulwarks were haphazardly constructed. The new residents complained. Failing to provide promised improvements, Collins sold his holdings, leaving the residents in the cold.

In 1916 the island was annexed to Newport Beach. When the residents appealed to their new city for improvements in 1919, the mayor declared, “The island is a dump. It was sold by a lot of damn crooks to a lot of damn fools.” Few would agree with that mayor today.

Continue following South Bay Front, next to a sliver of sand dotted with local sunbathers.

Turn left at Grand Canal. At Park Avenue (the first bridge), turn left and walk one block to Marine Avenue, the town’s only commercial district.

At Marine Avenue, turn right. For two blocks the village-like district is lined with gift stores, beach boutiques, bakeries, ice cream and frozen yogurt parlors, realty offices, and lively cafes. Towering eucalyptus trees, benches and quaint storefronts contribute to the intimate scale.

A few shops especially reflect the casual Balboa Island life style. Stop at Hershey’s Market, established in 1929 at the northeast corner of Marine and Park Avenues. Dad’s Donuts at 318 Marine Ave. offers homemade doughnuts, bran muffins, gingerbread snaps, giant florentines, and legendary Balboa bars, a slab of vanilla ice cream hand-dipped in chocolate and rolled in your favorite topping.

Cross the street at North Bay Front and walk south on Marine Avenue. If you want to have breakfast in a cafe, try Wilma’s Patio at 225, Dippy’s Island Cafe at 203, or the Village Inn at 127. Popular with locals, each cafe opens at 6:30 a.m., offering hearty breakfasts.

Turn right on Park Avenue and then right on Onyx Avenue. Walk two blocks north and turn left on North Bay Front. Follow the harbor-front walk around the island as it returns to the Balboa Island Ferry at Agate Avenue and return on the ferry to the Balboa Peninsula.

When you land on the peninsula, immediately turn left and explore the Fun Zone. This amusement area was begun in 1936 by Al Anderson; each year he added another concession or ride. For decades, vacationing families visited its Ferris wheel, carrousel, cotton candy and orange juice stands, boat rentals, and games of chance. In the 1950s, when Balboa became known as “the Fort Lauderdale of the West,” college students on spring break flocked to the peninsula and the Fun Zone for “Bal Week” at Easter.

In 1985, the aging amusement park was demolished and a new $7-million project approved. Today, the new Fun Zone has reassembled the original carrousel and 1908 Ferris wheel amid a New England-styled entertainment complex.

Landmark Building

Walk to the Balboa Pavilion at the end of Main Street. In 1905 the Newport Bay Investment Co. built the structure for $15,000 as a promotional real estate venture. Sitting along 210 feet of waterfront, the Pavilion quickly became the landmark building in Newport Beach.

The developers then persuaded Collis Huntington to extend his Pacific Electric line down the Balboa Peninsula to the Pavilion. On July 3, 1906, the first train arrived, hauling 80 cars with more than 1,000 excursionists, mainly from Pasadena, for a barbecue picnic.

The Pavilion has since become the heart of Balboa. For decades vacationers have gathered at the Moorish-inspired pleasure palace for bowling, dining, and dancing. Stop inside for a view of historical photographs in the entrance hallway.

Walk south on Main Street, which leads from the Balboa Pavilion to the Balboa Pier. Lined with more beach boutiques and eateries, the picturesque lane is shaded by Indian laurel fig trees. At the northeast corner of Main Street and Balboa Boulevard stands one of the most charming buildings on the Peninsula: the Balboa Hardware building. Suggesting an adobe Monterey house, the two-story balconied building boasts a magnificently tiled, Moorish-themed entryway.

From here you can spend the rest of the day lazing in the sun or relaxing at a local cafe.