COUNTER CULTURE

We all have those days when we want to enter inconspicuously, sit ourselves down, order up a meal and leave without fanfare. Here are some restaurants that have counters for just those occasions. AUTHENTIC CAFE (7605 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 939-4626). This itty-bitty, stools-only diner where the eclectic cooking is upscale and the prices downscale became a hit right off the bat. You might try the Moroccan bastilla (filo pastry chicken bits) or the hot and spicy Sichuan dumplings as an appetizer. For entrees you get things like fresh corn tamales, meat loaf, a Yucatecan chicken in a citrus marinade or a healthful ragout of fresh vegetables (squash, peppers, corn and zucchini). The homemade desserts are surprisingly good--try the creme brulee, it’s outstanding. Lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday. No credit cards. Street parking. Dinner for two, food only, $12-$20.

DAISUKE (123 Weller St., Los Angeles, (213) 617-2239). All done out in “early utilitarian,” this Los Angeles branch of the Tokyo-based chain has great homemade noodles--real comfort food. Daisuke offers huge bowls of cold or hot noodles; you have a choice of udon (thick white flour noodles), soba (thinner buckwheat ones), or cha-soba (thin green tea noodles). Or if you are feeling fickle, try the Daisuke special which is a combination of hot and cold noodles. A nice way to end the meal would be a bowl of green tea ice cream. Lunch and dinner daily. MasterCard, Visa. Validated parking for over $10. Dinner for two, food only $9-$15.

DUKE’S (8909 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood (213) 652-9411). This is the old Duke’s in its new location. Yup. It’s still the same. And the food is still A-1 chow. For breakfast there are 32 different omelets, several kinds of bacon, great pancakes and corned beef hash. The cinnamon-swirl French toast is a dream. There are 11 club sandwiches, 19 variations of hamburgers plus daily specials. The only thing new at Dukes is dinner. You might try the brisket and baked potatoes, and follow it with a slab of their moist lemon cake. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. No credit cards. Parking in rear. Dinner for two, food only, $8-$20. ED DEBEVIC’S SHORT ORDERS DELUXE (134 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (213) 659-1952). Debevic’s is a diner done with affection, not affectation. But it is more than merely a restaurant, it is a whole new kind of dinner-theater. The waiters and waitresses are all playing parts and you play right along with them. It’s a ticket back to a place you wish you had never left. There are cherry Cokes and Green Rivers. There are hamburgers--a pretty thick patty with lots of pickles, onions, etc.; chicken tetrazzini--noodles and white sauce and chunks of chicken; and four way chili--decent chili topped with onions, macaroni and cheese. There is also noise. For more nostalgia, you might end your meal with the world’s smallest hot fudge sundae, a morsel of ice cream, whipped cream and fudge served in a little egg cup-sized glass but only 35 cents. Lunch and dinner daily. No credit cards. Full bar. Valet and street parking. Dinner for two, food only $7-$20. (Also in Torrance, 23705 S. Hawthorne Blvd., (213) 378-5454).

GIANNI (3333 Bear St., No. 118, Costa Mesa (714) 540-3365). Gianni might be described as a stripped-down, mall-size version of Prego. For an appetizer you might try mozzarella in carozza : egg-sized cubes of fried mozzarella in a bit of fresh tomato sauce. The pizzas here are rather simple; Pizza Margherita topped with tomatoes and cheese is about the best. The pastas are generally easy to like and so are the nice light gnocchi and spaghetti puttanesca spiked with capers. The polla al limone is a barely done chicken breast in a very lively lemon sauce, heavily dosed with capers. For dessert you might try a crowd-pleasing tiramisu or some very respectable pastries: lemon cake, almond cakes and tartlets filed with chocolate or fruit. Lunch and dinner daily, closes 6 p.m. on Sun. MasterCard, Visa, American Express. Beer and wine. Mall parking.

TUDY’S RESTAURANT (5006 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 937-7917). Tudy’s serves home-style cooking with soul food overtones. Breakfast is a must. There are old-fashioned pancakes, French toast, omelets. There are terrific, moist, fresh grits served along with usual truck-stop egg dishes and the biscuits are divine, with or without gravy. Lunch and dinner menus are the same. Try the short ribs whenever they’re on the special--they’re incredibly good. The burgers are good, too. There are also scallops, fish and calves liver. The homemade desserts are terrific. You’ll find apple pie, peach cobbler and bread pudding--good enough to polish off to the last, stray crumb. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. No credit cards. Reservations recommended. Parking lot in rear.