The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Best Place Restaurant, 9693 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove. (714) 638-3600. Open daily .

Korean cuisine is remarkable--full of musk and smoky flavors. A stretch of Garden Grove Boulevard has several places offering it. Look no further: Best Place Restaurant, a barbecue house serving stews, grills, griddles and even sushi should satisfy you. Try the gool bo sam , a large platter of raw oysters, salt pork, white radish and Chinese cabbage; you roll everything up and eat it like a taco. Pa jeon is a giant pancake with green onion, pork and red pepper. Sit on low cushions and barbecue beef on a tableside grill, as Korean families do. Remarkably addictive.

Dewi, 1762 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 637-1101, and 9606 Hamilton, Huntington Beach, (714) 962-4446.

Hurry over to Dewi in Orange, a small Indonesian restaurant/grocery store hidden among commercial properties along a busy avenue. Nasi rames is a mixed rice plate with a whole cookbook full of Indonesian goodies, and the restaurant has fabulous barbecued chicken and hot stewed beef dishes. Owner Edith Vredevoogd is constantly preparing little snacks such as lemper , a sticky rice roll filled with minced chicken, or cendol , mysterious green bits taken with crushed ice, syrup and jackfruit. There is a second Dewi run by Mrs. V’s brother in Huntington Beach. Exotica at its best.

Dover’s, at the Doubletree Hotel, 100 E. The City Drive, Orange . (714) 634-4500. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Dover’s at the Doubletree Hotel in Orange is an eye-catching restaurant with a ceiling more than three stories high and an eclectic collection of objets d’art that gives the restaurant the feeling of a museum, but the cooking is often less lofty. Chef Steve Lancaster attempts too much, and the result is an erratic jumble of good and bad. Salmon tartare is wonderfully silky and big enough to share, and appetizers are generally impressive, especially a seafood sausage in a bed of green and white linguini.

JW’s, in the Anaheim Marriott Hotel, 700 W. Convention Way, Anaheim . (714) 750-0900 .

JW’s is one of those staunchly old-school special occasion restaurants, but the food is somewhat innovative and of surprisingly high quality. Appetizers show a certain daring, like foie gras served on a potato galette in a Madeira sauce, or escargot ravioli with wild mushrooms. Main dishes show enthusiasm as well, and the sauces accompanying them are generally big hits. Roast boar comes drenched with a simple sauce of sage, juniper and honey, and has a robust spiciness. Venison comes in a sauce based on red wine vinegar. Prices are definitely on the high end.

La Mer Genkai, 540 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach . (714) 497-6799. Open every day from 5:30 PM. All major credit cards.

La Mer Genkai is a restaurant with something for everybody: the food is Frenchified Japanese, with more than a hint of California thrown in for good measure. Belly up to the sushi bar for such designer treats as “dynamite,” a seaweed wrapped cone with tuna, daikon sprouts and Japanese chili. Or sit in the woodsy dining room with the pink back lighting and ape at sauteed duck in rasberry butter served rose petal style, and simple salmon teriyaki. Both traditional and non-traditional dishes are given a field day in this noisy, exuberant restaurant. Yuppies are especially welcome.

Marrakesh, 1100 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach . (714) 645-8384. Open nightly. All major credit cards.

Eat with your fingers without fear of recrimination from your mother at Marrakesh, a Moroccan restaurant in Newport Beach. You sit on cushions at a low table in a tent-like room and manhandle your way through a traditional, multi-course dinner served by waiters in desert garb. Begin with harira , the spicy lentil broth, and assorted salads eaten with local bread. B’stilla , a chicken and egg pie topped with cinnamon and sugar, will follow, and then a choice of main dishes including quail, rabbit and couscous, the grain staple eaten throughout north Africa. It’s a sensual, completely delightful way to spend an evening.