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Minis Help Make Better Butters

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<i> Freiman is a New York-based food writer</i>

Mini food processors such as the Oscar or the new Cuisinart Little Pro, are ideal for processing small quantities. These scaled-down machines eliminate the need for continually sweeping the side of the container with a spatula in order to ensure that food is in the path of the metal blades.

The small processors are particularly useful when you want to make a salad dressing, vinaigrette or a small batch of salt-free mayonnaise. They are equally good for mixing pastes or seasoning rubs for meat, fish or poultry, or processing relatively modest amounts of vegetables.

Compound or flavored butters, which are great to have on hand for a variety of uses, are a snap in small food processors that easily and efficiently mix a tablespoon or two of ingredients into a stick of butter.

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Depending on the way the butter will be flavored, begin with a dry food processor container and ingredients that must be minced or chopped. Small quantities of garlic, a shallot, or a quarter of an onion are dropped into the machine while the metal blade is in motion--the same mincing technique (called continuous processing) used for standard and large-capacity processors.

Quantity Control

Once ingredients are minced or chopped, seasonings such as salt and pepper and acid such as lemon juice (to heighten flavor) are usually added to the machine with 1/4 pound of softened unsalted butter or margarine. Salt is added to the recipe (it can be eliminated) so the quantity can be controlled.

Continuous processing and sweeping the container side once or twice with a spatula, will ensure that ingredients are evenly mixed into the butter. Butters can be used immediately, or wrapped and refrigerated or frozen.

Here are three different compound butters that are great to have on hand for a variety of uses:

Onion-Garlic Butter is a good all-purpose spread that can eliminate the need to chop either ingredient in a pinch and it is especially recommended as a quick sauce for pasta, in soup, sauces or for swirling into pan juices left from sauteed meats or a roast.

Fresh Rosemary Butter is another pungent mixture that has a natural affinity with lamb or veal, with vegetables such as grilled eggplant or zucchini, with tomato-based pasta sauces and in stews. Either of these butters are equally marvelous beaten into risotto at the last moment.

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Flavor-Packed Sauce

The slight sweetness of Chutney Butter makes it great for chicken, roast pork or turkey sandwiches and as a flavoring for vegetables such as asparagus, or yellow squash.

Any of the compound butters can be heated, although their flavors will be tempered. If used for sauteing, the butters tend to break down and care must be taken not to allow delicate ingredients such as garlic, onion or shallots to scorch or burn.

ONION-GARLIC BUTTER

2 medium cloves garlic

1/4 medium onion

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 pound softened unsalted butter

Insert metal blade in dry food processor. Mince garlic and onion by adding to machine with motor running. Add lemon juice, salt, pepper and butter and process until thoroughly mixed, stopping as needed to sweep container side with spatula.

Butter may be used immediately. Or, transfer butter to 12-inch long sheet of plastic wrap and roll into 1-inch thick log, about 8-inches long. Refrigerate (up to 3 days) or freeze (up to 3 months). Butter may be used chilled or at room temperature. Makes 1/4 pound.

FRESH ROSEMARY BUTTER

1/4 medium onion

2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary leaves

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Several dashes hot pepper sauce, optional

1/4 pound softened unsalted butter

Insert metal blade in dry food processor. Mince onion by adding to machine with motor running. Add rosemary, salt, pepper, lemon juice, hot pepper sauce and butter. Process until thoroughly mixed, stopping as needed to sweep container side with spatula.

Butter may be used immediately. Or, transfer butter to 12-inch long sheet of plastic wrap and roll into 1-inch thick log, about 8-inches long. Refrigerate (up to 3 days) or freeze (up to 3 months). Butter may be used chilled or at room temperature. Makes 1/4 pound.

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CHUTNEY BUTTER

1 medium shallot, peeled

1 1/2 tablespoons mango chutney

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 pound softened unsalted butter

Insert metal blade in dry food processor. Mince shallot by adding to machine with motor running. Add chutney, salt, pepper and butter and process until ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stopping several times to sweep container side with spatula.

Butter may be used immediately. Or, transfer butter to 12-inch long sheet of plastic wrap and roll into 1-inch thick log, about 8-inches long. Refrigerate (up to 3 days) or freeze (up to 3 months). Butter may be used chilled or at room temperature. Makes 1/4 pound.

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