Exotic Port Antonio Still the Essence of Jamaica

It started right here with dock workers singing, “Hey, mister tallyman, tally me bananas, daylight comin’ and I wanna go home,” as banana boats sailed off to London, Boston and other ports.

Then somebody got the bright idea that it wasn’t economical to have all those boats bob home empty. Why not bring back a few tourists in the hold and see if the dollars, pounds and other currencies would follow?

They did. And before long Jamaica became the preferred sun-soaked paradise of the Caribbean, a place to head when leaden skies and bone-chilling winds made denizens of such climes think of Harry Belafonte’s songs of the lush and balmy life.

An Old Style

Then, as island resorts sprang into bloom like tropical flowers, a most unlikely thing happened.

Port Antonio, where it began, saw fit to hang onto its old ways, remaining the island’s most beautiful port in a landfall of fern trees, breadfruit, palms, orchids and other exotica.

Port Antonio wasn’t exactly dead in the water during the last several decades. It spruced up a bit with luxury hotels that blend into the tropical setting, cottage colonies and villas, plus most of the comforts and amenities you’ll find at resort centers farther west along the northern coast.

But mainly, the town has remained the essence of Jamaica, where “higglers” in the market beat any hotel’s programmed entertainment, and the best and spiciest jerk pork on the island is sold from roadside pits just outside town.

Here to there: Air Jamaica flies nonstop to Kingston or Montego Bay. From there it’s a short hop with the same line to Port Antonio. Eastern and Continental will also get you to Kingston with changes.

How long/how much? Three or four days will do it, but if you give it a week you’ll be totally relaxed. You’ll find a moderate-to-expensive range in lodging prices, some really cheap. Dining is always reasonable.

Rain in May, October

A few fast facts: Our dollar recently bought 5.5 of Jamaica’s, making theirs worth 18 cents. May and October may bring a bit of rain but the rest of the year is gorgeous. And there’s a departure tax of $40 Jamaican.

Getting settled in: Bonnie View (on hill above town; $58 double in winter, $51 May through December) has the best view in Port Antonio, making you realize why locals say that after God created this town, he retired.

Run by an extremely affable Jamaican, the modest but cheerful rooms are furnished simply, each with a balcony to take the place of air conditioning; baths with showers only. The Blue Mountains frame a pleasant pool and outdoor bar. The very good restaurant serves both Jamaican and continental fare on that terrace overlooking the world.

DeMontevin Lodge (21 Ft. George St.; $46 double, $36 sharing bath) is a Georgian house with a distinct grandmotherly feel, the downstairs parlor a medley of unmatched furnishings, some covered with plastic, but fine old tiles and an attractive wooden staircase. Bedrooms are old-fashioned and simple, some with good views of town. The place is famous for great Jamaican food, prepared by Errol Flynn’s former cook.

Fern Hill Club (on hill above town; $75-$95 double) is a delightful place on 40 acres of rolling tropical land. Most people love it so much that they stay for a week, taking advantage of excellent package deals that include meals, wine and drinks, live entertainment, tennis, windsurfing and a multitude of other perks at reasonable rates. Open dining room of white- wicker furniture covered with sky-blue fabric, a lovely pool and private beach. It’s a Canadian-owned place of great friendliness.

Jerk Pork

Regional food and drink: Jerk pork is to Jamaica what hot dogs are back home, and it goes like this: Marinate the pork overnight in a mix of allspice, onions, garlic, lots of pepper and nutmeg. Place in a charcoal pit on a grid made of allspice wood, cover with allspice leaves and cook 8 to 11 hours.

It’s always eaten with breadfruit or hard-dough bread, and usually served on a suitably greasy piece of butcher’s paper or newsprint. Let’s just say that with jerk pork, you’ve got a hunk of heaven in your hand.

Akee, a bland tropical fruit native to Africa, loses it blandness when it’s boiled and blended with onions, pepper and salt cod. This is a favorite Sunday breakfast that may take two weeks to get used to. We much prefer the curried goat with rice, or the marvelous peppered shrimp. Good seafood is always available.

Most Jamaicans seem to prefer their glorious rums with Ting, a bottled soft drink of grapefruit. Jamaica’s marvelous Appleton rum deserves much better.

Moderate-cost dining: Blue Lagoon (on Blue Lagoon) sits beside one of the beauty spots of the area, a casual and informal place with wooden tables and chairs and a funky old bamboo bar.

But at night it’s incredibly romantic, with soft lights on the water and balmy, tropical-scented breezes. A blackboard menu lists dishes such as codfish fritters, curried mutton, jerk chicken and steamed fish, the last most expensive at $10 with all the fixings. If it’s on the board, down a bowl of delicious crayfish and conch soup.

Tin-Roofed Eatery

Frontline Number One is the real or imagined name of one of the five tin-roofed jerk pork stands in the hamlet of Boston Bay, referred to locally as a “five-jerk town.”

You’ll find the above and two others at a crossroad near Boston Beach, so take your choice of jerk pork, chicken or fish. You can’t go wrong on any of these places, all in the town where this African specialty was first cooked by slaves.

DeMontevin Lodge dining room is the one place in town where you can never just walk in without a reservation. Celebrities and garden-variety visitors dine together at family-style tables with yellow plastic place mats, the plates loaded with superb local specialties.

Your meal price is determined by the main course: $6.25 for the curried goat to $12.75 for lobster. But you’ll also down pumpkin or pepper-pot soup, hot homemade rolls, baked plantain, callaloo salad and homemade coconut pie, bread pudding or ice cream for the all-included price.

Going first-class: If we get a choice for the hereafter it could very well be Trident Villas & Hotel ($130-$180 double suite summers, $300-$390 with two meals mid-December until April). This sparkling-white collection of island architecture covers a promontory curving into the bay, its grounds crowned by a pool and pergola of great style at water’s edge.

Suites Have Art, Patios

No two suites are alike. All are gloriously appointed, with enormous beds, flowering plants, excellent art and private patio. The dining room has Baccarat lamps and silver serving plates on each table.

A five-course meal worthy of a fine continental restaurant is offered every evening. There’s a small private beach, tennis courts, proud peacocks preening about and a very proper daily afternoon tea.

Admiralty Club (Navy Island; $75-$85 B&B; double, $115-$135 studio villas, depending upon season) is a five-minute boat ride from the main island, a 64-acre resort and marina of considerable charm. The studio villas are sheer delight, with ceiling fans, mosquito nets, wooden louvered doors opening to the porch and scenery beyond. And the dining room served the best lobster salad in memory.

On your own: Rafting on the Rio Grande River is one of the most exciting things to do here, Somerset Falls near Rafter Rest a particularly idyllic spot along the way. Blue Lagoon is a special destination for swimmers and divers.

But the colorful market is the most atmospheric place in town, filled with every fruit, vegetable and handicraft of eastern Jamaica. You’ll also see lots of “Irish moss” for sale. Ask the higgler what this stuff will do for your libido and feel free to believe the rather startling answer you’re sure to get.

For more information: Call the Jamaica Tourist Board at (213) 384-1123, or write (3440 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1207, Los Angeles 90010) for a brochure on Port Antonio, another on all of Jamaica and a hotel listing if you request it. Ask for the Port Antonio package.