Treks on Tracks

They haven’t written a song about Amtrak yet--no “Atcheson Topeka,” no “Chattanooga Choo-Choo”--nor do the Los Angeles-San Diego trains inspire the affection, the sheer joy of travel, that the old steam engines did. Still, for many it beats the freeways.

Southern Californians in increasing numbers are discovering the fun and convenience of Amtrak, finding the line’s eight daily round trips between Los Angeles and San Diego a handy, relaxing and hassle-free way to enjoy one-day trips.

They are taking the train to the beach, to baseball games, to the zoo, to horse races and to some of the region’s historic sites. They travel alone, as families, in organized groups, even as bikers--pedaling to San Diego, then checking their bikes as baggage and riding home in comfort.

In 1987, nearly 1.5 million rode the San Diegan, an increase of 85,000 over 1986. In the first five months of 1988 alone, said Arthur Lloyd, director of public affairs for Amtrak’s Western region, more than 1 million people rode the line.

Train ridership in general is “increasing by leaps and bounds,” Lloyd said, “because of freeway gridlock.”

Separate weekend travel figures are unavailable, but any conductor will tell you how busy Saturdays, Sundays and holiday weekends are on the San Diegan, the second busiest route in the country (after the Washington-Boston “Northeast Corridor” route).

Many riders find that getting there is half the fun. From Los Angeles to Fullerton, train windows reveal a panorama of factories, industrial parks and houses.

In Anaheim, the depot is at Anaheim Stadium, while the San Juan Capistrano depot is made from old train cars joined together. Much of the route from San Clemente south is along the ocean and provides a different view than can be seen from the highway.

The scenery, coupled with a little creative planning, can provide an entertaining day trip. Be flexible: Don’t lock yourself into a schedule requiring clockwork timing because the mechanics and logistics of train travel often lead to delays.

“It’s one way of getting through Orange County at better than 25 m.p.h.,” said Bob Wheatly, a retired Fullerton chemist who rides the San Diegan for Sierra Club outings to Torrey Pines State Reserve, 5 miles south of the Del Mar depot.

“And it provides a sort of camaraderie rather than everyone riding down separately. It’s very comfortable and fast. You don’t have to drive home after a hard day’s hike.”

Hikers can get off the train at Del Mar and walk through the reserve and into La Jolla. Then they can board a bus for San Diego, stop for dinner and take the San Diegan back north.

Baseball, not hiking, was on the minds of Rob Euseebio, a Laguna Hills medical technologist, and his roommate one recent Sunday. The Dodgers were playing the Padres in San Diego and the train seemed a logical alternative to the Sunday traffic they dreaded.

They boarded the train at San Juan Capistrano before 8 a.m., relaxed, read a newspaper and arrived in San Diego 90 minutes later. After a San Diego Trolley ride to the Omni San Diego Hotel for brunch, they took an express bus to San Diego Jack Murphy Stadium, watched the game and were back in San Juan Capistrano at 6:15 p.m., only a few minutes from home.

Chance to Meet People

Veteran train traveler Eloise Montgomery of Fullerton finds the opportunity to meet and talk with people a major attraction of train travel. The key, she said, is to be friendly and not “snooty.”

On one trip, she met a man from Zanzibar. On another, she made friends with a man and his son from Germany and served as a translator when they all arrived in Tijuana.

Montgomery is initiating her grandchildren with day trips to San Diego, and one recent Friday was taking granddaughter Landis Airo, 9, of San Marino, to the San Diego Zoo.

The San Diego Zoo is a popular destination, but there’s also the Santa Ana Zoo, where Tom and Dina Jones recently took son Matthew. It was a toss-up which Matthew liked better, the train ride or the zoo.

Veteran of Many Treks

With any luck, you might meet Chris Ferguson, a 28-year-old Orange County contractor who says he has logged 544,000 miles on American trains.

On a recent Saturday, Ferguson was taking the San Diegan into Los Angeles for a journey to Hood River, Ore., and a ride on the newly launched Mt. Hood Railroad.

“I took my first train ride when I was 11, from Fullerton to San Clemente to go to the beach with some friends, and I’ve been hooked ever since,” Ferguson said.

For the Volz family of Temecula--Johanne; son Gary, 8; daughter Tracy, 4, and Johanne Volz’s mother, Johanne Hardi of Anaheim--the train provided a grand Saturday family outing.

First Time on a Train

“We decided to take the trip because we’d never been on a train before,” Volz said. The family boarded a northbound train at Oceanside and were joined by Hardi at Anaheim. They toured Olvera Street and the Los Angeles Children’s Museum, then rode back to Anaheim for a family dinner. Volz and her children took a later train for Oceanside.

Though weekend trains can be crowded, most people accept the occasional shortage of seats with good humor, said David Arthur, an assistant conductor.

“All you can do is tell them like it is,” conductor Gary Bowler said. “All they pay for is a train ride.” Arthur suggested midday travel as the best way to avoid crowds, and warned that the 4:45 p.m. train out of San Diego is sometimes standing room only.

He also said Custom Class car seating, when available, is worth the additional $10 round-trip fare. Custom Class, limited to one car per train, is the only reserved seating on the route and provides more leg room, foot rests and free coffee or tea. (Alcoholic beverages and soft drinks are sold in every class.)

Fares and Bargains

Coach round-trip fare Los Angeles-San Diego is $29 Monday through Thursday and $44 Friday through Sunday. The best bargain is the family plan, with the first adult full price, spouse and children 12 to 21 half-price and children younger than 12, $11. Information: (800) USA-RAIL.

Depots between Los Angeles and San Diego are in Fullerton, Anaheim, Santa Ana, San Juan Capistrano, San Clemente (only twice a day each way), Oceanside and Del Mar. The trip from Los Angeles to San Diego takes about 2 1/2 hours. Here are a few trip suggestions:

San Juan Capistrano: Almost everything is within walking distance of the depot, including the historic Mission San Juan Capistrano, $2 adults and $1 children 6 through 11.

San Juan Capistrano has many antique stores, galleries and shops specializing in American Indian art, and a wide variety of restaurants, including a restaurant/saloon in the depot featuring jazz groups Sunday afternoons.

San Clemente: The train stops right in front of San Clemente State Beach, which has picnic tables and a playground, and near the 1,200-foot San Clemente Municipal Pier, which has a restaurant and tackle shop.

Del Mar: Racing season continues through Sept. 14. A shuttle from the track meets the southbound trains arriving at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. and the two late-afternoon northbound trains.

Or go in style on the Del Mar Dinner Train, which runs weekends through Sept. 11, leaving Los Angeles at 10:45 a.m. and departing Del Mar at 7:17 p.m. This private car seats only 36; the $89.95 charge includes round trip between Los Angeles or Fullerton and Del Mar, cocktail service and hors d’oeuvre, transportation to and from the track, race track admission, musical entertainment and a complete dinner. Contact Classic Rail Travel Co., P.O. Box 2541, Orange 92669.

Torrey Pines State Reserve, about five miles south of the depot, is open from 9 a.m. to sunset. Pedestrians and bicyclists enter free. Bus service available.

San Diego: The city has all types of attractions, and public transportation is plentiful. You can even buy a Day Tripper Transit Pass--$3 each for one day--and ride buses, the San Diego Trolley and the San Diego Bay Ferry as much as you like. The pass may be purchased by mail or in person at the Transit Store, 449 Broadway, San Diego 92101.

Suggested destinations include the historic Gaslamp Quarter; Horton Plaza, designed with the feel of an open-air European market; Balboa Park, which has the famed San Diego Zoo and 10 museums; Sea World; Old Town, commemorating the first permanent California settlement, and San Diego Jack Murphy Stadium.

Los Angeles: The Los Angeles Children’s Museum and Olvera Street are within easy walking distance of Union Station. Dodger Stadium is a short bus ride away.

Olvera Street is one of the oldest streets in Los Angeles, attracting 2 million visitors each year to shop and dine on Mexican cuisine. Part of El Pueblo de Los Angeles State Historic Park is on Olvera Street, and the rest is close by. Coming events include a celebration of the founding of Los Angeles, Sept. 3, and Mexican Independence Day, Sept. 16-18.

Los Angeles Children’s Museum, 310 N. Main St., is open 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Admission is $4. Children younger than 2 are free. Information: (213) 687-8800.