Skiing for Non-Experts

The trouble with most stories about ski areas is that they’re written by expert skiers: people who schuss down black runs without a moment of hesitation or go heli-skiing in virgin terrain.

Not this skier. I don’t believe I enjoy the sport any less, but for me the primary reason for checking a trail map is to be certain that the run about to be skied is designated either green or blue.

Finding such beginning and intermediate runs is no problem at Keystone Resort, 70 miles west of Denver through the Eisenhower Memorial tunnel. This resort has three ski areas--Keystone Mountain, North Peak and Arapahoe Basin, each offering its own appeal.

Of the 500 skiable acres at Keystone Mountain, 65% are designated intermediate and another 20% beginner. The longest run, Schoolmarm, winds down 3.2 miles from the 11,640-foot summit and is designated green the entire way. All the runs are marked with giant banners in the designated color and the name printed in huge white letters, making it easy to find your way around.

Manufactured Snow

Even though the area averages 200 inches of snowfall annually, all of Keystone Mountain is covered by a snow-making system. This results in a combination of natural and man-made snow covering the wide, well-groomed runs. Most years it also enables the mountain to open the season by Oct. 16 and offer skiing through late spring.

Thirteen of the runs are illuminated for skiing until 10 p.m. each evening. Access is provided by a 10-minute ride on an enclosed gondola. Having never tried night skiing, I didn’t know quite what to expect, but under the high-pressure sodium lights, on a clear night under the stars, I found it exhilarating.

Novices can learn the basics on an area of Keystone Mountain called Checkerboard Flats, served by its own chair and poma lifts.

Another portion of the mountain, Pack Saddle Bowl, is open only to children. Group and private ski lessons are available for all ages and experience levels. Prices run from $25 for a 2 1/2-hour group lesson to $250 for seven hours of private instruction. The resort is also home to the Mahre Training Centers, nine sessions between November and June that include coaching by world and Olympic champions Phil and Steve Mahre.

Two base areas serve Keystone Mountain, the larger of which resembles a small village. At each entrance there’s a ski check where skis and poles can be left at no charge during the day if you stop for lunch or a break, or for $1 overnight. At Mountain House in the middle of the village are small lockers to store personal items.

Other buildings house lift ticket sales, ski rental and repairs, a ski school, shops, restaurants and the children’s center. This center offers non-skiing care for children 2 months to 5 years. Skiing instruction is available for 3- and 4-year-olds as well as for children 5 to 12. Evening baby-sitting is offered at the center as well as in individual lodgings.

A Challenging Peak

At the smaller base area, River Run Plaza, you’ll find the gondola station, lift ticket sales, ski rentals, a ski school, ski check, Pinebridge Cafe, Freewater Saloon and a couple of shops. This area can be reached either by shuttle bus or ski runs.

Off the back of Keystone Mountain is the more challenging North Peak. It has no beginner runs, but 22% are designated intermediate.

From the summit of Keystone Mountain you ski down the blue run called Mozart to the Santiago chairlift. It takes you to the 11,660-foot summit of North Peak. The Starfire and Last Alamo runs from the top are intermediate, but the rest of this mountain is designated expert and noted for its huge moguls (truly the size of Volkswagens). Half of North Peak’s terrain is covered with snowmaking capabilities. Access back to Keystone Mountain is via the Ruby chairlift.

Arapahoe Basin is a totally separate ski area reached by shuttle buses that leave Keystone Mountain every 20 minutes. It’s about a 15-minute drive through spectacular terrain to above timberline, an all-natural snow area on the Continental Divide.

This is definitely the most challenging of the three ski areas, although 50% of the mountain is designated intermediate, with blue runs starting from the 12,450-foot summit.

Although only 10% of the mountain is rated beginner, the Dercum’s Gulch run begins just below the top and ties into several other green runs to wind back down to the Exhibition triple chairlift.

Even after five days at Keystone we had only begun to enjoy its offerings. Besides downhill skiing, about 17 miles of trails are available for cross-country skiing around the resort. In addition, there are about 30 miles of back-country skiing trails. The Keystone Cross-Country Center rents equipment and offers lessons.

Keystone Village has three levels of shops and restaurants built around a large outdoor ice skating rink. Bring your own skates or rent them for $2.50 a session (10 a.m. to 5 p.m. or 6 to 10 p.m.). Lessons are available.

Apres-Ski Activities

Sleigh rides and snowmobiling are other outdoor activities offered. There’s also an indoor tennis and fitness center and 11 swimming, sauna and whirlpool facilities. You’ll find apres-ski and evening entertainment at several bars and lounges in the village and surrounding area.

At the 30 or so restaurants in town you can enjoy everything from light snacks to continental dining.

Start the day with a breakfast of Belgian waffles at Alpentop Deli, Restaurant and Bakery, or the buffet at Edgewater Cafe, both in Keystone Village. On sunny days, Bentley’s, overlooking the ice skating rink, is a good place for lunch if you’re not on the slopes. Otherwise try Summit House at the top of Keystone Mountain, or Gassy’s in the Mountain House.

For dinner, the Last Chance Saloon in Keystone Village makes pizzas with homemade dough. The Navigator, also in the village, specializes in seafood. In the Keystone Lodge the Garden Room is known for its continental dining and elaborate champagne brunch on Sundays, while the Bighorn Steakhouse specializes in prime rib, a 28-item salad bar and freshly baked breads.

Accommodations at Keystone Resort include Keystone Lodge, a 152-room, full-service luxury hotel, plus condominiums from studio to four bedrooms, and private homes. Rates reflect size, location and amenities; expect to pay from $130 a night, single occupancy, in the lodge to $550 in a four-bedroom premium condominium or private home that accommodates eight. Complimentary shuttle-bus service provides transportation throughout the resort area.

A variety of packages are available that include lodging and lift tickets. Airport shuttle service is included with five-night or longer packages, and some packages include a rental car. Prices from $285 to $770 per adult (based on four people in a two-bedroom, two-bath condominium).

For more information on travel to Colorado ski areas, contact the Colorado Tourism Board, 1625 Broadway, Suite 1700, Denver, Colo. 80202, or call toll-free (800) 255-5550.