EAST WEST : The twain are meeting on the table, a trend of grwoing importance

American cuisine is acquiring an Asian accent. So pronounced is this trend that serious foodies are holding conclaves to learn more about the new tastes that are flourishing on the eastern edge of the Pacific Rim.

The first such meet, an East-West Culinary Summit, took place in August at the Silverado Country Club in the Napa Valley. Beringer Vineyards was the sponsor. Coming up next is an East-West Culinary Celebration Jan. 6-9 at the Stouffer Waiohai Beach Resort on the island of Kauai.

On Feb. 3, a panel will discuss “The Pacific and Beyond” at the International Food Media Conference at the Biltmore hotel in Los Angeles.

Beringer’s summit brought together an august collection of Asian and American chefs, cookbook authors, journalists and attendees from as far as Switzerland and Japan. The participants drank $200-a-bottle sake, ate rice from lotus leaves, nibbled on Cambodian satay and listened to presentations that grew heated when purists attacked freewheeling blends of Eastern ideas with Western food.

“Oftentimes, experimenting with a new idiom means a shallowness,” said Barbara Tropp, chef-owner of China Moon Cafe in San Francisco. “For me, a lot of East-West cooking is hard to swallow. It doesn’t taste good.” A China scholar and historian as well as a chef, Tropp is the author of “The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking.”

Others defended East-West blends. “I don’t think any of this, except the most extreme, is a passing fad,” said Marian Burros, New York Times food writer whose address on East-West trends opened the summit.

Far from being faddish, East-West cookery goes back centuries, with Western nations supplying ideas to the East rather than the reverse. Elizabeth Andoh, a specialist in Japanese food and culture, pointed out that the Portuguese introduced Japan to a method of batter-coating and frying fish that paved the way for tempura. This happened in the 17th Century. The Portuguese, who came as missionaries and traders, also taught the Japanese to bake and provided the word pao, which the Japanese pronounce as pan and apply to bread. Andoh, of New York, is executive director of the Associated Japan-America Societies and has written several cookbooks including “An Ocean of Flavor; The Japanese Way with Fish and Seafood,” published this year.

Proponents of Asian innovation included Karen Lee of New York, whose recent book, “Chinese Nouvelle Cuisine,” presents a contemporary blend of French and Chinese food, and Hugh Carpenter of Toluca Lake, author of “Pacific Flavors.”

“It’s new and exciting,” Lee said, speaking of what she calls chinois cooking. The use of the French word chinois instead of Chinese is apt because Lee attended French schools in New York and Canada, speaks the language fluently and combines French and Chinese techniques in such dishes as Sichuan Style Steak au Poivre. Lee said this sort of cookery might not please traditionalists: “If you served a Chinese person a chinois meal, they would really raise their left eyebrow.”

Carpenter took an iconoclastic stance. “Wok cooking is a heresy in this country and should never be done,” he said, going so far as to suggest that his listeners toss their woks into San Francisco Bay. Rather than advocating metallic litter, Carpenter was simply attempting to startle the audience out of post-lunch lethargy. What he meant is that Americans should not feel bound by authenticity when blending Asian dishes and ingredients into their menus.

“I don’t think you need to have any classical training in order to cook wonderful food at home. Imagination, courage and a sense of good taste are more important,” he said.

The lunch that had lulled Carpenter’s audience summed up the conference content in dramatic fashion. It started with a cooking demonstration that teamed such implements as a wok, food processor and French duck press. Manipulating these were chefs from the East and West and one who put the twain together.

Koichiro Hata, head of Japanese cookery at the Ecole Technique Hoteliere Tsuji in Osaka, Japan, carved a fragile cucumber net, made clam soup and ran through the preparation of yellowtail teriyaki. Hubert Keller of Fleur de Lys restaurant in San Francisco demonstrated classic French pressed duck. And Yoshi Katsumura of Yoshi’s Cafe in Chicago produced a complicated dish of salmon rolls, layering the fish with nori, lobster and scallop mousses and spinach pasta. After steaming, the rolls were sliced, garnished with chervil leaves and salmon caviar and arranged around buckwheat noodles placed on shiso leaves. A lobster butter sauce finished the dish.

Sake at $200 a Magnum

Lunch included Hata’s miso soup with pork and vegetables, the yellowtail teriyaki and a red bean paste dessert, mizu-yokan. Representing the West, Keller presented Maine lobster mousseline on black chanterelles and flageolets with a lime sauce. He also prepared a caramelized pear tart. Katsumura contributed the ornate East-West salmon rolls and a delicate cheesecake flavored with homemade candied ginger.

These were accompanied by a parade of Beringer wines and chilled, fruity Hou-Zui brand Jun-Mai Ginjo-Shu sake that cost $200 a magnum. Tor Kenward, Beringer’s vice president of winery communications, said that he felt Western style wines did not harmonize with spicy, traditional Asian dishes but would go well with the “fusion” cuisines.

Lunch had barely settled when participants left the summit site for Beringer headquarters in St. Helena and a sumptuous reception and outdoor dinner. Guest chefs dispensed appetizers ranging from Barbara Tropp’s cold noodle rolls to Chinese jade dumplings of Maine lobster with lobster- and mushroom-flavored soy sauce, prepared by David SooHoo of Chinois East-West in Sacramento.

Dinner started with Cambodian style chicken, pineapple and red curry soup (Keith and Joanna Dan of Angkor Wat in San Francisco) and went on to soft shell crab coated with Japanese style bread crumbs (panko) and served with black bean and clam sauce (David SooHoo); steamed Mongolian spiced lamb with carrots and turnips (Michael Foley of Foley’s in Chicago); rice mixed with sausages, pistachios and vegetables and steamed in lotus leaves (Martin Yan of the Yan Can International cookery school in Foster City); a Thai salad (yam) that featured Muscovy duck and included Belgian endive (Bruce LeFavour); and, for dessert, an assortment of pureed fruits (Udo Nechutnys of Miramonte Restaurant and Country Inn in St. Helena) and Karen Lee’s won ton cannoli.

Strange Flavor Eggplant

The following dishes were either tasted or discussed at the summit. Barbara Tropp’s Strange Flavor Eggplant was served in a session on matching Asian dishes with beverages. Participants had their choice of sparkling and still wines, domestic and imported beers, sake, plum wine and water to try with the eggplant, Vietnamese spring rolls, natto miso, buckwheat noodles with wasabi and, for a Western touch, John Sedlar’s Navajo painted tortilla with fiery red chili and apricot preserve.

Sedlar, of Saint Estephe in Manhattan Beach, was one of several panel speakers. Although known for innovative French-New Mexican food, Sedlar is also delving into Asian concepts. In 1987, he presented a modern Southwestern menu at a restaurant in Hong Kong. Upon his return, he composed a Chinese-Southwestern menu for Saint Estephe that included such dishes as Peking duck tamale, branded Hong Kong seafood enchilada and Shanghai won ton stuffed with gazpacho and served in a bowl of pinto beans.

Karen Lee’s Sichuan Steak au Poivre is an interesting combination of Asian and Western touches. Coated with crushed green peppercorns and Sichuan peppercorn powder, the steak is sauteed in a wok, then roasted, sliced and served with a sauce based on such disparate ingredients as hoisin sauce, balsamic vinegar, sherry, whipping cream and miso . The recipe is from “Nouvelle Chinese Cooking.”

Martin Yan’s unusual rice dish drew an enthusiastic reaction. Yan, host of TV’s “Yan Can Cook,” appeared at the summit on behalf of the Rice Growers Assn. of California.

As he prepared yellowtail teriyaki, Koichiro Hata explained that adding sake tenderizes the fish and eliminates any fishy smell. Salting is another way to counteract fishiness, he said. The recipe appears in his book, “Practical Japanese Cooking: Easy & Elegant.” Hata also provided the recipe for his miso soup, which is spicier than the style usually encountered in Japanese restaurants in the United States.

A standout among the desserts was Yoshi Katsumura’s Candied Ginger Cheesecake, a cloud-like contrast to the typical dense American cheesecake. Katsumura was born in Ibaraki, Japan, and apprenticed at French restaurants in Tokyo before coming to the United States.

STRANGE FLAVOR EGGPLANT

Barbara Tropp

1 1/4 pounds firm eggplant, Oriental eggplant preferred

2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons light brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon unseasoned rice vinegar

1 tablespoon hot water

2 tablespoons corn or peanut oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced ginger root

3 tablespoons chopped green onions

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed dried chiles, rounded

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 tablespoon green onion rings

Tear off leaves, rinse eggplant and pat dry. Pierce in several places with fork. Place on baking sheet on middle rack of oven and bake at 475 degrees 20 to 40 minutes, depending on size. Turn over half way through cooking. Eggplant is done when it gives easily when pressed with chopstick or spoon. Cool eggplant, remove stem and peel. Puree in food processor.

Combine soy sauce, brown sugar, vinegar and water, stirring to dissolve sugar. Heat wok or heavy medium skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate bead of water on contact. Add corn oil, swirl to glaze pan, then lower heat to medium. Add garlic, ginger and green onions, then crushed chiles. Stir until fully fragrant, 20 to 40 seconds, adjusting heat so seasonings foam without browning. Add soy sauce mixture. Stir until liquid boils around edges, then add eggplant and stir to combine and heat through. Turn off heat and taste for seasoning, then add sesame oil and stir to combine. Serve hot, warm or chilled, garnished with green onion rings. Makes about 2 cups.

Note: Use larger amounts of soy sauce and brown sugar if using Western eggplant.

MISO SOUP WITH PORK AND VEGETABLES

Koichiro Hata

6 ounces boneless pork loin

1/2 cup canned bamboo shoots

2 stalks asparagus, trimmed

1/2 medium carrot

2 tablespoons oil

4 fresh shiitake mushrooms, washed, stemmed and sliced, or 4 brown mushrooms, washed, trimmed and sliced

3 1/3 cups homemade or instant dashi (Japanese style soup stock)

6 tablespoons nonsweet white miso

2 green onions, slivered diagonally

Shichimi (7-spice pepper) or cayenne or black pepper

Slice pork as thin as possible and cut into 1x1/2-inch strips. Wash bamboo shoots well and scrub away any white residue. Place in saucepan. Cover generously with water and bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and boil 5 minutes. Drain and place in pan of cold water. When cool, drain and cut into 1 1/2-inch long julienne strips. Cut asparagus and carrot into same size strips.

Heat oil in 2-quart saucepan over high heat. Add pork and stir-fry briefly until white. Add asparagus, carrot, bamboo shoots and mushrooms and stir-fry until vegetables are just tender. Add dashi and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer 10 minutes, skimming occasionally. Place miso in bowl and thin with 1/2 cup hot broth. Return mixture to saucepan and adjust seasoning. Bring to boil, add green onions and immediately remove from heat. Divide soup among 4 bowls and sprinkle with shichimi just before serving. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Instant dashi is available in Japanese markets.

SICHUAN STEAK AU POIVRE

Karen Lee

1 tablespoon Sichuan Peppercorn Powder

1 tablespoon green peppercorns, crushed

1 1/2 pounds filet mignon tails, trimmed weight (1 or 2 pieces)

3/4 tablespoon dark miso

1 1/2 teaspoons dark soy sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons hoisin sauce

2 tablespoons medium-dry sherry

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3 tablespoons minced shallots

2 teaspoons minced garlic

2 teaspoons minced ginger root

1/4 cup Cognac

1 tablespoon whipping cream

Rub Sichuan Peppercorn Powder and green peppercorns on both sides of filet. Allow to marinate 1 hour. Mix miso, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, sherry and vinegar in small cup and set aside. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place wok over high heat about 1 minute, or until it smokes. Add oil and heat for few seconds. Add steak and saute 5 to 6 minutes. Turn over and saute another 5 to 6 minutes. Keep heat on high unless steak begins to burn. High heat is necessary to achieve crusty exterior. Turn off heat. Remove steak from wok. Place on heat-proof platter and bake 10 minutes.

Drain oil from wok. Place over low heat. Add butter and heat until melted. Add shallots and saute 3 minutes over low heat. Turn heat to high. Add garlic and ginger and stir-fry 1 minute. Restir miso mixture and add to wok all at once, stirring about 30 seconds. Add Cognac and continue to stir for another 1 1/2 minutes. Turn off heat. Add cream and stir briefly.

Slice steak on cutting board. Place steak slices on serving dish in overlapping pattern. Pour juices from steak back into wok containing sauce. Turn heat to low and bring sauce to simmer. Simmer 1 minute. Pour sauce over sliced steak and serve at once. Makes 6 servings.

Sichuan Peppercorn Powder

1 cup Sichuan peppercorns

Place wok over high heat about 1 minute or until it smokes. Add peppercorns. Turn heat to low. Dry-cook 3 minutes, stirring slowly but constantly until peppercorns turn darker brown. Peppercorns will start to smoke before they turn darker. Remove from wok and cool. Grind peppercorns to powder in coffee mill, food processor or blender. Place in glass jar with tight-fitting lid. Makes 1 cup.

YELLOWTAIL TERIYAKI

Kochiro Hata

1 cup mirin

2/3 cup sake

1/2 cup dark soy sauce

3 tablespoons tamari soy sauce

4 (1/2-pound) yellowtail fillets, with skin if possible

Salt

1 tablespoon oil

Combine mirin, sake, dark soy sauce and tamari in saucepan. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer until slightly reduced. Sprinkle fillets with salt and let stand 15 minutes. Wash and pat dry. Marinate in sauce 1 hour. Drain fillets, reserving sauce. To pan fry, heat oil in skillet over medium high heat. Add fillets and cook until golden brown on each side, turning once. When almost done, add 1/3 cup teriyaki sauce and coat well. Fillets may also be grilled. Insert 3 skewers into each fish so that skewers fan out into fish. Grill over medium high gas flame until slightly browned. Turn and grill other side. Just before fish is done, momentarily withdraw from heat, hold over bowl, and pour teriyaki sauce over fish. Makes 4 servings.

Note: If tamari is not available, increase dark soy sauce and mirin by 3 tablespoons each.

RICE IN LOTUS LEAF Martin Yan

4 Oriental dried black mushrooms

1 tablespoon oil

2 shallots, chopped

1 Chinese pork sausage, thinly sliced

1 Chinese pork sausage with liver, thinly sliced

1/4 cup diced carrot

1/4 cup diced celery

1/4 cup shelled whole pistachios

1 teaspoon chopped cilantro

4 pieces blanched Chinese yellow chives, chopped, optional

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 tablespoon sesame oil

3 cups cooked long grain rice

2 large dried lotus leaves

2 sprigs cilantro

Soak mushrooms in warm water to cover 30 minutes. Drain. Cut off stems and discard. Thinly slice caps. Set aside. Heat wok over high heat until hot. Add oil and swirl to coat sides. Add shallots and sausages and stir-fry 2 minutes. Add carrot, celery, pistachios, cilantro, chives and mushrooms and stir-fry 1 minute. Stir in soy sauce, oyster sauce and sesame oil. Stir in rice, separating grains with back of spoon. Mix well. Remove from heat.

Spread 1 lotus leaf on work surface. Cover with second leaf. Place rice mixture in center of top lotus leaf. Fold edges of leaves over rice so rice is completely covered. Place packet on heat-proof dish and set on rack in steamer or wok over boiling water. Cover and steam 30 minutes, adding more water if needed. To serve, cut crosswise at top and peel edges back. Place cilantro sprigs on top of rice. Makes 4 servings.

Note: If lotus leaves are small, divide mixture in half and make 2 smaller packets. Or divide into 4 small packets for individual servings. Parchment paper or foil may be substituted for lotus leaves.

CANDIED GINGER CHEESECAKE

Yoshi Katsumura

22 ounces cream cheese (2 8-ounce and 2 3-ounce packages), softened

1 cup superfine sugar

1 2/3 cups whipping cream

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin

2 tablespoons cold water

1/2 cup lemon juice

Dash orange liqueur

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1/3 cup Candied Ginger

1/2 to 3/4 cup Pate Sucree Crumbs

Creme Anglaise

With food processor running, add cream cheese bit by bit, scraping sides occasionally and processing until completely smooth. Add sugar and process until incorporated. Add whipping cream, scrape down sides of bowl to remove lumps and process until smooth. Soften gelatin in cold water. Heat lemon juice until very hot and add gelatin. Stir until dissolved. Remove from heat and add orange liqueur.

With food processor running, add lemon juice and process until incorporated. Turn into large mixing bowl and add lemon zest and Candied Ginger. Set mixture over ice bath and cool until quite thick. Turn into 9x5-inch loaf pan. Smooth top and sprinkle with Pate Sucree Crumbs, pressing crumbs in to help them adhere. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight. Unmold to serve. Cut cheesecake into slices. Serve each slice ringed with Creme Anglaise. Makes 12 to 15 servings.

Candied Ginger

1 lemon, halved

4 ounces ginger root, peeled and diced

Water

1 cup sugar

Squeeze juice of 1/2 lemon over diced ginger root. Cover with water, add squeezed lemon half and bring to boil. Boil 25 to 30 minutes. Drain, rinse and repeat with remaining lemon half. Drain again. Add 2 cups water and 1 cup sugar to blanched ginger root. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Boil over medium high heat until mixture is reduced by 2/3. Remove from heat and cool.

Pate Sucree Crumbs

5 ounces unsalted butter (10 tablespoons), cut into pieces

1 3/4 cups flour

7 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup ground almonds

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1 egg, well beaten

Let butter stand in warm place until very soft. Combine flour, sugar, almonds and vanilla in mixer bowl. With machine at low speed, beat in butter. Scrape down bowl. Turn to medium, add egg and beat until combined. Dough should be pliable, not sticky. If sticky, add a little flour. If too dry, add 1 tablespoon water. Roll or pat on lightly buttered baking sheet into 11x8-inch rectangle. Bake at 300 degrees 30 minutes, or until golden. Cool completely. Remove from baking sheet. Grind in food processor to fine crumbs. Makes 3 1/3 cups.

Note: Remaining crumbs may be frozen and used in other recipes.

Creme Anglaise

1 1/2 cups milk

5 egg yolks

10 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla

Place milk in saucepan and bring to boil. Whisk together egg yolks, sugar and vanilla. Pour boiled milk over egg mixture, whisking until smooth. Return to saucepan. Cook and stir over high heat until mixture coats spoon. Pour through fine sieve into metal pan. Set in ice bath. Skim off foam. Stir occasionally until cooled. Makes 2 cups.Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane