Braised Fennel : An Herb Recipe That Makes a Good Companion for Fish, Meat and Poultry

THE ANISE-FLAVORED bulbs and seeds of fennel ( Foeniculum vulgare ) , of the parsley family, with feathery fronds that grow up to 6 feet in height, are well known to Mediterranean, British and Asian cooks. Many French cooks employ fennel as a flavoring for soups, sauces and fish, particularly in a dish known as grillade au fenouil , in which dried fennel stems and leaves are placed as a bed for grilled and brandied mullet, sea bass or trout.

In Italy, fennel is used as a complementary herb with pork--particularly with suckling pig and in marinades for wild boar. Cured olives are flavored with feathery fennel fronds or pieces of cut bulb. The crisp stem and bulb is cut into salads or braised to serve with game or other roasted meats. The leaves can be stuffed into oily fish such as mackerel or cod.

When using only the bulbs, save the fronds for flavoring fish and meats. Hang them up to dry, or dry them in the refrigerator or freezer. Peel away or remove any bruised outer layers of the bulbs, and trim the stems before using. The bulbs can be refrigerated for several weeks, in the manner of most hardy root vegetables. Seal them in plastic to preserve the moisture.

In Medieval Europe, fennel was used as a medicinal herb. Fronds served as a display to ward off evil spirits and witches.

I occasionally encounter fresh sweet fennel ( finocchio ) in Italian restaurants, served marinated in salads or braised and covered with tomato sauce. One wintry night, during a visit to Chicago, I attended a party at which roast venison with lingonberry sauce was served with braised fennel bulbs. The large bulbs were quartered, making one or two wedges the perfect portion for the plate. This is the recipe for braised fennel as I remember having had it on that occasion.

BRAISED FENNEL 6 medium fennel bulbs with fronds 1 onion, sliced 1 small clove garlic, minced 1 small carrot, grated Few celery leaves, chopped 1/4 cup butter or olive oil 1 cup white wine 1 sprig thyme Salt, pepper Remove and reserve fennel fronds. Quarter bulbs. Saute onion, garlic, carrot and celery leaves in butter. Add fennel quarters and saute until glazed. Add wine, thyme sprig and salt and pepper. Bring to boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer until fennel is tender, about 15 min-utes. Discard thyme sprig. Serve with game, if desired. Makes 6 servings.

Food styled by Norman Stewart; prop styling by Barbara Thornburg; props courtesy of Tesoro Collection, Ltd.