The Search for LA’s Thai Cuisine Pioneers

An irate letter came to my desk protesting a story I had done on the Thai restaurant, Tommy Tang, which praised Tang for his pioneering role in the Thai restaurant scene in Los Angeles.

“Why not us?” asked a letter from the Siamese Princess, which has been a Los Angeles landmark on 3rd Street since 1982 and before that on Melrose and Highland since 1976.

Why not, indeed? Like Tang, Siamese Princess has also made its individual mark. The restaurant, unlike most Thai restaurants, bears a definite signature unique only to Victor Sodsook, who learned cooking from his mother in Bangkok, and his British counterpart, Chris Chapman, a former cruise director for Princess Cruises (hence the name). Their concerned presences are always felt, their attention to detail is apparent, their sincerity and honesty in what is offered is unmistakable. You feel at Siamese Princess that you are actually getting your money’s worth and more.

Like Tang, the food, too, is unique to Sodsook, who brings a cuisine that is far more interesting and far more elegant than many of the Thai mom and pop eateries one encounters in Los Angeles.

Presentations are beautiful, the food fresh and good, if variable in consistency. But who’s quibbling? You can hardly go wrong with any of the dishes ordered, as they have passed the test of time by hordes of previous Siamese Princess customers, whose caliber and numbers are documented on the walls. We like the idea that Tina Turner once dined there.

All right, so now that we know where we stand, let’s put down the brass knuckles and get down to brass tacks.

Picture yourself in the drawing room at some faraway exotic colony at the height of British Empire glory. Bangkok, maybe, at the turn of the century. There is a bit of musty-dustiness in the air still, the kind British live with so comfortably. Threadbare elegance.

A superb English burled Queen Anne dresser, a third-rate portrait of the late Thai royalty, Hollywood head shots of celebrities who have graced the doors of Siamese Princess, mounted magazine pages of Princess Di and the Prince, an 18th-Century portrait of a grand manor dame, a dark oil painting of father somebody, whom, you think will imminently roll his eyes behind cutouts, the way they do in comedic haunted house movies.

The place is literally crammed with stuff like that; the good side by side with the so-so, Queen Anne chairs mingling with Breuer, plus some spectacular gold lame Siamese headdresses, which will go on sale in Sodsook’s soon-to-be-opened gift shop. And with the holiday season, there is an extra fussy-mussy enveloping coziness with be-ribboned garlands of pine branches, as in picture book fairy tale forests.

A gorgeous chinoiserie porcelain platter arrives at your table laden with a beautifully arranged pineapple half, fronds intact, stuffed with an exotic pineapple and shrimp rice dish. Almost too beautiful to touch. But you do, of course, and it’s quite good. Sodsook uses lots of lettuce leaves and fashions hot red peppers into lilies you can, but shouldn’t, eat, as garnish. Very pretty. The beef satay, which is the first item on the appetizer menu, was good, as good as any, but not spectacular.

The hot and sour soup and the coconut soups, on the other hand, were truly grand. Served in beautiful Onion-pattern, footed porcelain bowls, they were works of art.

I had a three-flavor curry made uniquely with beef, chicken and pork, stuffed in yams, then powdered with tapioca and nuts and deep fried. A lovely dish for only $13.95.

The barbecued chicken ordered by someone who isn’t crazy about anything but good old American meat and potatoes, was, according to the diner, “excellent.” It, too, had a rather sweetish taste running through it. The royal green curry, made with coconut milk, green beans, shiitake and eggplant was a red-hot number, which in Bangkok is sold as street food, usually wrapped in Indian chapati. Sodsook said he will introduce that version at the next menu round. Just tell the waiters, who are exceptionally courteous, willing and able, by the way, how hot you want your food and it will be done.

The menu features a group of noodles, which we did not try during this last visit, but did on previous occasions. The mee krob, as I recall was very decent, as was the pad Thai. There are a group of royal Thai specialties, such as a Bangkok-style Sichuan asparagus, a sweet pepper curry, marinated duck salad and prawns in spicy orange sauce, among them.

Sodsook takes credit for being the first to introduce the stuffed chicken wings found in just about every Thai restaurant these days and they are quite good, at three per order.

Our dessert was an espresso, lacking the inspiration to try the ice cream or pastry tray offered, but there are Thai coffees and teas for those who are determined to stick to a Thai menu to the bitter end.

And if you want to take home the peanut butter sauce or creamy salad dressing, they are offered by the 16-ounce jar for $6.95 and $5.95, respectively, a rather interesting Christmas house gift to consider for friends, if you are so inclined.

Speak up and you will be guided on how to order dinner Thai-style, with rice as the centerpiece, surrounded by satellite dishes. You can do it that way, but any way goes at Siamese Princess.

Siamese Princess restaurant, 8048 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles. (213) 653-2643. Open for lunch Wednesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner seven days, from 5:30 to 11 p.m. Major credit cards accepted. Valet parking available. Banquet facilities or home catering available. Entrees from $5.50 to $13.95.