Turning Up Again : The ‘Gidget’-Style Flip Is Back--But Now It’s Tailored for the Executive Set
ADVERTISING executives project that American women are heading into a period of “neo-traditionalism,” a return to time-honored attitudes, values and styles. The trend is giving rise to hairdos that are classic, feminine and non-threatening, looks reminiscent of the pre-women’s-movement ‘50s and ‘60s.
Perhaps the most evocative do is the flip. Yes, the sugar-sweet style with turned-up ends is back. The original, usually featuring a back-combed crown, clip-on bows and lots of spray, was worn by Sandra Dee in “Gidget,” Doris Day and Jacqueline Kennedy. The 1989 version is softer, more tailored and worn closer to the head than its pouffed predecessor.
Both flips developed because women and their stylists were bored. Thirty years ago, women were tired of the rounded, teased bubble. So savvy hairdressers like Manhattan’s Kenneth, who designed Kennedy’s style, urged their clients to let their hair grow past chin length so that the ends could be flipped, creating a style that was slightly elongated, yet full at the crown, sides and back.
Today, the smooth, turned-under bob--or “power cut,” as it has come to be known--looks tired. Once again, stylists are asking their clients to gain a bit of length and to experiment with upturned ends.
But few hairdressers are pulling out rollers and clips for the new version. Instead, it is created with a precise cut and a blow dryer. As Alex Doyle of the Doyle Wilson salon on Melrose Avenue explains: “A graduated edge--rather than a straight blunt cut--allows the hair to flip. Then, by holding the dryer underneath the ends, the hair naturally turns up.”
Hair stylist Blase, who flips hair at the Char Salon in Beverly Hills, acknowledges that for some women a flat crown isn’t flattering, but he still discourages back-combing. Blase cuts height into the style by creating tufts at the crown. He finishes the look with eyebrow-length bangs.
The flip started showing up in fashion magazines last month. Susan Dey of “L.A. Law” flipped the ends of her bob when she appeared on “Late Night With David Letterman” recently, and Candice Bergen was spotted in Beverly Hills with turned-up ends. Marilyn Quayle, wife of Vice President Dan Quayle, also wears a flip, but she has been criticized for sporting an outdated version. Instead of being flat and gently bent upwards, hers is pouffed, reminiscent of the old Kennedy style.
Doyle, who created the flip shown in Redken International’s latest national ad, says that the style is particularly important now because it creates a triangular line, a shape that is reflected in spring fashion silhouettes.
“This is a very American trend,” adds Blase, who represented Redken at a recent international hair-styling competition in Dusseldorf, Germany. “European movie stars like Gina Lollobrigida and Brigitte Bardot copied Jackie Kennedy’s look and turned it into an international trend. Now it’s new again, but the first baby boomers can take out their old high school snapshots and see how they looked in bubble-style flips.”
Hair: Eusebio / Doyle Wilson Salon; makeup: Edward Sanchez / Doyle Wilson Salon; model: Carmen / Elite
