Monasteries in the Air

With the spectacular alpine forest of the Pindos Mountains behind his back, a frail, bearded, black-robed monk hung suspended high above the valley floor.

Risking a fall of almost 2,000 feet and protected only by a frayed basket of coarse netting, he dangled at the end of a tautly stretched rope. It was a rope--a lifeline--that was, by custom, replaced only when the old one snapped.

Looking up from a sketch we beheld our destination, the silhouettes of monasteries clinging to the tops of the giant Meteora (rock pinnacles) in central Greece. Beneath the drawing, in fine calligraphy, were the words, “ ta Meteora Monistiria “ (“The monasteries that hang in the air”).

The first ascent of these pinnacles supposedly was made by a devout ascetic who ingeniously fastened a rope to the leg of an eagle that nested atop a lofty peak.

A Long Tradition

The written record, however, shows that for more than 800 years hermits and monks used ropes, winches and jointed ladders to transport themselves and supplies up the cliffs.

Beneath the cool shade of grape vines we enjoyed tangy goat-milk yogurt, freshly baked pita bread and hot Greek coffee.

Leaving from the historic town of Kalambaka by bus we slowly and gradually ascended a narrow, winding road. Hacked out of the rugged mountains, the newly paved road provides convenient access to the principal monasteries of the region. During the half-hour drive each turn offers spectacular views and varying perspectives of the towering rocks.

The locals believe that the giant pillars of rock were flung down to earth by angry gods. Geological studies show that the Thessalian Plain was once covered by a giant sea. The bizarre and fantastic forms of the Meteora were slowly sculptured by the eddying waters of the receding sea.

For tens of thousands of years these massive yellow-ochre sandstone formations were split, carved and twisted by earthquakes and the erosive forces of wind and rain. They dominate the landscape, casting their long shadows over the verdant valley.

The roadway comes to an abrupt end. Before us, beyond a deep chasm, stood the Monastery of the Great Meteoron, built atop Platylithos, the highest and most spacious rock of Meteora .

To reach the high-walled monastery we climbed almost 200 steps that were carved in 1923. Once inside, several monks serving as guides described the history of the region.

Some academicians believe that the first arrivals came in the 9th Century, seeking sanctuary in the caves at the base of the rocks. History begins, however, during the 11th Century with the establishment of the Monastery of Doupiani.

Throughout the turbulent 14th Century, Neilos, abbot of the Doupiani Church, transferred the hermitages from the base of the pillars to the summits. By the end of the 16th Century more than 600 monks occupied about 24 monasteries atop the heights.

Decline of Monasteries

Ideals of the monastic life declined at the end of the 16th Century. Only five of the monasteries are inhabited, with a sixth under renovation.

The Monastery of the Great Meteoron was founded by St. Athanasius the Meteorite during the 14th Century. At the height of its glory the Great Meteoron became the largest and most lavishly decorated of these monasteries.

The original refectory has been converted into a museum that displays hand-bound volumes of rare, finely embroidered books and fragile manuscripts from the 12th through the 17th centuries.

These valuable and ecclesiastical works represent only a fraction of the original art. Most has been lost, devoured by worms or stolen throughout the centuries.

Along the walls of the monastery are the monk’s cells. They awaken before sunup to begin prayers. Doors are tightly sealed. Each cell is private.

Down the corridor from the old kitchen and ancient hearth, a small room houses a collection of neatly stacked skulls and long bones.

Children, crowding shoulder to shoulder on their tiptoes, giggling, take turns viewing the skeletal remains through a small window in the door.

The abbot says: “The skulls, being the upper part of man, represent the spiritual state, while all other bones represent human desires.”

Across from the Great Meteoron we crossed an iron footbridge spanning a large chasm. Atop this second pinnacle rests the Monastery of Agios Varlaam, dating from the 14th Century and named in memory of the Hermit Varlaam.

Outside the main courtyard a wooden balcony overlooks the beauty of the Thessalian Plain more than 1,000 feet below.

The Oldest Monastery

We continued to the Monastery of Agios Stephanos, the oldest monastery of Meteora. Built as a hermitage, the monastery has been converted to a nunnery.

The Monastery of St. Nicholas Anapafsas was founded in the 14th Century and the church of St. Nicholas is entirely illustrated with the frescoes of Theophanes the Cretan.

By climbing a long circular flight of more than 140 steps we reached the Monastery of Agias Trias, built by the monk Dometius in 1476. Inside, simple, sparse lines provide a striking contrast to the more richly decorated monasteries.

Near the Varlaam monastery we discovered a lofty vantage point atop a craggy pinnacle. Far beneath that perch the Pineous River flows, its cool, refreshing water nurturing orchards of figs and oranges. Solitary shepherds with their flocks of sheep and goats dot the hillsides.

As day drew to an end the rich hues of the setting sun warmed the wooden galleries and red-tile, corniced rooftops that crown and adorn the monasteries. Armies of billowing clouds reflected a rainbow of color across the sky.

Within minutes a tall, bearded monk stepped onto the veranda at Varlaam, chanting ancient Byzantine hymns that echoed from the depths of the deepest chasms to the heavens.

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Conservative dress is required by visitors to the monasteries that are open 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 to 6 p.m., six days a week. No pants or sleeveless dresses for women and no shorts for men.

First-class hotels in Kalambaka are the Motel Divani and the Xenia. Camping is permitted, but only in designated areas.

During the high season, April through October, double occupancy is about $60 to $70 U.S. Rates are 10% less from November through March at the Divani. The Xenia is closed November through March.

The cost of campground space is about $5 to $10 a night, depending on amenities.

Rail and bus service is available to Kalambaka. From Athens it’s a four-hour trip by railroad, about $7.50 first-class and $5 tourist class. From Thessaloniki, a two-hour trip by railroad, it’s about $4 first-class and $3 tourist class (prices one way only) .

Dining is available in first-class hotels and a multitude of family-owned restaurants. Do not hesitate to sample the local cuisine.

In the summer, buses leave Kalambaka for Great Meteoron four times a day, $3 round trip. Taxis from Kalambaka to Great Meteoron charge about $7 round trip.

For more information on travel to Greece, contact the Greek National Tourist Organization, 611 West 6th St., Suite 1998, Los Angeles 90017, or call (213) 626-6696.