Easter Breads

Christians will celebrate Easter next Sunday, not only through their religious ceremonies, but with meals featuring time-honored recipes. The traditional foods of this holiday, developed over centuries and passed down from generation to generation, will grace tables around the world.

Representative of these special foods are the numerous Easter breads, many of which share similiar flavors and symbolic shapes, such as the cross.

Stories differ as to the origin of hot cross buns, but the English have a longstanding tradition of serving the cross-topped rolls on Good Friday. They make them with currants and mixed citrus peel, score the tops with a knife before baking, then finish with a brushing of sugar syrup.

Here in the United States, raisins and chopped candied fruit are often substituted, and a powdered sugar glaze cross is added after baking. The version of this recipe presented today even designates the fruit as an optional ingredient.

A cross made of dough also tops Portuguese sweet bread, under which they tuck a raw, untinted egg. Eggs, an ancient symbol of life, are another common thread between the bread recipes from various countries. The Italians tint and tuck them into the almond- and anise-flavored dough of their Easter bread.

Eastern Orthodox Greeks, who celebrate Easter this year on April 30, prepare Tsoureka, flavored with mahleb, a Persian spice made from the ground seed of a wild, cherry-type fruit that gives a distinctive perfume-like flavor to the baked bread. Once again, nestled into the dough are hard-cooked eggs that have been dyed red with a special coloring agent.

The cylindrical shape of Finnish Easter bread and Russian Kulich is achieved by baking the dough in coffee cans. The top of Kulich is frosted to resemble a church dome covered with snow.

Of course, not everyone has time to make yeast breads, so traditional flavors such as lemon and cardamom may also be used to enhance a loaf of quick bread, leavened with baking powder so the ingredients can be simply combined and baked. And there’s certainly no reason why other time-saving breads, such as any variety of muffins or skillet-fried Scottish bannocks, can’t be used to start some traditions of your own.

On the eve of the California fruit and grape harvest, the state’s growers are under siege from fears about pesticides and sabotage that have arisen in the past few weeks. They are also determining whether farm methods need to be changed as a result. Please see story on Page 2.HOT CROSS BUNS

4 1/2 to 5 cups flour

2 packages dry yeast

1/3 cup granulated sugar

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Milk

Butter or margarine

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1 cup raisins

1 cup sifted powdered sugar

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Combine 1 1/2 cups flour, yeast, granulated sugar, salt, cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg in large mixing bowl. Place 1 1/4 cups milk and 1/4 cup butter in saucepan and warm to 130 degrees. Add to flour mixture. Beat 2 minutes at medium speed of electric mixer.

Add eggs and 1/2 cup more flour, beat 2 minutes at high speed. Gradually stir in enough remaining flour with raisins to form soft dough. Knead on lightly floured board until smooth, about 5 minutes. Place in greased bowl, cover and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 1 hour.

Punch dough down and divide into 15 equal parts. Shape each portion in ball. Place equal distance apart on greased 15 1/2x10 1/2-inch jellyroll pan. Let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

Brush with melted butter. Bake at 350 degrees 25 minutes or until golden brown. Cool on rack.

Combine powdered sugar with 2 to 3 tablespoons milk, 1 1/2 teaspoons softened butter and vanilla. Drizzle in cross pattern over each warm bun. Makes 15 buns.

Note: 1/4 cup chopped candied fruit may be added at same time as raisins, if desired.

TSOUREKA

1 package Greek red egg dye

1 cup boiling water

1 cup vinegar

10 eggs

1 1/2 cups milk

3/4 cup butter, cut into pieces

1 cup sugar

1 tablespoon salt

1/4 cup oil

3 packages dry yeast

1 cup warm water (105 to 115 degrees)

2 teaspoons powdered mahleb

8 to 9 cups flour

Sesame seeds

Place egg dye in 2 cup measure and dissolve with boiling water. Add vinegar.

Wash 6 eggs in lukewarm water. Place enough water in saucepan to cover eggs when added in single layer. Bring water to boil. Stir in 1/3 dye-vinegar mixture (discard or use remaining dye to color other eggs). Add washed eggs and simmer 20 minutes. Drain eggs and set aside to cool.

Scald milk in saucepan. Add butter, stirring until melted (return to heat if necessary). Stir in sugar, salt and oil. Cool.

Dissolve yeast in warm water in large bowl. Add milk mixture and 3 lightly beaten eggs. Stir in mahleb and 2 to 3 cups flour. Continue to add flour, about 1/2 cup at time, until dough is soft and pliable.

Place dough in greased bowl, cover and allow to rise in warm place 1 to 2 hours or until doubled. Punch dough down and divide in half.

Divide each half in 3 pieces. Form each piece into rope about 2 feet long. Braid 3 ropes together, then place in circle on lightly greased baking sheet, pinching ends to seal. Repeat procedure with remaining 3 ropes.

Press 3 dyed eggs into each loaf, equal distance apart. Brush loaves with remaining beaten egg and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Cover and allow to rise about 1 hour or until doubled.

Bake at 350 degrees about 35 minutes or until golden. Makes 2 large loaves.

Note: Mahlep is ground seed of wild, cherry-type fruit that may be found at Greek and Near Eastern grocery stores.

ALMOND SCOTTISH

BANNOCKS

1 cup oats

1 cup yellow cornmeal

1/3 cup roasted diced almonds

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon brown sugar, packed

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

2 cups buttermilk

1 tablespoon molasses

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

2 eggs

2 tablespoons melted butter

Oil

Sour cream, honey or jam

Combine oats, cornmeal, almonds, salt, brown sugar and ginger in mixing bowl. Combine buttermilk, molasses and lemon zest in another bowl. Beat in eggs and melted butter and add to oats mixture. Stir until well mixed.

For each bannock, heat 1 tablespoon oil in 7-inch nonstick skillet. Add 1/2 cup batter, smoothing to layer 1/4-inch thick. Fry over medium heat about 5 minutes.

Invert plate over skillet and turn bannock out onto plate. Slide back into skillet and continue cooking 3 minutes or until underside is browned.

Repeat procedure with remaining batter. Serve bannocks cut into wedges with sour cream, honey or jam. Makes 6 to 7 servings.

CARDAMOM-LEMON

QUICKBREAD

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

1/3 cup butter or margarine, melted

1 tablespoon lemon extract

2 eggs

1 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 1/4 teaspoons crushed cardamom seeds

1/2 cup milk

Grated zest of 1 large lemon

1/4 cup chopped toasted almonds

Cream together 1 cup sugar, melted butter and lemon extract until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs.

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Stir in ground cardamom and 1/2 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds. Add flour mixture alternately with milk to egg mixture, beating to blend. Fold in lemon zest and almonds.

Turn batter into greased, wax-paper-lined 8x4-inch loaf pan. Combine remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and 3/4 teaspoon crushed cardamom seeds and sprinkle over top of loaf.

Bake at 350 degrees about 1 hour or until wood pick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan 5 to 10 minutes, then remove and cool on wire rack. Makes 1 loaf.

FINNISH EASTER BREAD

3/4 cup half and half

1 envelope dry yeast

1/4 cup warm (105 to 115 degrees) water

3 1/4 to 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

Butter

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons grated orange zest

1/2 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup blanched slivered almonds

1/2 cup milk, at room temperature

1/2 cup rye flour

Heat half and half in saucepan until warm. Dissolve yeast in warm water in large bowl. Stir in half and half and 1 cup all-purpose flour and blend until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in warm place (80 to 85 degrees) until doubled.

Stir batter down. Add egg yolks, sugar, 1/4 cup butter, salt, cardamom, lemon and orange zests, raisins and almonds and beat until thoroughly combined. Stir in milk and rye flour until blended, then stir in remaining all-purpose flour, 1/2 cup at time, to make firm dough.

Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic. Place dough in greased bowl and turn to grease top. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in warm place until doubled.

Punch dough down and work into smooth ball. Wrap strip of greased foil around top of greased 3-pound coffee can so foil extends 2 inches above rim.

Place dough in can. Cover can loosely with wax paper and let rise until dough almost reaches top of can. Bake at 350 degrees 1 hour. Allow sufficient head space in oven.

Remove bread and immediately brush top with butter. Let cool in can about 15 minutes, then remove and cool on wire rack. When cool, cut loaf lengthwise into quarters, then into triangular slices. Serve plain or spread with butter. Makes 1 loaf.

ITALIAN EASTER BREAD

3 cups flour

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 package dry yeast

2/3 cup milk

2 tablespoons butter

2 eggs

1/2 cup raisins

1/4 cup chopped blanched almonds

1/2 teaspoon anise seeds

3 tablespoons butter, melted

5 tinted unshelled raw eggs

Combine 1 cup flour, sugar, salt and yeast in large bowl. Combine milk and butter and place over low heat until liquid is warm. Butter does not need to melt.

Gradually add liquid mixture to dry ingredients and beat 2 minutes at medium speed of electric mixer, scraping bowl occasionally. Add eggs and enough flour to make thick batter, about 1/2 cup. Beat at high speed 2 minutes.

Stir in remaining flour to make soft dough. Knead on floured surface until dough is smooth and elastic, about 8 to 10 minutes.

Place dough in greased bowl and turn to grease top. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 1 hour. Combine raisins, almonds and anise seeds.

Punch dough down and turn out onto floured surface. Knead raisin mixture into dough. Divide dough in half. Roll each half into rope 24 inches long and twist ropes together to form ring on greased baking sheet.

Brush with melted butter. Place colored eggs in spaces between twists. Cover and let rise until doubled.

Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from pan and cool on rack. Makes 1 loaf, about 10 servings.

PORTUGUESE EASTER

BREAD

5 to 6 cups flour

2 packages quick-rise yeast

2/3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 cup milk

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 tablespoon lemon juice

6 eggs

3/4 cup golden raisins

Combine 2 cups flour, yeast, sugar, salt and lemon zest in large mixer bowl. Heat milk, butter and lemon juice until very warm (120 to 130 degrees) in saucepan. Butter does not need to melt.

Add liquid to flour mixture. Add 4 eggs. Blend at low speed until moistened, then beat 3 minutes at medium speed.

Gradually stir in raisins and enough remaining flour by hand to make firm dough. Knead on floured surface 5 to 8 minutes.

Place in greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 30 minutes.

Punch dough down. Pull off dough ball about 3 inches in diameter. Divide remaining dough into 2 parts. Shape each half into round loaf. Place in greased 8-inch cake pans. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 25 minutes.

Place 1 of remaining 2 eggs in middle of each loaf. Press down gently to keep in place. Make 4 ropes about 9 inches long from reserved dough ball. Form cross over each egg.

Bake at 375 degrees 40 to 45 minutes or until golden bown. Remove from pans and cool on racks. Makes 2 loaves.

KULICH

5 3/4 to 6 1/4 cups flour

2 packages quick-rise yest

1/2 cup sugar

2 teaspoons salt

1 1/4 cups buttermilk

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 eggs

2/3 cup raisins

2/3 cup chopped almonds

Combine 2 1/2 cups flour, yeast, sugar and salt in large mixer bowl, mixing well. Heat buttermilk, water and butter in saucepan until very warm (120 to 130 degrees). Butter does not need to melt.

Add liquid to flour mixture. Add vanilla and eggs. Blend at low speed until moistened, then beat 3 minutes at medium speed.

Gradually stir in raisins, chopped almonds and enough remaining flour by hand to make soft dough. Knead on floured surface until smooth and elastic, 5 to 8 minutes.

Divide dough into 3 equal portions. Shape each third into smooth ball. Place in greased 1-pound coffee cans. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 30 minutes.

Bake at 375 degrees 30 to 35 minutes or until golden brown. If tops begin to get too dark, cover loosely with foil during last 5 to 10 minutes of baking. Remove from cans and cool on wire racks. Makes 3 loaves.

Note: Drizzle with powdered sugar glaze and garnish with candies, if desired.