Great Southern California Wine Lists, Part II

There is a certain type of wine list, usually resembling a plastic-coated Father’s Day card, that contains four white wines, three red wines and a bottle of bubbly. Typically, they are written by a wholesale wine representative trying to help a struggling cafe owner who knows nothing about wine. (Alas, neither does the wholesale rep.) Thus, each wine carries a description, usually in three words:

“Cabernet Sauvignon: Aristocratic, sublime, jejune .”

“Chardonnay: Regal, stately, moribund.”

Such lists now have a companion: the one at Bouzy Rouge in Newport. Except this one is meant to be a parody of those plastic-coated cards.

There is, for instance, a 1987 Au Bon Climate Chardonnay, about which is written, “A French Meursault in drag.”

About Field Stone Rose of Petite Sirah: “Not your typical insipid pink water.”

About 1979 Conn Creek Cabernet: “Show off to your visiting French in-laws.”

Not every wine has a comment attached; most comments are reserved for wines that are either unknown, underappreciated or personal favorites of the bright light behind this list.

That would be Tony Hermann, and it’s clear from his list of more than 500 selections that he has a lot of personal favorites. A lot of these wines are truly those for the inveterate wine lover. For only a chronic wine collector would have such eclectic selections as Chateau Ygrec (dry-styled second label of Chateau d’Yquem); an Australian Marsanne; a fruit wine; good French whites, red Burgundies and a slew of Bordeaux; as well as four non-alcoholic wines.

And, oh yes, there are in fact two Bouzy Rouge wines--the still, dry red wine of Champagne for which the restaurant is named.

In his commentary, Hermann doesn’t talk down to his clientele. The remarks are usually short and pithy, although he has written a whole paragraph about a half-bottle of 1985 Sancerre Le Paradis from Vacheron--a wine that sells for all of $10 on the list.

For Dom Perignon, the overpriced Champagne that is often seen discounted to below $50 in discount retail shops, you’ll read:

“Where’s the DP? Is the Bouzy too choosy? Dom didn’t make the list, but it’s not for lack of quality. Suggest you watch for the next aisle display at Liquor Barn.”

Obviously a slap at all the deep discounting that’s available to multiple-case purchasers of the famed DP, but not to restaurants.

Wine by the glass is another area in which Bouzy Rouge shines. Hermann knows that most who order wine by the glass want “white wine”; a few want red. Only the more adventuresome want to know which wines are served by the glass, and for them Hermann has a separate sheet of 20 or so wines that change monthly.

The list doesn’t name the wine first, however. It lists the style first. A typical entry: “Superstar Rhone Red--Guigal Cotes du Rhone ‘85, $4.50.”

On the wine-by-the-glass list are such intriguing items as a dry German Riesling, a Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley and even an Oloroso Sherry as a before-dinner aperitif.

Glassware is attractive; service is informed and not snooty. And most of all, there is a wine to go with all of the foods found on the eclectic menu.

A minor drawback: Some of the prices are a tad high, I found. This is because the wines in question are in short supply and Hermann knows replacement is difficult. Another justification for the higher prices of some wines is that they are older vintages, a plus for the wine lover.

Also, many wines on the list are available to take home, with discounts (25% for fewer than 12 bottles, 33% for 12 or more bottles). This means that if you missed out on buying the 1982 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon when it was commercially available, you could get some at Bouzy Rouge for $236 a case.

And if you’re dining alone or with a designated driver, there are 14 half bottles on this list, including two Champagnes from France and some older vintages of reds.

All in all, the list is a delight for the wine lover and one that will aid the novice greatly.

Bouzy Rouge Cafe, 3110 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach. (714) 673-3440. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.