Burger Bonanza : <i> Americans go out and eat 5 billion burgers every year. </i>

Dolores’ Drive-In, 8925 Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills. (213) 657-7455. Style: A walk-in honest-to-goodness American joint where the waitresses call you “honey.” Setting: Unbelievably tacky. Recommended : Hamburger, $3.25.

The Grill, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills. (213) 276-0615. Style: Sensible fare served by professionals who won’t tell your their names. Setting: Comfortably upscale. Recommended : Grilled hamburger with cheese, $8.25 (served only at lunch).

The Heritage, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica. (213) 392-4956. Style: A serious continental restaurant in the midst of casual Santa Monica. Setting: Grand plush. Recommended : The smoked bufala mozzarella topped buffalo burger (lunch only), comes with fresh potato chips, coleslaw and silver bowls of Dijon mustard, ketchup and horseradish mayonnaise, $7.50.

Off Vine, 6263 Leland Way, Hollywood. (213) 962-1900. Style: Neighborhood restaurant with health/California influence. Setting: Clapboard house with shark diving through the roof. Recommended : Turkeyburger with Dijon mustard, chile mayo and cilantro catsup, $6.95.

The Wholly Cow, 19346 Rinaldi St., Northridge. (818) 368-4150. Style: House of breakfasts and burgers and bovine art. Setting: A moo-ving experience. Recommended : The Wholly Cow special burger with bacon, avocado, sauteed mushrooms, red onion, tomato and melted Swiss cheese, $5.95.