Jalama Park: Few Roads, Much Scenery

At Point Conception, the western-running shoreline of Southern California turns sharply northward and heralds a number of changes: a colder Pacific, foggier days, cooler air. Ecological differences between the north and south coasts are illustrated by the marine life occupying the two sections. Point Conception serves as a line of demarcation between differing species of polyps, abalone, crabs and limpets. Climatically, geographically and sociologically, it can be argued that Southern California ends at Point Conception.

This hike takes you along a pristine section of beach and retraces the route of the De Anza Trail, a trail lost to most hikers for more than 200 years. The De Anza Trail was the route of the Juan Bautista de Anza Expedition of 1775-76, which brought 240 colonists from Mexico across the Colorado Desert and up the coast to found the city of San Francisco.

Historically, the De Anza Trail is much better documented than the Lewis and Clark or other trails that opened up the West. This is due to the meticulous diary-keeping of Anza and the expedition’s chaplain, Father Font.

On Feb. 26, 1776, the Anza expedition reached an Indian village called Rancheria Nueva, just east of Point Conception. Father Font noted the generosity of the Indians, praised their well-crafted baskets and stone cups, and concluded that the Indians would be good recruits for future missions.

This beach walk leaves from Jalama County Park, the only genuinely public access point anywhere near Point Conception. If the tide is right (be sure to consult a tide table), you can walk to within about half a mile of the point.

The coast between Gaviota State Park and Jalama County Park is divided between two huge ranches: the Hollister Ranch, which controls the land between Gaviota State Park and Point Conception, and the Bixby Ranch, which occupies the land between Point Conception and Jalama.

Both properties are privately held, so remember to keep to the beach and don’t walk the inland trails onto ranch land.

Directions to the trailhead: Jalama County Park is located 20 miles southwest of Lompoc off California 1. From U.S. 101, near Gaviota, exit on California 1 north and proceed 14 miles to Jalama Road. Turn left and go 14 miles through some beautiful ranch country to the county park. There is a park day-use fee.

The hike: Before heading south over the splendid sand dunes, check the tide table at the park store or at the entry kiosk. As you walk down-coast, you’ll soon realize that although Jalama County Park is not on the main Los Angeles-San Francisco thoroughfare, two groups have found it and claimed it as their own--surfers and surf fishermen.

Jalama County Park includes only about half a mile of shoreline, so you soon walk beyond the park boundary. The sandy beach narrows and gives way to rockier shore. Offshore, on the rocky reefs, seals linger. They seem to enjoy basking in the sun and getting doused by the breakers. Depending on the tide, you’ll encounter a number of sea walls. The smooth tops of the sea walls make a good trail; 1934 is the date embedded in the concrete walls.

Occasionally, Southern Pacific railroad tracks come into view, though with the crashing of the breakers, you can barely hear the passing trains. Because there are no public roads along this section of coast, walking or looking out a train window are the only ways to see this special country.

Halfway through your walk, after some lazy bends, the coastline heads almost due south and the Point Conception Coast Guard Reservation comes into view.

A bit more than half a mile from the lighthouse, you’ll run out of beach to walk; passage is blocked by waves crashing against the rocky point. Stay away from the lighthouse and Coast Guard Reservation: Visitors are not welcome. A bluff-top road and a number of cow trails lead toward the lighthouse, established by the federal government in 1855. However, these routes cross private ranch land and may not be used.