Something Distinctly New York About Brighton’s

You probably don’t know what scungilli is. Unless, of course, you happen to come from New York. And if you come from New York, you’ll instantly recognize that there is something familiar about Brighton’s, 7226 Melrose Ave., (213) 937-2801.

It’s more than the accents of the owners. It’s the menu, with its scungilli , its baked clams oreganata , its linguine with clams and its Manhattan chowder. Should you not be in the mood for seafood, Brighton’s also serves big plates of pork chops and chicken.

The TV in the bar is tuned to the baseball game. The portions are large and the prices reasonable. But although Brighton’s feels like Archie Bunker territory, there are lots of things to remind you that you’re in California. There’s the pole wrapped up in black-and-white fabric. There’s the rug. There’s the woman at the bar with the spandex pants and leather jacket and bleached-blond hair. There’s the guy on the skateboard who wanders in off Melrose to ask the way to Orange Street.

Pay them no mind. Order another half-dozen clams on the half shell. Have another martini. Think of Brighton Beach, and drink a toast to the Big Apple.