Screen Style / Bad-Guy Chic

The movie: “Black Rain”

The setup: In Osaka, middle-aged macho cop Michael Douglas and his handsome young sidekick Andy Garcia track down the exquisitely dressed and thoroughly evil Japanese mafioso, Yusaku Matsuda, above.

The look: For Douglas, a cop of questionable ethics, a nondescript black leather jacket, old T-shirts and jeans. His partner, Garcia, pure of heart and spirit, gets the ubiquitous detective’s trench coat and fabulous ties. While the renegade bad guy is resplendent in a $25,000 Japanese designer wardrobe.

The labels: On Douglas--Levi’s 505 black jeans, dyed-to-be-dreary Hanes T-shirts and a leather jacket bereft of adornment. Garcia’s expensive-looking suits are Armani-like, but don’t carry a designer label. His ties are of sophisticated Japanese printed fabric. Matsuda’s high rolling style was enhanced by Jean Paul Gaultier steel-rimmed sunglasses, gold-colored Kenzo suits, Gianna Versace boots, and black leather jodhpurs from a Tokyo biker shop.

The stores: In the affordable zone, Garcia’s expensive-looking suits were purchased at Moe Ginsburg, a Manhattan discount shop. And his significant-looking ties by Format sell for $50 to $60 at Macy’s in New York, Fred Segal and Maxfield in Los Angeles. Douglas’ elongated black leather jacket came from a small shop on 34th Street in New York. But costume designer Ellen Marojnick isn’t sure of the name anymore.

The adaptation: Garcia’s ties are the sort any man can relate to, as long as he’s not irrevocably attached to the preppie handbook. And men who want to venture beyond recognizable designer labels might see them as a stylish change of pace. Costume designer Marojnick did.

The payoff: Cops who dress for practicality live longer than those who wear great looking ties. And crime still doesn’t pay, but it does buy very handsome clothes.