Quick Cooking Preserves Texture

Nothing shows off the microwave’s prowess faster than the cooking of delicate, lean, white fish. And no other method--not broiling, not grilling, not sauteing, not stove-top steaming--beats the microwave’s moist method of cooking when it comes to preserving every ounce of just-caught flavor.

Of course, there are a couple of techniques to learn. Most important, perhaps, is the way of arranging the fish for microwaving. Fillets are rarely of uniform thickness, so if the thin, tapering ends are not to overcook before the fleshier central portions are done, the ends must be folded envelope-fashion toward the center.

Despite the speed with which it cooks fish, the microwave can also preserve the fish’s original delicate texture, provided you follow these recipes.

FILLETS OF FISH AMANDINE

1 1/2 pounds flounder, sole or other flat fish, cut 1/4 inch thick

1 teaspoon lemon or lime juice

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1/3 cup slivered or sliced blanched almonds

Arrange fish fillets 1/2-inch apart in shallow baking dish with thickest portions toward outside. Fold any tapering ends envelope-fashion in toward center. Sprinkle evenly with lemon juice. Cover with paper towel. Microwave on HIGH (100% power) 4 1/2 to 7 minutes, rotating dish 180 degrees at half time, just until fish is opaque.

Cover fish with foil and let stand 2 minutes. Probe fish with fork--fish should just flake.

If fish is underdone, remove foil, re-cover with paper towel and microwave on HIGH in 30-second increments, testing between each.

Meanwhile, in wax-paper-covered, 8-inch pie plate melt butter by microwaving on HIGH 25 to 30 seconds. Mix in almonds. Microwave, uncovered, on HIGH 2 1/2 to 3 minutes, stirring after 1 1/2 minutes, until lightly browned.

Drain liquid from fish (reserve for stock or soup, if desired). Sprinkle fish with almonds. Makes 4 servings.

BAHAMIAN STEAMED RED SNAPPER

1/2 cup tissue-thin onion rings

1 cup canned crushed tomatoes

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 bay leaves, crumbled

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 pounds red snapper, pompano, cod or haddock fillets, cut 3/4 to 1 inch thick

2 tablespoons minced chives

1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

Combine onion rings, tomatoes, garlic, bay leaves, salt and pepper in 2 1/2- or 3-quart casserole. Cover with lid or vented plastic wrap and microwave on HIGH (100% power) 5 minutes, stirring at half time.

Lay fish on top, placing skin-side down if fillets are unskinned and folding any tapered ends in toward center. Sprinkle with chives and hot pepper sauce.

Cover with wax paper and microwave on MEDIUM (50% power) 9 to 13 minutes, rotating dish at half time and if fillets are 1-inch thick, turning them over as well.

Cover fish with foil and let stand 2 minutes. Probe fish with fork--fish should just flake. If fish is underdone, remove foil, re-cover with paper towel and microwave on HIGH in 30-second increments, testing between each.

When fish tests done, lift to heated plates, whisk butter into casserole sauce and spoon over each portion, dividing total amount evenly. Makes 4 servings.

Note: In ovens of less than 600 watts, increase cooking times about 15%.