COOKING & ENTERTAINING WITH STYLE : And the Winners Are . . . : <i> Our 16th-annual wine tasting--of Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc--uncovers bright new stars plus sharp values</i>

Most everyone in the wine world--consumers and producers alike--knows that Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are the most popular white and red table wines in America. Then why, for our 16th-annual Los Angeles Times wine tasting, did we choose to spotlight Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir?

European wine lovers, to whom Pinot Noir-born Burgundy is the undisputed king of all wines, and Cabernet Sauvignon the queen, might only wonder at the audacity of any competition from our young wine land of California. We dared, and in the judgment of our 18 panelists, all of professional standing, eight California Pinot Noir wines, from several regions, placed ahead of a 1985 vintage Echezeaux jewel from the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti.

And Sauvignon Blanc? This is the sole grape variety grown in the Loire Valley responsible for some of the most graceful white wines of France, Pouilly Fume, vines ribbing the hills of this chateau country of legendary history. It is also the dominant vine of French Graves, where its sauvage or bold character is forever tempered with varying amounts of softer, fruitier Semillon, the dominant grape of Sauternes. In the last few years, with decisive canopy management of the vines’ luxuriant foliage, our viticulturists have made tremendous strides in taming the wild assertiveness of this varietal, and wine makers, too, have carefully etched a new personality for this less costly, but definite rival to the preeminence of Chardonnay at wine-selection time.

These bright new stars, of engaging difference, none with outrageous grassiness, emerge from regions as diverse as Monterey and Mendocino counties, Lake County and Livermore, and of course, Napa, Sonoma, and the Central Coast regions. Among our 33 winners are some fabulous discoveries. Though the choices of our tasting jury may be controversial, treasures of taste abound in the following results, and the value scale is remarkable.

Panel members for the 1989 tasting included, in addition to the author, Dr. William Bond, Byron Kenneth Brown, owner/wine maker of Byron Vineyard & Winery; Bruno d’Alfonso, wine maker of Sanford Winery; Fred Dame Master of Wine; Jill Davis, wine maker of Buena Vista Winery; Steve Doerner, wine maker Calera Winery; Richard Graff, president/wine maker of Chalone, Inc.; Dwayne Helmuth, wine maker of Callaway Vineyards & Winery; Ben Lane of Wine Futures Exchange Inc.; Jerry Luper, wine maker of Rutherford Hill; Bruce McGuire, wine maker of Santa Barbara Winery; Lew Mitchell of Lew Mitchell’s Orient Express; Michael Mondavi, general manager of Robert Mondavi Winery; Victor Hugo Roberts, wine maker of Creston Manor Vineyards & Winery; Piero Selvaggio of Valentino Restaurant; Steve Wallace, wine merchant, and importer Winston Wilson. The tasting was produced by Gricel Fernandez-Sanabria and James Willett.

The panel’s ratings: SAUVIGNON BLANC/FUME BLANC / 46 ENTRIES Wine: Price: Rating ROCHIOLI 1988 RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $9: 16.6 Produced and bottled by J. Rochioli Vineyards, Healdsburg. Third-generation Sonoma vineyardist Tom Rochioli produced this luscious, rich wine of almost tropical-fruit flavors. BEAULIEU VINEYARD 1988 NAPA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $8.50: 16.0 Produced and bottled by Beaulieu Vineyards, Rutherford. A table wine of melon taste, with equally fine varietal fruit character. VENTANA VINEYARD 1988 MONTEREY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $8: 15.8 Grown, produced and bottled by Ventana Vineyards, Soledad. Pleasing floral aromas give this distinctive wine an ingratiating beginning, leading to more complex tastes. KENWOOD VINEYARDS 1987 SONOMA COUNTY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $9: 15.7 Produced and bottled by Kenwood Vineyards, Kenwood. Herbal hints in bouquet lead in to the wine’s fine balance . GRAND CRU VINEYARDS 1987 SONOMA COUNTY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $9: 15.6 Produced and bottled by Grand Cru Vineyards, Glen Ellen. Honey scents in this pleasant wine, perky with citrus-like accents. KENDALL-JACKSON 1988 CLEAR LAKE SAUVIGNON BLANC: $8: 15.6 Made and bottled by Kendall-Jackson Vineyards & Winery, Lakeport. The bouquet has subtle complexity arising from fine fruit, giving a rich, full taste, albeit delicate character. BRANDER 1987 SANTA YNEZ VALLEY ESTATE RESERVE SAUVIGNON BLANC: $11: 15.5 Grown, produced and bottled by Brander Vineyard, Los Olivos. Clean and crisp taste, good companion to seafood. DRY CREEK VINEYARD 1988 SONOMA COUNTY FUME BLANC: $9: 15.5 Produced and bottled by Dry Creek Vineyard, Healdsburg. Pale straw color, the bouquet has wood and herbal hints, some melon tastes, good balance, crisp and dry, clean finish. GRGICH HILLS 1987 NAPA VALLEY FUME BLANC: $10: 15.5 Produced and bottled by Grgich Hills Cellar, Rutherford. A good varietal nose leads in to a brilliant, silvery wine . SANTA BARBARA WINERY 1987 SANTA YNEZ VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $8: 15.5 Produced and bottled by Santa Barbara Winery, Santa Barbara. An excellent example of the advances in wine-making, this varietal has an enticing floral bouquet. RUTHERFORD HILL WINERY 1988 NAPA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $7.50: 15.4 Produced and bottled by Rutherford Hill Winery, Rutherford. This rather aggressive wine accents some vegetal tastes, unique in style, silky finish. For food, not aperitif, service. BYRON 1988 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $8.50: 15.3 Produced and bottled by Byron Vineyard & Winery, Santa Maria. Subtle bouquet of clean fruit, with hints of oak. CRESTON MANOR 1987 SAN LUIS OBISPO SAUVIGNON BLANC: $7.50: 15.3 Made and bottled by Creston Manor Winery & Vineyards, Creston. Always a prize-winning wine, this edition is quite straightforward, with balanced finish. SANFORD 1987 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $8.50: 15.3 Produced and bottled by Sanford Winery, Buellton. In its complex bouquet there is a hint of grassiness, happily overcome by the incense of oak, rich body, good finish. BUENA VISTA 1988 LAKE COUNTY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $7.50: 15.1 Produced and bottled by Buena Vista, Carneros. Silvery pale wine of graceful structure, delicate fruitiness , creamy finish. WENTE BROS. 1987 LIVERMORE ESTATE-BOTTLED SAUVIGNON BLANC: $9: 15.1 Produced and bottled by Wente Bros., Livermore. Stellar attributes in bouquet mingle hints of ripe lime, orange and the vanillin of oak. Some loved it, some didn’t. CHATEAU SOUVERAIN 1988 SONOMA COUNTY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $5.50: 15.0 Produced and bottled by Chateau Souverain, Geyserville. Rich, smooth and soft wine, sans oak . Great value. GUENOC 1987 LAKE COUNTY 54%--NAPA 46% SAUVIGNON BLANC: $7.50: 15.0 Produced and bottled by Guenoc Winery, Middletown. Gentle wine, hints of oak in bouquet, balanced finish. ROBERT PEPI WINERY 1987 NAPA VALLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC: $8.50: 15.0 Produced and bottled by Robert Pepi Winery, Oakville. This wine received higher marks by some for its varietal complexity, marrying fruit, oak and toastiness from time on lees.

PINOT NOIR / 32 ENTRIES Wine: Price: Rating HACIENDA 1986 SONOMA VALLEY ESTATE RESERVE PINOT NOIR: $15: 16.0 Grown, produced and bottled by Hacienda Winery, Sonoma. Jewel-translucent, its aromas combine scents of cassis in rich complexity from French oak aging. ZACA MESA 1987 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY PINOT NOIR: $15: 16.0 Produced and bottled by Zaca Mesa Winery, Los Olivos. Charming wine. Tantalizing aromas suggest amaretto, ripe cherries and spice, wrapped in cedary scents. BEAULIEU VINEYARD 1987 LOS CARNEROS RESERVE PINOT NOIR: $9.50: 15.9 Produced and bottled by Beaulieu Vineyards, Rutherford. Deep richness of fruit in this wine that’s earthy and opulent. Elegant structure promises longevity. Remarkable value. ACACIA 1986 NAPA VALLEY-CARNEROS MADONNAY VINEYARD PINOT NOIR: $18: 15.8 Produced and bottled by Acacia Winery, Napa. Good color, fine structure, tastes of chocolate and cherries modified with the earthy, scents of remembered Burgundian wines. SANFORD 1986 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY PINOT NOIR: $20: 15.7 Produced and bottled by Sanford Winery, Buellton. The only wine in the tasting to ring up two perfect 20 scores. WILD HORSE 1987 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY PINOT NOIR: $13.50: 15.6 Produced and bottled by Wild Horse Winery, Templeton. One wine maker-panelist wrote “All the right stuff!” ROBERT MONDAVI 1987 NAPA VALLEY PINOT NOIR: $11: 15.5 Produced and bottled by Robert Mondavi, Oakville. In its assertive full flavors, it has a most promising future. SAINTSBURY 1987 CARNEROS PINOT NOIR: $15: 15.5 Produced and bottled by Saintsbury Winery, Napa. Splendid varietal character, hallmark translucence, full substance . ROMANEE-CONTI 1985 ECHEZEAUX: $125: 15.4 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, DeVillaine, Flagey-Echezeaux. Imported by Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena. Textbook perfection in bouquet, breed; spectacular vintage. CLOS DU BOIS 1986 SONOMA COUNTY PINOT NOIR: $10.50: 15.2 Produced and bottled by Clos Du Bois, Healdsburg. The tawny ruby of this Sonoma County wine is traditional, but the assertive bouquet is more vegetal than berry. BYRON 1987 SANTA BARBARA COUNTY RESERVE PINOT NOIR: $16: 15.1 Produced and bottled by Byron Vineyards & Winery, Santa Maria. Bouquet is somewhat closed; earthy after-tastes. PARDUCCI 1987 MENDOCINO COUNTY PINOT NOIR: $7.49: 15.1 Produced and bottled by Parducci Wine Cellars, Ukiah. A straightforward wine of fine Burgundian bouquet, but lacking the complexity hoped for from this classic varietal. CARNEROS CREEK 1985 LOS CARNEROS PINOT NOIR: $13: 15.0 Produced and bottled by Carneros Creek Winery, Napa. A rather peppery wine. Bouquet, suggesting tea leaves and good berry tastes to most of the tasters, was lacking in depth. SINSKEY VINEYARDS 1987 NAPA VALLEY PINOT NOIR: $14: 15.0 Produced and bottled by Sinskey Vineyards, St. Helena. An agreeable bouquet introduces this young wine, still rather astringent from unresolved tannins; fair aging potentials.

Following is a list of other wines tasted:

Sauvignon Blanc/Fume Blanc: Arciero 1987 Paso Robles $8; Belvedere 1988 North Coast-Discovery Series $4.50; Benziger of Glen Ellen 1988 Sonoma County Fume Blanc $8; Beringer 1987 Napa Valley Fume Blanc $7.50; Davis Bynum 1988 Sonoma County Fume Blanc-Reserve $7.50; Cain Cellars 1987 Napa Valley $8; Callaway 1986 Temecula Fume Blanc $8; Callaway 1987 Temecula Sauvignon Blanc $8; Chateau St. Jean 1987 Fume Blanc-La Petite Etoile $10.50; Chimney Rock 1987 Napa Valley Fume Blanc $10; Christian Brothers 1987 Napa Valley Fume Blanc $8.59; Clos du Bois 1988 Alexander Valley $8; Clos Pegase 1986 Napa Valley Fume Blanc $9.50; Clos du Val 1986 Napa Valley $8; Concannon 1986 Livermore Valley-Reserve $9.50; Conn Creek 1987 Napa Valley $9.95; Firestone 1987 Santa Ynez Valley $7.50; Flora Springs 1987 Napa Valley $8.50; Ernest & Julio Gallo 1987 California-Limited Reserve $3.50; Louis Honig 1987 Napa Valley-Estate $8.75; Jepson Vineyards 1987 Mendocino County $7.50; McDowell Valley Vineyards 1987 McDowell Valley Fume Blanc $9; Robert Mondavi 1986 Napa Valley Fume Blanc-Reserve $9.50; Parducci 1988 Mendocino County $7.50; Raymond 1987 Napa Valley $8; Charles F. Shaw 1988 Napa Valley $9.49; Silverado Vineyards 1987 Napa Valley $8.

Pinot Noir: Bouchaine Vineyards 1986 Napa Valley-Los Carneros $18; Buena Vista 1985 Carneros-Private Reserve $14.50; Davis Bynum 1985 Russian River Valley-Artist Series $14; Calera 1987 Mills-San Benito County $15; Chalone 1984 Chalone Vineyard $18.50; Clos du Val 1985 Napa Valley $12; Creston Manor 1988 San Luis Obispo Petit de Noir $8; Edna Valley 1985 Edna Valley $9; Firestone Vineyard 1986 Santa Ynez Valley $10; Gundlach-Bunschu 1986 Sonoma County-Rhinefarm Vineyard $9.95; Inglenook 1986 Napa Valley-Estate Reserve $10.50; Kenwood 1984 Sonoma Valley-Jack London Vineyard $15; Domaine de la Romanee-Conti 1986 La Tache $175; Mark West Vineyards 1986 Russian River-Ellis Vineyard $14; Santa Barbara Winery 1987 Santa Ynez Valley-Reserve $20; Robert Stemmler Winery 1986 Sonoma County $18; Trefethen 1986 Napa Valley $12.75; ZD 1985 Napa Valley-Carneros $14.