Recalling Yesterday in Colonial Williamsburg

James Hubard, an attorney wearing a Colonial outfit of frock coat, knee breeches and tricorn hat, may approach you on Duke of Gloucester Street. He recently opened offices here and earnestly solicits your business if you require legal counsel.

Hubard, like the blacksmiths, tavern maids, silversmiths, liverymen and Christmas carolers encountered here, is only playing a role--that of an 18th-Century resident of the Crown Colony of Virginia, England’s largest in America.

Williamsburg served as the colony’s capital for more than 75 years, growing up with stately homes and buildings, an impressive “high street,” spacious greens and the College of William and Mary, founded in 1693.

George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and Patrick Henry were among the leaders who met in its taverns to debate whether to support the “miscreant” patriots who had dumped tea into Boston’s harbor.

Today, Colonial Williamsburg is “the way it was” almost three centuries ago.

Getting here: Fly American, United, USAir, Delta or Eastern to Richmond. It’s an hour’s ride on Interstate 64 to Williamsburg. Norfolk also is a convenient arrival point, the same distance from Williamsburg as is Richmond.

How long/how much? Williamsburg will keep you moving for at least three days, perhaps four, including side trips to nearby Jamestown and Yorktown. Lodging costs in Colonial Williamsburg are moderate to expensive, with a slew of excellent motels on Richmond Road leading into town.

A few fast facts: Spring and fall are best, as mid-summer can be very crowded. Williamsburg and its homes are holiday decorated for Thanksgiving, Christmas and Independence Day.

Getting settled in: Motor House and Cascades (both near Visitors Center; $48 to $89 double occupancy, depending on season) are contemporary-style places ideal for families. The Governor’s Inn (on Virginia 132; $55-$68 double occupancy), just outside the historic area, is even more affordable.

Williamsburg Lodge (England Street; $93-$185 double occupancy, by season and location) is in the historic area, an easy walk to all the sights. While contemporary in design and furnishings, it has a warm and inviting feel in its lounge and dining room. There are two golf courses, two pools and eight tennis courts.

Regional food and drink: Talk of food invariably turns to ham, either the Smithfield type (amber colored and saltier) or the milder “country” variety, which each Virginia region cures to its own taste. We’ll settle for either at breakfast with grits and biscuits.

Capt. John Smith arrived on the banks of the nearby James River in 1607 to find that game and fish from the rivers and Chesapeake Bay were the easiest food to harvest. Try the little-neck clams, scallops, crabs, oysters and sea trout. Delectable soft-shell crabs and shad roe are available only in season.

A “made dish” (18th-Century talk for casserole) could contain just about any of the above in combination, often with ham and cream and spiked with sherry.

Good dining: One of the best buys in town is the luncheon buffet at the Williamsburg Inn. For $12.75 you’ll start at a table with a dozen seafood, ham or vegetable salads, plus potted Virginia ham and a piquant nut chutney. Then shrimp and leek soup, game casserole, baked country ham, yams, rice and a galaxy of desserts.

King’s Arms Tavern on Duke of Gloucester Street, like all of the historic district’s dining houses, dresses its waiters and waitresses in Colonial costumes to serve peanut soup, oyster stew, a tray of assorted relishes and English roast beef or a seafood casserole. Singers and musicians perform music of the Colonial period.

Nearby Shields Tavern dates from the early 18th Century, and, while its menu is not extensive, the fare is sturdy and authentic Colonial: crayfish soup, Rappahannock oysters, syllabub and Shenandoah apple pastry for dessert.

Christiana Campbell’s Tavern on Waller Street was one of George Washington’s favorite eating places. Its menu leans heavily on fresh seafood, chowders and crab cakes.

Going first-class: Williamsburg Inn ($165-$215 double) is an understated mix of Federal and Regency architecture, Colonial furnishings and fine dining rooms. It has been host to 26 heads of state from around the world, a half-dozen U.S. presidents and other notables.

The Trellis on Duke of Gloucester Street set a new style for dining in Williamsburg a decade ago. Chef-owner Marcel Desaulniers takes local fish, game, meats and produce and gives each a contemporary fillip. Tops was the grilled quail and fresh game-bird sausage with sauteed apples and onions. Monkfish with cabbage, tomatoes and hickory-smoked bacon was its equal.

On your own: The town features 88 original buildings and homes and 55 others that were reconstructed on original foundations. Don’t miss the Governor’s Palace, Peyton Randolph and George Wythe houses, and the Raleigh Tavern, where many heated meetings were held before the Revolution.

Stroll this town’s streets and gardens. Stop to watch blacksmiths, bootmakers, bakers, silversmiths and other artisans work with 18th-Century tools and techniques.

Allow time for a visit to Carter’s Grove plantation on the James River, eight miles from Williamsburg. It’s called “the most beautiful house in America” by architect-historian Samuel Chamberlain.

For more information: Call Colonial Williamsburg toll-free at (800) 447-8679 for a 28-page color booklet with map, lists of lodging and dining places. Ask for the Williamsburg package.