Shenandoah Valley Is History Buffs’ Delight

More than half of the Civil War’s battles were fought on Virginia soil, and one of the most contested parts of the state was the Shenandoah Valley, a 160-mile stretch of fertile land between the Blue Ridge and Allegheny mountains that was the breadbasket of the Confederacy.

The Shenandoah was Stonewall Jackson country and, during the 40 days of his famed Valley Campaign in the spring of 1862, he won five battles against Union forces, moving his 17,000-man “foot cavalry” more than 400 miles throughout the valley by day or night to outwit and outfight 45,000 of the enemy.

Winchester, at the northern end of the valley, changed hands 72 times during the war, and historians agree that Richmond would have fallen two years earlier without the tactics and leadership of Jackson.

The valley was considered so important to the South that 247 teen-age cadets from the Virginia Military Institute were force-marched to the Battle of New Market near here, where 10 were killed during a heroic charge to victory.

Today’s Shenandoah draws visitors with its admirable collection of pretty little Colonial towns, magnificent scenery, Civil War sites and the grandeur of a drive along Skyline Drive in the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Getting here: Fly USAir or Delta into Roanoke, then rent a car and work your way north through the valley. Or start from the top by taking one of many flights into Washington’s Dulles Airport, then drive an hour due west to the valley’s north end.

How long/how much? Give it at least three days, with stops along the way, perhaps a side trip to historic Charlottesville near the southern end of Skyline Drive. Lodging and dining prices are moderate.

A few fast facts: Come here any time except mid-winter, which is very nippy. Late spring and fall are the best.

Getting settled in: One of Jackson’s headquarters in the valley was Woodstock’s Inn at Narrow Passage (U.S. 11; $55 to $80 B&B; double). This log inn on the Shenandoah River has been a haven for visitors since it opened in 1740. It has recently been beautifully restored, retaining every bit of its Early American character and charm.

The downstairs living room has two gigantic fireplaces, deep chairs and couches, and old maps and samplers on the log walls. Jackson sat here and demanded that a map of the valley be drawn to plot his campaigns. Adjoining is the dining room with another fireplace, flowered ironstone dishes from England on rustic tables.

The Widow Kip’s Country Inn (Mt. Jackson; $58-$70 B&B; double) is a restored 1840 Colonial homestead with bric-a-brac in every corner and on the walls. Each bedroom has a fireplace, while some also have hand-carved four-posters and locally crafted quilts.

The house, set on seven acres and featuring a swimming pool, perfectly fits the words on one wall sampler: “Once upon a time there was enough time.”

Hamilton Motel & Restaurant (U.S. 11, Woodstock; $39 double) is just the place for families, all new and modern, but modest. There’s a heated swimming pool on the spacious front lawn, air-conditioning, and the restaurant sticks pretty much to basics.

Regional food and drink: Think of Virginia and the first two things that come to mind are history and ham. And not necessarily in that order.

The Shenandoah is noted for its fresh vegetables and fruit, particularly its delicious apples. Thomas Jefferson, an inveterate farmer, even grew corn in his Paris garden and shocked his French guests by serving it on the cob. Most of the produce hereabouts is prepared in similarly simple fashion, with perhaps a bit of ham or smoked bacon for flavor.

Chesapeake Bay fish and shellfish make their way fresh to tables inland, so look forward to clams, oysters, scallops and shrimp without the dispiriting taste of wet newspapers.

Virginia’s wines (many bottled at “farm wineries”) will surprise you favorably, and the Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons and Rieslings would due credit to almost any cellar.

Dining well: The Edinburg Mill (Main Street, Edinburg) was built as a grist mill in 1848. It supplied much of the Confederacy’s flour and grain and twice was set afire by Gen. Philip Sheridan’s troops. While it still bears the scars, it remained in operation until 1978.

The mill is enormous, with dining rooms running hither and yon, each holding an old mill wheel and mill machinery. The menu consists mainly of local favorites such as fried country ham with red-eye gravy, crab cakes, broiled scallops and a selection of steaks.

McSylvie’s (Main Street, Middletown) is an old bank building spruced up with bright furnishings, contemporary paintings, spinning fans hung from the tin ceiling, and harp music. The patio is used for summer dining; the old bank vault serves as a wine cellar.

The specialties here are Norwegian salmon and a fine pork loin, with a full catfish lunch going for $4.95. You might choose the shrimp stuffed with crab meat, or baked Brie in filo dough, with apples and French bread as a lighter lunch.

The Spring House (Main Street, Woodstock) is a 75-year-old home where townspeople came to draw water from the owner’s spring. For the past decade it has been a favorite with locals for its extensive menu, eclectic decor and friendly owners.

You’ll find back ribs, broiled flounder, Virginia ham, lamb chops and blackened red snapper. The salad bar is enormous, and all main courses come with a complimentary glass of cider and walnut rolls with honey butter, homemade soup and the salad bar. Prices are in the $10-$14 range.

On your own: Start with a visit to the Hall of Valor at New Market Battlefield Park, administered by Virginia Military Institute. It’s crammed with dioramas of the Civil War, with sound, original uniforms and arms, campaign maps and other memorabilia. The nearby Bushong farmhouse, around which the VMI cadets made their victorious charge, is open from mid-June to Labor Day.

Next visit Belle Grove Plantation (open April to October) near Middletown, a stately 1794 manor house and working farm that was Sheridan’s headquarters in 1864. The many rooms are exquisite examples of period furnishing, and the plantation is also a center for the study of traditional rural crafts.

Try to make time for a tour through one of the natural caverns of the valley (Shenandoah Caverns is four miles north of New Market), but certainly take time for a scenic sojourn along Skyline Drive.

For more information: Call the Virginia Division of Tourism at (804) 786-4484, or write (1021 E. Cary St., Richmond, Va. 23219) for the latest Virginia Travel Guide, a 144-page color magazine giving the state’s attractions by region.