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It’s a Suite Life Aboard Many Ships These Days

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<i> Slater and Basch are free-lance writers who live in Los Angeles</i>

About 10 years ago, the average cost per person per day on a cruise ship was about $100. It was an easy figure to remember, and many cruise veterans still use it as a base for evaluating rates.

Today, however, the average for a standard outside cabin with two lower beds is up to $265 a day per person, double occupancy.

Large cruise ships, like hotels, offer a wide range of accommodations, from the least-expensive small inside cabin on a lower deck to penthouse suites with private verandas, stocked bars and butler service.

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Such top-of-the-line quarters cost as much as $800 a day per person, double occupancy, on the Royal Viking Sea, $700 on Royal Cruise Line’s Crown Odyssey, $650 on the new Crystal Harmony and $406 to $520 on Princess Cruises’ Star Princess.

Then there are the all-suite ships that eliminate the lower-priced cabins altogether. San Francisco-based Seabourn Cruise Line, for example, has introduced the Seabourn Spirit, its second all-suite vessel, which charges a minimum per-person-per-day price from $475 in the Caribbean and Mexico to $675 in Europe and the Mediterranean.

For these prices, passengers can expect large cabins with picture windows, separate sitting area with sofa, chairs and stools, queen-size or twin beds, walk-in closet and marble bathroom with full-size tub and double sinks.

The cabins include a combination safe, hair dryer, terry-cloth robes, fully stocked bar, personalized stationery, a selection of toiletries, remote-control color TV with VCR, and a refrigerator.

There are no meal sittings or table assignments. Passengers are free to dine when and with whom they choose, or to order dinner from the restaurant menu and be served course by course in their suites.

A dinner might begin with lobster ravioli with julienne of snow peas and truffles, or poached quail eggs with caviar and dill cream, then proceed to butterfly prawns with herb garlic butter or roast loin of veal with kidneys and cognac, followed by a hot macadamia nut souffle or a collection of fresh fruit sorbets.

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From a water sports deck, a steel-mesh enclosure lowers into the sea to form a saltwater pool with its own teak sun deck. Sailboats, windsurfers, water skiers and snorkelers can also be launched from the marina deck.

A fully equipped gym, exercise room, sauna and steam room are available, as well as aerobics and stretch classes, massage and beauty services.

The ambience on board is more like a club than a ship. Formal wear is requested on some evenings, but is deemed appropriate on informal evenings, too.

There are no organized “fun and games,” no pool volleyball or bingo, no baked Alaska and midnight buffets. And instead of big, splashy revues, entertainment might include the music of Sondheim or Gershwin. In lieu of a Las Vegas-style casino, there are a couple of blackjack tables and roulette.

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