People Still ‘Take the Waters’ at Baden-Baden

Feodor Mikhailovich Dostoevski came here last century to “take the waters,” but instead got taken himself. He lost all his money at the casino tables, then retired to his hotel room to write “The Gambler.”

The Russian novelist was neither the first nor the last to succumb to the wiles of this enchanting spa town in the Black Forest.

Founded in about 80 AD by the Romans, Baden-Baden began to attract European royalty to its waters in the late 18th Century. By the time Germany became a unified state in 1871, the fetching little village had become a bastion of the belle epoque , and was known as Europe’s summer residence of the rich.

Since then, Baden-Baden has maintained its status as one of the continent’s most elegant and luxurious small resorts, a place where the “beautiful people” try to stay that way.

Apart from the curative baths and drinking waters, Baden-Baden has much to recommend it. It sits in a garland of vineyards and wine villages; there’s a horse racing track on the edge of town; Black Forest day-trips are popular, and the casino is open all night, taking bets of from $3 to $30,000 on just about any game of chance imaginable.

Getting here: Fly Lufthansa or Delta into Munich, Lufthansa or one of several American carriers into Frankfurt. From either city it’s a train ride to Baden-Baden. Air France will get you to Strasbourg, just 35 minutes across the Rhine from Baden-Baden.

How long/how much? A couple of days will do for the town, unless you’re here for spa treatments or are using Baden-Baden as a base for seeing the Black Forest. Lodging-dining costs run from high moderate to expensive.

A few fast facts: The deutsche mark recently traded at 59 cents, about 1.69 to the dollar. Baden-Baden is protected from harsh weather by surrounding small mountains, so the season runs from Easter until late November, with skiing in the Black Forest during winter.

Getting settled in: Der Quellenhof (Sophienstrasse 27; $115 low-season B&B; double, $136 high) is a contemporary hotel in the middle of town near most of the spas, and a member of the Best Western chain. It has all the big-hotel amenities, two restaurants (one vegetarian) and, while bedrooms are modern, the restaurants and public areas pick up a colorful feeling of the Black Forest.

Gasthaus zum Adler (Klosterbergstrasse 15; $65 B&B; double) sits outside town in the pretty wine village of Varnhalt, overlooking rolling vineyards. It’s a traditional house with a great deal of warmth. Typical gasthaus bedrooms have fluffy feather beds, cheerful blue curtains, showers only. There’s a TV lounge for guests.

Der Kleine Prinz (Lichtentalerstrasse 36; $118 to $162 B&B; double) is a little jewel set in a century-old building at the heart of town. While it has been open only four years, the elegant traditional furnishings create a boutique-hotel atmosphere that’s very inviting and luxurious. Service is outstanding.

Regional food and drink: Freshwater fish are more than plentiful in these parts, with brook trout a particular favorite. Hechtklosschen is a delicious croquette made of pike and noodles, served with a Riesling or dill sauce. Local kitchens also do marvelous fresh herb soups.

With the Black Forest at hand, you’ll usually find venison on menus, frequently pheasant. Rehrucken , Black Forest-style, is a saddle of venison larded with bacon and served in a cream sauce with mushrooms, cranberries and noodles. And the Schwartzwalder kirschtorte (Black Forest torte) is a cherry tart loaded with chocolate, cherry brandy, cream and butter.

Riesling wines are the choice here, while kirsch is a sneaky cherry schnapps to reckon with.

Dining well: Das Susse Lochel (center of town) has been a popular cellar restaurant since 1831, turning out typical regional food such as venison medallions with mushroom-stuffed crepes, turbot in a creamed paprika sauce and a superb gemuseplatte (vegetable plate). The atmosphere is intimate and charming; dried wildflowers on tables, huge fireplace, rustic regional furniture.

Gasthaus Adler (Varnhalt) draws a loyal crowd of locals for its great food and terrace views of the vineyards. Try the venison ragout with a juniper-cream sauce, red cabbage and homemade noodles; trout poached in Riesling, or pork tenderloin with mushrooms, grapes and cherries. Gasthaus Adler has the flavor of the Black Forest, with an English menu to help you along.

Munchner Lowenbrau at the center of town just as surely captures the Munich spirit with its simple furnishings, meandering rooms and tree-shaded, outdoor beer garden. The menu whisks you to Bavaria with lots of sausages, hearty soups, kraut, liver dumplings and grilled pork knuckles. You’ll also find the delectable Munchner weisswurst , served with sweet mustard, great breads and a frosty Lowenbrau.

Going first-class: Brenner’s Park Hotel (Lichtentaler Allee; $118-$407 double, low season, $130-$443 high) has ranked as one of Europe’s most beautiful and luxurious hotels for more than a century.

It’s known for the tranquillity of its garden, appointments and indoor pools, dining and Brenner’s Spa treatments. The spa’s seven-day beauty and health regimen costs about $2,200.

On your own: Jump right into the better-health scene and take the waters at Caracalla Therme’s (Roman Emperor Caracalla came to Baden-Baden to cure his rheumatism) seven pools and saunas. Or step next door to Friedrichsbad, built in 1869, for a 15-stage treatment. Then stop in the Trinkhalle (drinking hall) and let a few glasses of the magical waters work their wonders.

Lichtentaler Allee along the River Oos is probably one of the continent’s most delightful promenades, with oaks, magnolias, silver poplars and tulip trees in profusion.

Sporting types will find bliss and perhaps a bit of luck in the palatial Casino Baden-Baden, where the sparkling chandeliers, gilded ceilings and statuary, mirrored halls and lush carpeting have earned it acclaim as the world’s most beautiful gaming house.

For more information: Call the German National Tourist Office, 444 S. Flower St., Suite 2230, Los Angeles 90071, (213) 688-7332.