Costa Rica’s Scenic Beauty Attracts More Ships

For the past several years, more and more cruise ships have been calling in Costa Rica. While the mounting troubles of Gen. Manuel Noriega may have been partly responsible for the shift away from Panamanian ports, so many passengers reacted favorably to scenic Costa Rica that it has become a regular stop on the transcanal route.

The country’s major cruise ports, Puerto Limon on the Caribbean side and Puerto Caldera on the Pacific side, both offer day-trip access to the capital city of San Jose, tropical rain forests and active volcanos.

But a visit in more depth can be made on a 12-day voyage called “Exploring the Natural Treasures of Costa Rica” aboard Special Expeditions’ 80-passenger Polaris, which was, coincidentally, the first passenger ship to transit the Panama Canal after it was closed and reopened in December.

We joined the Polaris in Puerto Caldera a few days after that for a cruise to the country’s coastal national parks and reserves, some of them accessible only by sea. Zodiac rubber landing craft take passengers ashore at islands and isolated beaches.

Every day in Costa Rica included two or three naturalist-led excursions from the ship for hikes through lush rain forests, bird watching and photography, snorkeling among brightly colored tropical fish or strolling and shell-collecting on broad, empty beaches.

At Manuel Antonio National Park we were able to get a good look at a furry three-toed sloth feeding on leaves in a cercopia tree, a graceful study in slow-motion ballet. White-faced monkeys ceased their chattering long enough to stare solemnly down at us, while overhead scarlet macaws and fire-beaked curassows with bright, toucan-like bills darted from tree to tree.

Costa Rica has 800 bird species, plus 10% of all the world’s butterflies.

One of the most fascinating ports of call was tiny Isla del Coco, 365 miles off the mainland and only 280 miles from the Galapagos Islands. The island, covered with a rich green tangle of vine and trees, receives 25 feet of rain a year.

Ships have called there for fresh water since the early 16th Century, including several notorious pirates who are said to have buried three notable treasure caches there. None has ever been reported recovered, despite an estimated 500 treasure-digging expeditions over the years.

Daily life aboard the Polaris is comfortable and congenial. Most passengers are in their 60s and 70s, the kind of people more interested in a lecture on sea-bird migration than a game of jackpot bingo.

Dressing for dinner usually means a clean shirt and slacks, and most passengers turn in early to be ready for a sunrise beach landing and hike before returning to the ship for breakfast.

Besides a handsome, wide-windowed lounge that doubles as a lecture area with swivel chairs that revolve to the videos or slide screen, there is a quiet library with cushioned wicker armchairs, its bookshelves well stocked with bird guides and natural history references.

A 24-hour coffee- and tea-making area offers cookies, morning pastries and late-evening sandwiches for snacks. The dining room also has big windows so that passengers at mealtime don’t have to miss a chance to see a whale or group of dolphins.

Big-ship extras aboard the little Polaris include a beauty shop, sauna, shop, next-day laundry service, ship’s doctor and small hospital. The upper stern deck is canvas-shaded and is a favorite spot for readers, while a small, sunny lower deck attracts sunbathers to stretch out on lounge chairs. The bow deck and navigation bridge are open to passengers too.

While there is no swimming pool on board, the ship’s Zodiacs take passengers to beaches and for snorkeling almost every day. A glass-bottomed boat is also launched wherever there are coral reefs and tropical fish.

All of the cabins on the Polaris are comfortable, if not elaborately furnished--outsides, with lower twin beds and windows, or, on A deck, portholes, good built-in storage and hair dryers. The compact, utilitarian bathrooms contain showers and storage shelves but not tubs.

Because there is no elevator, getting around the ship involves negotiating steep stairways, so the Polaris is not suitable for people who use wheelchairs or walkers. While the ship rides fairly smoothly for its shallow draft, there are no stabilizers, which could discomfit people extremely susceptible to motion sickness.

Meals are open sitting, which means passengers have the freedom to sit where and with whom they please. At breakfast you choose from a buffet of hot and cold dishes, including fresh fruits, cereals, eggs, cheese, meats and flaky Danish pastry.

Lunch is also served buffet style, with a separate menu of a la carte dishes that can be ordered from the kitchen. Teatime includes freshly baked pastries or cookies, hot tea, iced tea or coffee. Dinner is served at the table, with appetizers, soup, a choice of main dishes, salad and dessert.

Filipino waiters and cabin stewardesses provide attentive service throughout the ship. Tips are pooled, with the recommended amount $6 per person a day. Bar prices are moderate, with cocktails and wine costing $2.50 by the glass.

The officers, hotel manager and chef are Swedish, and the ship’s registry Bahamian.

The next “Natural Treasures of Costa Rica” sailing aboard the Polaris is scheduled for April 3-14, and is priced from $3,050 to $4,750 per person, double occupancy, plus air fare, which can be arranged through Special Expeditions. Passengers will embark in Manzanillo, Mexico, and return to the United States from San Jose, Costa Rica.

In addition, a sailing in conjunction with the American Museum of Natural History, April 13-25, will carry additional special lecturers and continue through the Panama Canal and on to Aruba. This cruise will not visit Isla del Coco. For details, call Special Expeditions toll-free at (800) 762-0003.

Other cruise lines that call in Costa Rica include Windstar Sail Cruises, Royal Viking Line, Clipper Cruise Line, Costa Cruises, B.S.L. Cruises Inc. (formerly Bermuda Star Line), Holland America Line, Royal Cruise Line, Princess Cruises, Cunard Line and Regency Cruises.