Strolling Along the English Channel in Devon

From the crest of Beer Head, one could scan the horizon to the west and imagine Sir Francis Drake, Sir Walter Raleigh, Sir Martin Frobisher and Capt. James Cook sailing from Plymouth on their voyages of war, piracy and discovery.

And in a later time, the armadas bound for the beaches of Normandy during World War II.

On this bright spring morning the English Channel was clear of shipping and one could concentrate on a riot of raucous sea birds, fields of wildflowers and long vistas of woodland, pasture and beach.

Along the south coast of Devon are 100 miles or more of public footpaths, many of them bordering red chalk cliffs overlooking the sea.

Other trails veer inland through deep, narrow valleys known as combes, or coombs, and climb to upland moors and granite escarpments.

Although much of the coastline of southwest England is accessible to the backpacker or casual hiker, we preferred the channel coast of East Devon.

The climate, if not exactly Mediterranean, is usually much warmer and the terrain much less formidable than the coast fronting on the Atlantic Ocean.

Our favorite walk starts from the tower of Beer, nine miles west of Lyme Regis as the pied wagtail flies, but rather longer on the twisting seaside roads.

The hike, no longer than an hour if taken at a brisk pace, ascends to Beer Head and its spectacular view, skirts the precipitous cliffs (acrophobiacs will keep their distance) and ends at the tiny village of Branscombe, which lies a quarter-mile from the sea at the confluence of three combes.

Fortunately, much of the countryside around Branscombe is National Trust property and should remain free of development long into the future.

In the right season the valleys and stream banks are wonders of wildflowers--primroses, violets, cowslips, rock pinks, wild daffodils, purple broomrape, yellow flag irises and snowdrops.

Along the higher elevations one finds (but must not pick) an abundance of purple orchids, gorse, thistles, wild clematis, mallow and red campion.

But for every wildflower enthusiast we met on our many walks to Branscombe there was at least one bird-watcher, laboring under the burden of binoculars, cameras and a knapsack full of avian guidebooks.

Most of the common sea birds inhabit the cliffs, together with ravens, hawks, green woodpeckers and, of course, the pied wagtail.

One is also likely to encounter grazing sheep and cattle in crofts one enters over a series of stiles. The occasional badger or hare also puts in an appearance.

The pleasures of the walk do not end with one’s arrival in Branscombe, however. The Masons Arms, a thatched inn 700 years old, serves an excellent lunch five days a week, but not Monday and Saturday. The tables are set in nooks around a central fireplace and slate floors and heavy beams accent a 14th-Century atmosphere.

The village has none of the usual seaside tourist attractions. There is the odd gift shop, of course, an open forge and a bakery with a wood-burning oven.

The church, in a fold of the hills just outside the village, is Norman and retains much of its original character, despite alterations during medieval times.

Beyond that, the charms of Branscombe are its tranquillity, its narrow, ancient streets and its lanes of well-kept bungalows.

The townsfolk take obvious pride in their gardens and in the immaculate appearance of their homes. It would be difficult to find a cottage whose paint looks newer or a front door whose brass fittings shine more brightly than others along the lane.

For those prefering not to walk there and those who might want to spend more than an afternoon, Branscombe is easily reachable by road from Beer on the A3052.

Although the Masons Arms has 20 rooms at reasonable rates, there is another spot we liked, a small hotel fronting the sea. The Look Out, and it is just that, was once a complex of coast guard cottages and a lookout station.

It stands midway up a steep bluff and commands a view of the beaches, forests and meadowlands.

The owners, Peter and Dodie Leach, are responsible for the tasteful renovation of the old stone structures. Heavy oak beams, antiques and open fireplaces contrive to move guests back at least a century in time.

The Look Out is open all year and has its own pub and a first-class restaurant.

Winter rates from Nov. 1 through March 31, including a full English breakfast, are about $55 U.S. per person a day, and a discount of 10% for two days or more. The hotel does not accept credit cards but will accept “well-behaved dogs by prior arrangement.”

Reservations may be made by writing to The Look Out, Branscombe, Devon EX12 3DP, England.