Designers Come Up Short in Bermudas and Skirts for 1990
If Gianni Versace was bold enough last season to hike his hemlines 10 inches above the knee, he’s downright aggressive now, with skirts so tiny they hardly cover the wearer’s hips.
In his fall ’90 collection, shown on Sunday, the flamboyant designer and favorite son of the show-biz crowd presented a variety of abbreviated items, from derriere-hugging jersey dresses and skirts to elaborately embroidered silk cocktail mini-gowns.
For a long evening, Versace showed a floor-length dress, but it was slit straight up the leg with a plunging back line that met the slit at the waist. There, the dress was held together with a single snap. What happens if the snap pops is anybody’s guess.
There were more than a few raised eyebrows from the crowd on this first day of the four-day ready-to-wear collections, and afterward the consensus seemed to be that Versace’s short skirts were just too short.
The jeweled embroidery on some of his evening wear helped divert attention from the many bare spots in any given outfit. A tiny, A-line slip-dress became a sumptuous cocktail gown when covered with myriad shimmering crystals and pearls that formed a heart on the the bodice.
Bustiers made entirely of encrusted jewels gave substance to the micro-mini below, while simple silk stretch pants turned into sophisticated evening wear when decorated with paisley tops covered with sequins.
The newest looking jacket by Versace is loose and full with wide sleeves and generous shawl collar, in bright shades of blue, green, yellow and red--a favorite color of the designer this season.
On Sunday as well, Giorgio Armani showed his Emporio Armani collection, aimed at the younger set. It was filled with fun ideas for the chilly winter months.
Heavy knit sweaters were shown over jackets, boots reached the thigh to protect legs bared by miniskirts and Bermuda shorts, and jumpsuits were worn with a scarf tied around the waist for extra coziness.
These first two shows have been followed by others that reconfirm Italian designers’ commitment to skirts a good 3 inches above the knee, and Bermuda as well as short shorts, for winter 1990.
The shorts are loose-fitting and sporty, usually made of corduroy or light wool jersey, worn with dark or printed stockings and comfortable walking shoes. Like most of the “moda Milanese” seen this season, the look is pert rather than sexy.
Gone are the tailored city suits and elegant coats of past seasons, replaced by sweat suits, sport jackets, parkas, down and duffel coats and loads of knitwear from cozy cardigans, pullovers and sweater dresses to the brand-new all-knit jumpsuit.
Colors range from the browns and reds of autumn leaves to the icy beige, green and blue pastel shades of a winter landscape.
Three of the collections shown on Monday--Krizia, Missoni and Byblos--are longtime experts in the field of chic sportswear.
Krizia, by Mariuccia Mandelli, featured a soft and casual look with natural shoulder lines, brief hemlines and loose-fitted waistlines. Jackets tended to be oversized with huge shawl collars, rounded hemline and drawstring waist. Krizia also offered cozy bathrobe coats with silk cord monk belts.
For weekend wear, Krizia showed a series of quilted items from long down coats and duffel coats to pert quilted miniskirts.
Most seasons Krizia makes use of a jungle-animal motif to adorn pullovers and sweaters. But for next winter the designer steals cherubs from a Renaissance painting and prints them on her soft cashmere pullovers and short sweater dresses. White horses and imperial eagles also adorn many of her outfits.
To dress up her sporty look, Krizia’s Mandelli embroidered gold onto lapels, hemlines and cuffs.
Since last winter, the Italian designers have promoted the anti-fur movement by replacing their once-sumptuous furs with exquisite look-alikes in teddy-bear plush. Thus the Krizia customer can flaunt her tiger, leopard or brightly dyed beaver outerwear, knowing its all just fluff.
Missoni has been the leading label for Italian knitwear ever since the company presented reversible knit and quilted jackets, several decades ago. But the latest collection, entirely dedicated to the Soviet Union, is one of the best in seasons.
Beautiful reversible coats and parkas are knitted in patterns of Russian folk art: the “onion” spires of Red Square, the quaint houses of a Russian village, the geometric designs of a carpet. The same patterns appear on knitted jumpsuits and sweat pants, as well as silk evening outfits.
Later in the day on Monday, Keith Varty and Alan Cleaver for Byblos presented their version of the sporty winter woman.
True to their British blood, the designers dressed her in favorite items from their native countryside: riding jackets with velvet collars, riding breeches, and blouses complete with ascot tie. Lace embroidery added a feminine touch to the look.
For languid hours by the fire of a ski lodge, Byblos offered heavy knit pullovers in ivory-white with large rose patterns, and cable-knit Irish sweaters.
Speaking of skiing, the Byblos ski parkas with string-tie and fur-trimmed hood in icy beige or blue are sure to be a hot item on the slopes from Aspen to St. Moritz.
