Summer Storms Add Drama to Hike in Rockies

David Goldblum spent much of last summer in some harrowing conditions at Rocky Mountain National Park.

High above the eastern Colorado plains near the tree line in the Rocky Mountains, Goldblum tramped 14,255-foot Longs Peak while working as a student researcher for the University of Colorado. Five days a week he made the eight-mile trek from Keyhole to study the regeneration process of limber pines at high altitude.

At times, lugging chain saws and measuring instruments up the steep incline was tortuous in the dry, choking air. The trail’s vertical ascent is 4,700 feet, and rangers say the trek takes 12 hours round trip.

But they were days that Goldblum welcomed. The discomforts did little to spoil the romanticism of working in the wilds. But there were times when youthful exuberance was swept aside by summer storms.

Longs Peak rises out of the glades like a gigantic Greek colonnade made of jumbled ashen rock. As the tallest summit for miles, it is a magnet to storms. To be caught in one near the summit is a precarious experience.

“One day, one beautiful day, we were working with the trees when a tremendous hail storm struck,” Goldblum recalled.

The thunder and lightning show was spectacular, but would have been safer at a lower elevation. Standing on the barren, rocky ridge was frightening and dangerous. The thunder boomed across the eastern range of the Continental Divide and the air was electric.

“As soon as we saw the clouds heading our way, we dropped the equipment and ran for cover,” Goldblum said while leading friends on a hike in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The park’s lure is its 355 miles of hiking trails that crisscross the high country.

Meandering U.S. 34 connects Estes Park with Grand Lake on the 50-mile Trail Ridge Road, considered one of the world’s great high roads. But hiking, particularly in late summer and early autumn, is the best way to see the park.

The most memorable vistas turn up during backbreaking treks over snake-like foot paths. But good views in the Rockies can also be enjoyed on some of the park’s half-day and two-hour hikes.

We discovered the secrets of the area one day late last August after driving here from Boulder, about 40 miles.

It was one of those unforgettable late-summer mornings in the mountains. But Goldblum was not fooled and began talking about the violent storms that turn such beautiful mornings into dark, tempestuous afternoons. He took inventory: wool socks, rain gear, long pants and enough food . . . just in case.

I humored him, but the day was bright and beautiful. Why worry about inclement weather?

By the time we had driven to the Estes Park entrance that cloudless sky had blackened. Goldblum kept an eye on the clouds. I was too enthralled with the scenery to pay heed.

Soon, however, the first big raindrops splashed on the windshield.

Goldblum’s first lesson was learned quickly: Even in late summer, be prepared for dramatic weather changes when hiking here. The day before had been sweltering with high humidity. Fast-moving storms suddenly appear with drenching rain, hail and even snow, because many of the trails, even the short ones, start above 8,000-feet.

The idea of a full-day’s hike was abandoned, but we were undeterred. Even a short, steep hike would give us a taste of the park, and we calculated we could go about five miles before the heavens opened. So we parked off the road and found a branch of a trail to Bierstadt Lake, one of the Bear Lake Country trails in the heart of the Rockies’ front range. About 11 glacial lakes are easily reached from here, including Bear Lake at 9,475 feet.

The flat Bear Lake Trail is a self-guided walk of half a mile and offers a nice view of Longs Peak. You can buy a booklet summarizing the region’s geology, wildlife and foliage in the parking area adjacent to the lake. A shuttle bus stops there for easy access.

Although we started in tank-tops and shorts--it was summer, after all--we added layers of clothing as needed. Staying warm is essential when hiking. The extra clothing allowed us to continue comfortably and enjoy our surroundings.

As we made our ascent we stopped periodically to marvel at the flora. A stand of quaking aspens shimmered in the wind, the waving leaves turning the ridge into a pattern of gold on green.

As we continued, discussing the various forests, Goldblum pointed to a grotesquely crooked tree, the result of fierce winds that cause what is known as a “Krummholz effect.”

The trees are stunted into bush-like forms because of genetic and environmental conditions, scientists believe. Branches and leaves grow only on the side protected from the winds. Although misshapen by years of howling gales, the trees persevere.

As the trail flattened, we wandered capriciously through the thicket toward Bierstadt Lake, about 1 1/2 miles from Bear Lake. In early summer these lakes teem with mosquitoes, but by August their numbers have decreased.

After resting at Bierstadt we followed the rocky trail downward to Bear Lake, where all visitors are greeted by the extroverted Clark’s nutcracker. The large gray, black and white jays often are the closest tourists get to the park’s wildlife.

The birds, named after William Clark of the Lewis and Clark expedition, have long bills used to extract seeds from pine cones. But they willingly taste whatever morsel is offered. Although rangers ask visitors not to feed the wildlife, many cannot resist the temptation; the Clark’s nutcracker will eat out of your hand.

Casual hikers who want to tackle a bit more than the half-mile loop around Bear Lake can walk to Nymph Lake on a well-marked trail. Rangers say it is one of the park’s most heavily used footpaths. Start early to avoid crowds.

Also, the chances of seeing spectacular mirror-like reflections on the lakes are better before the winds converge. From there, more ambitious hikers can continue to Dream and Emerald lakes. Emerald is 1.8 miles from Bear Lake.

A mile south of Bear Lake we came to Alberta Falls. About a mile farther on the path connects with North Longs Peak Trail. Goldblum said that climbing Longs, the park’s highest peak (14,255 feet), is one of the most popular hikes for serious backpackers. Rangers warn that technical equipment sometimes is necessary. Camping is available just below the summit in a big rock field, but most make it a day trip.

Goldblum said hikers often leave at 5 a.m. to avoid the afternoon storms. They arrive before noon, then make their descent without the fear of being hit by lightning.

With the rumble of thunder in the background, we decided to return to our car and drive the ridge road to the Alpine Visitor Center, at 11,796 feet. We wanted to watch the storm rage along the Continental Divide.