White-Water Journey Back in Time

“The River of No Return,” they call it, and for good reason.

Almost a century ago, shortly after Idaho attained statehood in 1890, the first commercial trip was made down the Salmon River.

A group of Montana hunters and fishermen commissioned Harry Guleke, one of the river’s pioneers, to transport them by water into the Idaho wilderness. Guleke knew how treacherous the Salmon could be and realized that a special craft would be required.

What he designed became the prototype for decades to come and the inspiration for a three-week, 375-mile river journey this summer commemorating the Idaho Centennial.

Welcome to the world of the flat-bottom boat.

Pondering just how to get the Montanans down the river safely, Guleke hit upon the idea of a sturdy wooden scow eight feet wide, 30 feet long and four feet deep. The boat was steered by huge, wooden, sweep oars fore and aft, each requiring more than a little muscle-power.

It was a craft capable of handling the turbulent, white-water stretches of the Salmon as well as its more placid reaches. For more than 40 years, flatboats plied the river, supplying mining camps, remote settlements and homesteaders.

The only problem was, the boats were too heavy and too unwieldy to make the return journey by water or land. As a result, once they reached their destination they were broken up and the lumber was used for other purposes.

Hence the name: “The River of No Return.” The passengers and crew may have returned, but the boats never did.

This summer, from June 16 to July 7, river-runners who want to journey back in time half a century or more can travel by flatboat as part of the state’s centennial float trip.

A replica of Guleke’s craft has been built in Salmon, Ida., and will be the flagship of the commemorative float, which also will feature native canoes, historic dories, rubber rafts and kayaks.

Organized by the Idaho Outfitters and Guides Assn., the three-week journey can be taken as a whole or in portions as short as a single day.

The Salmon is the longest free-flowing river in the continental United States and the 375-mile trip will begin in the town of Stanley, Ida., near the river’s headwaters, and end in Lewiston, Ida., below the point where the Salmon and Snake rivers merge in Hells Canyon.

The highlight of the trip is the 78-mile passage through the river’s Wild and Scenic stretch, an area accessible only by boat or by bush plane to isolated airstrips.

During the 21-day journey, stops are planned at native Indian sites, early pioneer settlements and old mining camps, as well as at such towns as Challis, Salmon and Riggins, where centennial celebrations will include parades, barbecues, craft fairs, bonfires, sing-alongs and historical reenactments.

The flatboat will carry about 10 rafters at a time, will be rotated from other craft participating in the float trip, so that a total of about 1,200 will be able to experience a flatboat ride.

Space still is available for some segments of the journey. The cost per day is about $75.

The six-day Wild and Scenic segment is $950, and the number of participants on it will be limited because of U.S. Forest Service environmental regulations.

Other longer runs are from two to five days. Overnights will vary from lodges along the river to wilderness tents. Meals will be provided.

White-water rafting experience is not required to participate, but good physical condition is essential to cope with the sometimes long and turbulent days. Because of its width and length, the flatboat is basically stable and the sweeps will be handled by experienced river guides.

There will be only one flatboat trip. Once the journey is over, the craft will go on display in the town of Salmon.

For flatboat commemorative trip reservations and more information, call the Idaho Outfitters and Guides Assn. at (208) 342-1431.

More than 125 member organizations of the association offer boating trips on the Salmon and about two dozen other Idaho rivers.

This year, because of the below-normal winter snowpack, trips on the Salmon will start as early as June 5. When the winter snowfall is heavier, road access to the river can be a problem in June and there are increased dangers because the water level is higher.

Rafting trips generally continue through September.

Of the two dozen rivers in Idaho, the most popular for raft trips are the Salmon, Snake, Selwayl, Payette, Lochsa and Owyhee.

For a free, illustrated 168-page “Outdoor Idaho Experiences” directory listing the state’s various rafting companies and the trips they offer, call (208) 342-1919.