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FASHION : Forget Melrose: La Brea’s Rising as the ‘90s Avenue

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Ten years ago it was nothing but a dusty strip, dotted with carpet stores and car dealerships. Even as recently as five years ago it was more a hope than a promise. But this spring, a walk along La Brea Avenue would convince the most diffident critics. The street has been transformed.

The first signs of serious change came in 1985 when American Rag, which sells new and vintage fashions, and City, the elegantly informal restaurant, opened just a few doors and a few months apart. That winning combination was enough to pique the interest of retailers and restaurateurs with a spirit of adventure.

One after another, small-business owners and small-scale designers--from hat makers and dressmakers to vintage furniture dealers--ventured into the area. Now, the blocks of La Brea between Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards are some of the most talked about in town. They are to the ‘90s what Melrose Avenue was to the ‘80s: an emerging center with an up-to-the-minute sense of style.

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Not surprisingly, the first blocks of La Brea to be redeveloped have been those closest to Melrose. But from the beginning, La Brea residents established their own image. So far they’ve avoided the flashy neon signs and the hodgepodge of architectural styles of Melrose, opting for a more mature look that is closer to classical.

Many of the original Deco buildings on the street have been restored. And some new facades are minimalistic architectural statements in poured concrete. Charming awnings shade the street, and well-designed signs give a caringly refurbished feeling to the area.

The rents are lower than on Melrose, where retail store space goes for about $3.50 a square foot. (La Brea prices range from $1.50 to $2.50 a square foot.) Clothing prices are comparable to those in the better Melrose shops ($50 to $500 on average).

The outdoor, antidote-to-mall aspects of La Brea shopping are part of the area’s appeal. This is an open-air, walking experience.

Clothing stores tend to cluster. American Rag, American Rag Youth and Colors are all close to Melrose. Several blocks south there is another enclave that includes Jennifer Joanou and Patina, two designer shops, and Charlie, which offers vintage clothing. Farther south is Icons, filled with romantic modern fashions for men and women, much of the merchandise Los Angeles designer labels. A new addition to the street is Jadss, a hair and body-care salon headed by Sassoon-trained stylists.

Parachute, the high fashion store whose original outlet is in Montreal, is closer to Wilshire Boulevard. And around the corner on 6th Street is an eccentric coffeehouse, The Pikme-Up, where the action starts after 6 p.m.--when most of the stores are closing.

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La Brea’s shop owners find the street attracts a particular clientele. Tony Delcrezea, manager of Charlie, says: “La Brea is more like an art form. It’s different from Melrose. People who come here are into world peace and Greenpeace rather than just rock ‘n’ roll.”

Laura Gray, manager of American Rag says, “La Brea attracts people who like to discover things.” Her store carries everything from vintage religious robes to neo-’60s stretch pants. The store’s owners, Margo and Mark Werts, recently opened Colors as well. It is filled with merchandise priced under $20, some of it mark-down items from the American Rag store.

“You can make some real finds here. The quality is lower but so are the prices,” says Gray.

Fashion designer Jennifer Joanou, who now has her own La Brea boutique, has an entirely different philosophy. She calls her concept nouvelle couture. Customers can buy off-the-rack styles or order custom-made duplicates in other fabrics.

“La Brea is about creative people breaking the rules, and it attracts that kind of customer,” says Joanou, who opened her store five months ago. In her shop and studio with its in-house seamstresses and pattern makers, the decor is modern baroque.

“Everyone here has a specific vision, whether it’s home design, food or fashion, but the quality level on the street is consistently high.”

For spring, Joanou’s cabbage rose print dresses pick up the muted solid colors of her soft and easy sportswear priced from $100 to $350, alterations included.

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Within walking distance is Patina, the bucolic fantasy of owners Jodi Bentsen and Katrin Noon. Romantic handmade hats are their specialty, and their fanciful tastes are also apparent in the profusion of antiques, ceramics, jewelry and dried floral wreaths and bouquets. Recently the store added the Angel Heart clothing collection.

Business has been “way beyond our dreams,” says Bentsen. “We just quit our part-time jobs.”

If there is a complaint to be made about LaBrea it has to do with parking. Street parking is available but is illegal between 4 and 6 p.m. Violators do get towed.

SHOPPER’S GUIDE

* Jennifer Joanou, 156 N. La Brea Ave., (213) 937-3693. Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-6 p.m.

* Patina, 119 N. La Brea Ave., (213) 931-6931, Wed.-Sat., 12-6 p.m.

* Charlie, 115 N. La Brea Ave., (213) 931-2486, Mon.-Sat., 12-7 p.m., Sun. 12-5 p.m.

* Icons, 633 N. La Brea Ave., (213) 934-2763, Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun. 12-6 p.m.

* Parachute, 844 N. La Brea Ave., (213) 461-8822, Mon.-Sat., 12-8 p.m., Sun., 12-5 p.m.

* American Rag, 150 N. La Brea Ave., (213) 935-3154, Mon.-Sat., 12-7 p.m., Sun., 12-7 p.m.

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