Multicontrasts Help Define Tale of One Country : India: As with many countries, regional variations abound. Life in the south differs significantly from the north. Understanding those differences can make travel a lot easier.

Recognizing regional differences in countries can enhance your travel experiences. Perhaps nowhere is this more evident than in India.

“One of the most important things visitors here should realize is just how different we are from North India,” said Girija Duraiswamy, a tour guide in the South India city of Madras.

The key difference is language. Although English is spoken to some extent throughout India, Hindi is the primary language in the north. The southern languages, part of the separate Dravidian language group, are Tamil, Kannada, Telegu and Malayalam.

South India is considered more traditional than the north in its practice of Hinduism. Many travelers are uncertain what questions are proper to ask on this subject.

“It’s OK to ask someone if they are a Hindu or not,” Duraiswamy said. “You can also ask what caste they are.”

Cuisine in the south is different as well, with vegetarian fare common. Most Western-style hotels will offer both non-vegetarian and vegetarian cuisine. Both styles of food can be quite hot, depending on which and how many spices are used.

South India temples, which include some of the world’s most distinctive religious architecture, are also quite different from the temples of North India.

Huge gateways, some that rise as high as 10 stories with virtually every inch covered with bas-reliefs of gods and goddesses, attendants and assorted creatures, hover over many of the temples in the south.

Reading the signs at the temples is important. Some of the inner sanctums or sanctuaries are off-limits to non-Hindus.

“Travelers should be prepared to take off their shoes when entering the temples, and they can’t carry their shoes in with them in bags,” Duraiswamy said. “Also, there’s no smoking on temple grounds.”

If you want protection for your feet, take along a second pair of socks/stockings. Some travelers use the slipovers provided to passengers by airlines.

In addition, signs call for a small fee to take pictures.

“You’re really on the honor system,” Duraiswamy said. “Sometimes people who have not paid this fee decide to take pictures on the spur of the moment. There have been cases of Indians coming up to tourists when they see them using their cameras and asking for money as if they represented the temple.”

In one such situation a traveler who took a picture without paying was told by an unauthorized person that the camera could be taken away or to pay 500 rupees, when, in fact, the fee was less than 10 rupees.

“Don’t hand over money to just anyone,” Duraiswamy said.

To get the most out of temple excursions, travelers should do their homework. Hindu priests, as a blessing, may offer to put ash on foreheads. Although the ash is easily washed off, if you’re not interested, just move aside.

Be careful about buying items around the temple grounds. “Some of the snakeskin items sold by vendors are fake,” Duraiswamy said. “I’ve seen travelers bargain vendors down on some purchases, only to return to their hotels and find that their items were plastic.”

Buying “antiques” is another risk.

“Some items are fake,” Duraiswamy said. “They’ve been buried in the ground to age them, and polished with sandpaper. If it is a real antique it can’t be sold openly and you can’t take it out of India without permission. Your best bet is to buy at the government emporiums, where you have fixed prices for reliable merchandise.”

You should also exercise care when buying soft drinks. “Americans tend to overreact to the threat of disease, but you should look at soft drink bottles to see if there’s any sediment at the bottom of the bottle, and if the cap is firmly on and not rusted, and if the bottle is cold.”

How to handle the beggars that approach visitors at temples is another troublesome issue for many travelers.

“You really shouldn’t give money unless they’re blind or physically handicapped,” Duraiswamy said. “You can always carry a small supply of candies and ballpoint pens.”

Now that Hertz has signed an agreement with an Indian transport company, many more travelers are likely to visit South Indian temples while driving rental cars.

Outlets are available in Madras, Hyderabad and Bangalore in South India, as well as in the North India cities of Bombay, Calcutta and New Delhi. There are no drop-off privileges; you must return the car to the same station where you picked it up.

For more information on car rentals in India, call the Hertz International Desk toll-free at (800) 654-3001.

The Indian system of driving is the same as in Great Britain, on the left-hand side of the road. Be cautious while driving because residents tend to make rapid turns and passes.

Many travelers still rely on driver/guides, which is a good way to get the most out of any visit.

“If you’re using the services of a driver/guide for several days, it’s a good idea to give him a tip up front,” Duraiswamy said. “The standard of living is low, and he has to eat outside of his home during this period.”

Home visits are also growing in popularity. If you’re interested in visiting an Indian family, contact the Government of India Tourist Office in Los Angeles or the tourist office in the city you visit.

“Let us know if you have any special interest or want to meet people in your same field,” Devika Nair, director of the India Tourist Office in Los Angeles, said. “When we have the dates of your visit, we might also be able to arrange attendance at an Indian wedding. These are very interesting ceremonies.”

Here are some general do’s and don’ts for home visits:

--Avoid being dressed too sloppily. “Men should shave, and women should avoid low-cut outfits,” Duraiswamy said. “Indians tend to be modest. Expect to take your shoes off at the entrance to homes.”

--While it isn’t necessary, it’s a good gesture to take an inexpensive gift such as candy, cosmetics or flowers.

--Try to accept foods that you are offered and finish them if possible.

If you’re concerned about eating unfamiliar foods, politely explain that your stomach is queasy. At one home I drank tea, while skipping cookies and other sweets.

Similarly, you can ask for a hot drink if you’re uneasy about drinking water. Indians tend to eat with their fingers, but it’s not impolite to ask for a spoon or fork.

--While English will be spoken at any home you visit, not everyone in the household will necessarily be conversant in English or at the same level of linguistic proficiency. “Try to speak without using slang or colloquialisms,” suggested Romesh Magati, a tour guide in Bangalore.

--Ask if you can smoke. “It’s better if women don’t smoke, as this can be considered questionable behavior even though they are foreigners,” said Duraiswamy. “Only the most sophisticated Indian women smoke.”

Also, if you’re flying on Indian Airlines, make sure you reconfirm your flights and check the schedule before leaving for the airport. Delays are frequent.

For more information on travel to India, contact the Government of India Tourist Office, 3550 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 204, Los Angeles 90010; (213) 380-8855.