Abboud Takes On Classics in a Big Way

Men’s wear designer Joseph Abboud takes his cues from the classics, but breaks from tradition with size and texture.

Named the men’s wear designer of the year for 1990 by the Council of American Fashion Designers, Abboud recently spent a day at Gary & Co. in Newport Beach.

Talking about his style, he says he designs men’s clothes in soft, draped shapes, with jackets that are looser and easier fitting than classic men’s wear.

“Oversize is now infiltrating the ranks of the die-hard Brooks Bros. customers,” he says. When something’s bigger it is more comfortable, Abboud says, “but it still needs shape and construction. That’s where it’s going to start coming into play in the more traditional market.

“We try to break down the boundaries of the Ivy League,” says Abboud, who formerly worked with Polo Ralph Lauren and Barry Bricken before starting his own company, J. A. Apparel of New York. “We’re saying, ‘Don’t be so up-tight about your clothing.’ It’s fun to dress up a little differently.”

In his spring collection, Abboud gave a nod to the 1930s with big lapels and wide ties. The look is rich and full, and there’s no skimping on fabric.

Softer fabrics--washed linens, silk, wools and cottons--complement the looser fit and add to the draped look.

The shoulders are bigger, too, but, Abboud points out, not more square. “We just extended the natural shoulder.”

Abboud uses lighter canvas to line the chest and lapel to get a freer fit while maintaining a constructed look. “It takes more structure to make less structure,” Abboud says. “You have to make the garment better.”

While some may see some similarities to Ralph Lauren’s designs, Abboud is quick to point out the European flavor in his clothing. “No one does Ralph Lauren better than Ralph Lauren,” he says. “I take a little more international approach, a little more European in spirit.”

As an example, Abboud points to his color combinations, using “traditional colors in an untraditional way,” such as black with tan or navy with brown.

In Southern California, Abboud’s clothes are available at Neiman Marcus, I. Magnin and Gary & Co. in Newport Beach.