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Getting to Greece’s Island in the Sun

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Getting there: Major carriers flying to Athens include TWA, Pan Am and Olympic (which has arrangements with domestic airlines for the Los Angeles-New York leg of the trip). TWA and Pan Am are quoting a summer round-trip fare of $970 for a 30-day advance-purchase, nonrefundable ticket that permits a stay of 7 to 21 days.

Travelers can reach Sifnos by ferry from the port of Piraeus, a 30-minute subway (about 45 cents) or taxi ride ($5) from downtown Athens. If you plan to return to Athens, you may prefer to head to the island with just a light bag. Many hotels will allow you to leave luggage with them, particularly if you plan an overnight stay upon your return.

Be sure, however, to take a sweater or light jacket because evenings can be on the cool side.

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The frequency of boats to Sifnos varies throughout the year, depending on demand. During summer, about five departures weekly. Travel time is typically five to six hours, and the tourist-class fare one way is about $14. Snacks and light meals are available on board, but you may wish to buy fresh fruit, bottled mineral water or other food items for the voyage at one of the port-side markets in Piraeus.

Accommodations: Centrally situated Apollonia has the most hotels and guest houses. Expect to pay generally from $15 to $30 a night, double occupancy, for simple hotel and pension accommodations, although rooms in private houses tend to be at the less expensive end of the range. During high season (July and August), rates will likely be anywhere from 10% to 50% more.

Accommodations: The low-season rate for the Hotel Sifnos, where we stayed, is about $18.75; high-season $31.25. The most expensive accommodations on Sifnos are at the modern Hotel Platy Yialos on the beach; rates from $42 (low season, double) to $51 (high season, double). Hotel rooms are also available in Kamares and Artemona. Rooms in private houses in the Kastro and at the village of Faros.

Getting around: Motorbikes and mopeds are the easiest way to get around, and can be rented at Kamares and Apollonia. Prices range from about $12 to $20 a day. There is also bus service on paved roads between all major points on the island.

Dining: Food on Sifnos is traditional rustic Greek cuisine. A meal with wine will cost $7 to $15.

When to go: Summer is the most popular season, and so in August even Sifnos may be slightly crowded.

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Like the other Cycladic islands, its typically Mediterranean climate makes for hot, dry, usually sunny days and pleasantly cool nights during this season.

Late spring and early fall are good times to visit, but the weather from November through April can be decidedly chilly.

More information: Contact the Greek National Tourist Organization, 611 West 6th St., Suite 1198, Los Angeles 90017, (213) 626-6696.

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