Fresh Greens Help Lighten Up Meals
Summer food typically means berries, corn, sun-ripened tomatoes and fragrant peaches. But some of summer’s most wonderful foods are generally taken for granted. This is a shame, for while greens are available year-round, they are at their best in summer when they are young and tender.
From a culinary point of view, greens have another advantage: They are the one ingredient that can be counted on to transform the heartiest dishes into light, appealing summer fare.
As a broad category greens encompass many types: leafy green spinach, lettuce--Boston, bibb, Romaine, chicory--and bitter greens, such as dandelions, mustards and arugula. They range from sweet to bitter in taste, from tender to firm in texture, from very light to very dark in color.
You’ll discover that adding greens is easy and introduces new dimensions to many dishes. Recipes are hardly necessary to take advantage of the greens now in the marketplace; just add them, singly or in combination, to recipes or salads for lively new tastes. The Tucci Milan pizza, and the lamb and sausage loaf with greens, both seemingly hearty dishes, are significantly lightened by the addition of greens and should stimulate more ideas for incorporating greens into cooking. The Asian stir-fried fish on mixed greens is a different, but equally delicious, approach. And to serve greens on their own, simply saute them in olive oil with lots of minced garlic.
Here, chilled bitter and sweet greens are tossed with an Asian vinaigrette and topped with hot stir-fried fish, making a sensational summer supper dish. Tilefish or catfish, both firm and sweet fleshed, are ideal; monkfish or even scallops would work well, too. For dinner, serve with side dishes of steamed asparagus and hot noodles tossed with seared onion slices.
ASIAN STIR-FRIED FISH ON MIXED GREENS
6 cups roughly cut greens (mix of dandelion, arugula, bibb, Boston), packed
6 medium green onions, thinly sliced
2 medium carrots, peeled and finely shredded
Asian Dressing
1 large tilefish or catfish fillets (1 pound), cut into 1-inch cubes
Salt
Red pepper flakes
Cilantro leaves
Mint sprigs
Combine mixed greens, green onions and carrots in large mixing bowl. (Greens can be mixed day ahead and refrigerated, tightly covered.)
Heat 3 tablespoons Oriental Dressing in large, non-stick skillet over medium high heat. Season fish to taste with salt and red pepper flakes. When dressing is very hot, stir-fry half of fish until just done, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook. Set aside with pan juices. Repeat with remaining fish using another 3 tablespoons dressing.
To serve, gently toss chilled greens with remaining dressing. Adjust seasonings to taste. Divide salad between 4 chilled serving plates. On each salad, arrange equal portions of fish drizzled with pan juices. Garnish with cilantro and mint sprigs. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.
Asian Dressing
1 large clove garlic, peeled
1 small piece peeled ginger root (1-inch diameter by 1/2-inch thick)
1/3 cup cilantro leaves
1/3 cup mint leaves
1/3 cup rice vinegar
1/3 cup orange juice
7 tablespoons safflower oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Red pepper flakes
Mince garlic, ginger, cilantro and mint leaves together in food processor or blender. Add vinegar, orange juice, oils, sugar and salt. Mix well. Season to taste with red pepper flakes. (Dressing can be made day ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight.)
Here, mustard greens and spinach leaves lighten up the look and taste of meat loaf, making it a perfect option for picnics. As all meat loaf aficionados know, leftovers make the best sandwiches. The use of a food processor makes this dish even easier.
LAMB AND SAUSAGE MEAT LOAF WITH GREENS
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
3 large cloves garlic, minced
4 large green onions, thinly sliced
2 medium stalks celery, chopped
1 cup spinach leaves, packed
1 cup mustard greens, roughly cut, packed
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 pounds very lean ground lamb
12 ounces breakfast sausage
3/4 cup soft bread crumbs
2 large eggs
3/4 cup catsup
2 tablespoons milk
1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Freshly ground pepper
Heat butter in large non-stick skillet over medium high heat. Add garlic, green onions, mustard greens, celery, spinach leaves and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Saute until tender, about 6 minutes, stirring often. Transfer to large mixing bowl. Let cool slightly.
Add ground lamb, sausage, bread crumbs, eggs, 1/4 cup catsup, milk, Worcestershire, cumin, red pepper flakes and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt to vegetables. Season to taste with pepper. Mix thoroughly.
Transfer to 13x9-inch baking pan. Pat into 8x6-inch oval shape, gently pressing with hands to compact loaf as much as possible. (Dish can be prepared day ahead to this point. Cover tightly and refrigerate.)
Spread loaf with remaining 1/2 cup catsup. Bake in center of oven at 375 degrees. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Summer or winter, this pizza with arugula salad, mozzarella, Calamata olives and roasted garlic from Tucci Milan in Chicago is one of the best I’ve tasted. Although Joe Decker, executive chef/partner of Lettuce Entertain You, and Troy Tomlinson, Tucci Milan chef, could not reveal their thin pizza crust secrets, the rest of the pizza runs true to their form. The roasted garlic and mozzarella base is the perfect foil for the bright, bitter arugula greens that are tossed in lemon juice and olive oil, then arranged with chopped Calamata olives on the cooked pizza. Refrigerating the dough after rising helps in rolling it very thin.
TUCCI MILAN’S PIZZA MONTENAPOLEONE
1 head garlic, cloves peeled
1/2 cup plus 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
Pizza Dough
Freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 cups grated low-fat mozzarella cheese
2 cups roughly cut arugula leaves, packed
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped Calamata olives
Place oven rack in center of oven. Line oven rack with quarry tiles or pizza stone, if using. About 20 minutes before baking pizzas, preheat oven at 500 degrees, or at highest oven temperature.
Place garlic cloves and 1/2 cup olive oil in small oven-proof dish. Bake at 400 degrees until tender, about 15 minutes. Do not let brown. Let cool 10 minutes. Use slotted spoon to remove cloves from oil. Puree in small food processor or blender with 4 tablespoons oil (use rest for salads or cooking).
Divide roasted garlic puree between pizza doughs. Spread as evenly as possible to about 1-inch of dough edge. Season to taste with pepper. Divide mozzarella, sprinkling evenly over garlic. Bake until lightly browned on edges, about 3 to 5 minutes directly on tiles or about 7 to 8 minutes in pizza pans.
Meanwhile, toss arugula leaves in lemon juice and remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil. When pizzas are baked, cut each into 10 slices but keep in original circle. Garnish with arugula. Dot with chopped olives. Serve immediately. Makes 2 (12-inch) pizzas.
Pizza Dough
Cornmeal or semolina
1 package dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup warm water (105-115 degrees)
3 cups flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
Grease 2 (12-inch) pizza pans, preferably black steel. Sprinkle with cornmeal. (If using pizza peel sprinkle with semolina and bake pizzas directly on tiles. )
In large bowl, stir yeast and sugar into warm water. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add flour, olive oil and salt. Mix until dough is smooth and elastic, about 1 minute in food processor, about 6 minutes with dough hook and 10 minutes by hand.
Transfer dough to large plastic food bag. Squeeze out air and twist-tie at top. Place bag in bowl. Let rise in warm place (oven with pilot or electric oven preheated 1 minute and turned off is ideal warmth) until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch dough down. (Dough can be used now or refrigerated up to 4 days in plastic bag.)
Divide dough in half and let rest 15 minutes. Roll each piece on floured board to about 11-inch-diameter circle. Let rest several minutes, then roll or use fingers to press into 12-inch circle. Place on prepared peel or pan. Makes 2 (12-inch) round pizza doughs.