How Green Is the Valley? : <i> When nothing will do but the Valley best, the San Fernando Valley, that is.</i>

Best Ambiance: Saddle Peak Lodge, 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas. (818) 340-6029. Style: Mountaintop retreat serving good game. Setting: Ralph Lauren meets L.L. Bean. Recommended: Venison, rack of lamb, sweetbreads. Cost per person: $35-$50.

Best Deli: Art’s Deli, 12224 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 762-1221. Style: Huge sandwiches at popular prices. Setting: Formica and Naugahyde. Recommended: Corned beef sandwich, pastrami sandwich, chicken soup. Cost per person: $10-$15.

Best Lovely Lunch: Bistro Garden, 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 501-0202. Style: The Valley branch of the Beverly Hills institution where service is top priority. Setting: High ceilings, fresh flowers, and lights that make you look good. Recommended: Celery root salad, chicken burger, pig’s knuckles. Cost per person: $20-$45.

Best Singles Dining: Stanley’s, 13817 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 986-4623. Style: Noisy California for Valley girls. Setting: White walls, concrete tables, acrylic nails. Recommended: Cajun meat loaf, warm scallop salad, margaritas. Cost per person: $12-$20.

Best Sushi: Sushi Nozawa, 11288 Ventura Blvd., Unit C, Studio City. (818) 508-7017. Style: For those serious about their sushi. Setting: Mini-mall bright. Recommended: Tuna, mayonnaised scallops, giant clam. Cost per person: $15-$25.