Mon Kee--Reclaiming Old Glory

There was a time in the late ‘70s and early ‘80s, when clams with black bean sauce were considered exotic, when only so-called “adventurous” eaters would order pan-fried squid, and when Mon Kee was the only good Chinese seafood restaurant in Los Angeles.

Since then, the San Gabriel Valley has become the place to go for Chinese seafood, and Chinatown’s Mon Kee might be only the 25th most interesting place to get live crab or shrimp with spicy salt. In the mid-’80s, Mon Kee tried opening a second restaurant in Beverly Hills called Mon Kee West. Where the original was a bare-bones dive, the new place was expensively ornate. The food got fancied up, too. Regulars of the old place complained--the twice-cooked scallops weren’t as delicious, the whole catfish wasn’t as fresh-tasting--and eventually Mon Kee West closed. (Other Mon Kee-owned Chinese seafood restaurants, called Mandarin Cove, have less serious intentions.)

Now Mon Kee is testing the waters in Encino, testing them with steamed flounder, sizzling oysters, lobster with ginger and green onions. Mon Kee may not be the best Chinese seafood restaurant in Los Angeles anymore, but it’s working hard to become the best Chinese seafood restaurant in the San Fernando Valley.

Mon Kee, 17337 Ventura Blvd., Encino, (818) 788-7272.