How to Check Pipes When Buying a House
QUESTION: I am looking at an older house and I’d like to get some tips on what to check for when inspecting the water and plumbing system.
ANSWER: Most likely, you’ll be looking at iron pipes that were commonly used in older homes. They have a projected life of about 45 years and are generally replaced on an as-needed basis using copper pipes. Unless a special electrolytic coupling is used at the joint between the iron and copper sections, galvanic action can cause deterioration of the iron pipe. This is indicated by a buildup of rust and mineral deposits at the joints.
A problem to look for with brass pipes is that the zinc in the brass gradually dissolves into the water, leaving holes in the pipe. Water oozing out at these pinholes evaporates. The minerals contained in the water are then deposited on the surface of the pipe and eventually seal the leak. A pipe in this condition should be replaced.
Another common plumbing problem concerns sink drains that have S-type drain traps. These traps are no longer allowed in many communities because they don’t always vent properly. If the trap loses its water seal, you have an open pipe between the sewer and the sink. Noxious sewer gases can then seep into the room. S-traps are found in older homes and in some newer renovations that were not approved by the municipal building inspector.
Two Ways to Deal With Settled Steps
Q: The concrete steps leading to our front door have settled and the threshold is now dangerously high. What are the alternatives for resolving this problem?
A: You have two: You can resurface the existing steps or you can jack them up. If you resurface, the overlay on each tread must be at least one inch thick. Build a form so that riser heights will all be equal and so there’s a slight but uniform tilt toward the front to provide proper drainage. Sand the bonding surfaces with coarse emery cloth to create a “tooth” for the new material. Use sand-cement mix with a liquid bonding agent or an epoxy patching mix.
To raise the present stair system to its original position, dig down underneath it and use hydraulic jacks to lift the steps. Once the steps have been raised, pour a new footing in the cavity below using a concrete mix with coarse aggregate. (Note: In cold climates, the base of the footing must extend at least six inches below the frost line.)
How to Paint Over Hardwood Paneling
Q: I would like to paint over simulated wood-grain hardwood paneling that has V-grooves in the surface. How can I best prepare the panels for painting and ensure that the grooves won’t show?
A: The surest way to create a smooth, paint-receptive surface would be to apply drywall over the paneling, but this may involve other alterations you’re not prepared for.
A second alternative would be to sand the paneling lightly to remove any gloss, then tape and compound over the grooves and seams. Lay a bed of wallboard compound over each groove with a 3-inch putty knife, apply tape while the compound is still wet, and smooth the tape with a 4-inch taping knife.
When the first application is dry, apply a thin second coat of compound with a 6-inch taping knife. A third coat applied with an 8- or 10-inch knife may be required. Sand lightly between coats with medium (120-grit) paper.
Range Color Cannot Be Changed Easily
Q: We would like to change the color of our kitchen appliances. Is there some paint we can use in order to avoid buying a new stove, refrigerator and dishwasher?
A: You cannot change the color of your range easily. To withstand high heat levels, ranges are hot-dipped into porcelain. The finish is so hard that no other coating will adhere well when exposed to heat. You would have to remove the porcelain finish and refinish with a silicone-base paint, the only type of paint that can withstand the heat.
While dishwashers, washing machines and clothes dryers are also porcelainized to resist rust, refrigerators and freezers are usually finished with enamel. Enamel finishes should be rubbed with No. 1 steel wool to produce a suitable bonding texture and sprayed with a paint formulated for metal. Auto finishes can be used to re-create the luster of the original finish.
Proper Dimensions for Interior Stairway
Q: I am planning to build an addition to my house and I want to build an interior stairway for access. Are there specific design dimensions that I should follow from a safety point of view?
A: The two main concerns in stairway design are the treads (the steps) and the risers (the vertical sections that link the steps). It’s important that the riser height be the same for all steps. Otherwise, the dimensional variation interrupts the natural rhythm of ascending and descending the steps, producing a tripping hazard.
Also, the treads must not be too narrow, otherwise a person would need to place his foot diagonally on the treads for safe and comfortable support.
The U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD), in its “Design Guide for Home Safety,” recommends the following design specifications for interior stairs:
The maximum riser height should be 7 1/2 inches. Minimum run width should be 10 inches and minimum tread width, 11 1/4 inches. The maximum nosing width should be 1 1/4 inches. The stairs should not exceed 16 risers per run.
Handrail height should be between 36 and 42 inches, and you should maintain an adequate ceiling height.
For further information on any home problem, write to Popular Mechanics, Readers Service Bureau, 224 W. 57th St., New York, N.Y. 10019.