Preparation Key to Repainting Paneling

QUESTION: Several years ago, I paneled three rooms with a dark shaded, low-priced paneling. Now, I would like to paint the paneling a lighter color to brighten the rooms. Will this require a special paint? What treatment, if any, should I give the paneling prior to painting? Should I use a brush or a roller?

ANSWER: Prior to painting, the walls should be cleaned thoroughly. If these are kitchen or bathroom walls they may have become grease- or scum-coated. Wash them with a detergent solution on a nearly dry cloth to remove the coating without delaminating the paneling.

If the walls are dry, make sure they are dust-free to avoid lumps in the paint job. They should then be covered with an oil-base paint primer: one that will not allow the satin on the panels to bleed through.

Some stains contain a dye that can be dissolved by paint or primer and dark stains like yours can show through the primer coat. Before priming, try out a small, obscure area to see if the stain bleeds through. If it doesn’t, then prime all the walls using either brush or roller.

Let the primer coat dry completely before applying the finish coat because even slightly damp primer cannot seal properly. Once the walls are sealed with primer, put on the finish coat of your choice.

If the stain does bleed through the primer, you will have to use a stain-suppressing primer. There are several brands of these. One such primer is called Under Cover, manufactured by Parks Corp. (800) 225-8543). It costs about $17 per gallon.

New Finish on Vinyl Can Last Long Time

Q: I’d like to change the color of my vinyl siding, but I’m afraid the new finish may not be as long-lasting as the existing finish. What do I do?

A: While the new finish on vinyl might not be as durable as the factory finish, there’s no reason it shouldn’t last as long as a fresh coat of paint on wood siding. Wash the siding thoroughly with naptha, then again with soap and water. When it is dry, apply a good-quality acrylic latex.

Sealer Can Be Used on Bare Wood Floor

Q: I’ve heard that a freshly scraped wood floor should be finished with four coats of polyurethane varnish. That’s pretty expensive, not to mention time-consuming. Is there any way to seal the floor before applying the varnish to reduce the number of coats necessary?

A: Yes, you can use a sealer. But be sure it is compatible with the polyurethane varnish. Dura Seal 500 made by Minwax is one such product. It’s fast-drying. The first coat of varnish can be applied over it after 30 minutes. At least two coats of varnish should be applied over sealer.

Insulation in Wall Blocking Airflow

Q: I have a ranch-style house that has no vapor barrier in the walls or ceiling. I recently added more insulation to the ceiling and have blown insulation into the walls. Now the paint outside the house is blistering. What should I do?

A: By blowing insulation into the walls, you’ve restricted the airflow inside the wall cavity. Consequently, the moisture-laden air that migrates from the interior of the house to the wall cavity cannot pass harmlessly outside. Instead, the moisture is absorbed by the wood siding, causing the paint to lose adhesion and peel.

A vapor barrier paint should correct this problem. This product, available at home-improvement centers, is applied like a paint and can be used on a previously painted surface. It can also be used as a general-purpose primer for wallboard or plaster.

For further information on any home problem, write to Popular Mechanics, Readers Service Bureau, 224 West 57th Street, New York, N.Y. 10019.