Sea Breezes and the Queen Mary

And you thought all Long Beach had to offer was the Spruce Goose. . . . City Grill, 1 World Trade Center, Long Beach. (213) 499-7040. Style : eclectic for expense accounts. Setting : Nouveau homey. Recommended : chili; pot roast; pasilla pepper filled with shrimp, corn and goat cheese. Cost per person : $15-$30. Collage, 762 Pacific Ave. (213) 437-3324. Style : one-time gas station now pumping a little of this and a little of that. Setting : bits and pieces of artwork. Recommended : Southwestern chicken sandwich; Tunisian lamb sausage with cumin and jalapenos ; a dish of “homemade” ice cream. Cost per person : $15-$25. L’Opera Ristorante, 101 Pine Ave. (213) 491-0066. Style : The rustic Italian food served at this sizzling restaurant will make you want to sing praises. Setting : grand, with bright and shiny display kitchen. Recommended : vegetarian lasagna; gnocchi in mascarpone sauce; mezzelune aragosta , pasta filled with lobster and ricotta in a fresh tomato sauce. Cost per person : $31-$70. Pasta al Dente, 5856 Naples Plaza. (213) 433-1616. Style : Westside wannabe for pizzas and pastas. Setting : white rooms with lots of mirrors, turquoise accents and classical sound tracks. Recommended : scallops with pasta Dijon; al dente pizza; angel hair bocca caldo. Cost per person : $15-$25. Pine Avenue Fish House, 100 W. Broadway. (213) 432-PINE. Style : Ocean Avenue Seafood spinoff. Setting : cheery chintz. Recommended : calamari cocktail; crab cakes; grilled yellowfin steak in cilantro-mint pesto. Cost per person : $12-$30.