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Plants

Gardening : Grapes Reward Proper Selection With Bounty

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<i> Sidnam has written garden columns and features for The Times since 1975. </i>

Grapes are among the most versatile of fruiting plants. A canopy of luxuriant grape leaves over a patio provides cool shade on the hottest of summer days. When trained on an arbor or fence, the vines add a touch of beauty to any landscape. And the juicy, sweet fruit provides delicious, healthy snacks and desserts as well as homemade juice, jam and jelly.

Now, during bare-root season, most local nurseries have a good supply of grapevines. However, most Southlanders should be selective when choosing grape varieties. Too often, home gardeners in Southern California try to grow the grapes that they enjoy and often buy in the market. And with little success. Table grapes such as Thompson seedless and Emperor require a great amount of summer heat and are just not adapted to the climatic conditions in most areas of the Southland.

To experience success with grapes you must match the grape variety to your particular climatic conditions. Once you do this, you will find grapes to be easy to care for and they will provide a generous supply of luscious fresh fruit.

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There are three major categories of grape: American, European and hybrid. American grapes, represented by such varieties as the popular Concord, have skins that easily slip from the pulp and have soft flesh and a distinctive flavor and aroma. They are used mostly for fresh fruit, jelly and juice.

European grapes, such as Thompson seedless and most of the popular wine varieties, have tight skins that cling to the firm flesh and are generally mild-flavored. Hybrids are crossbred to utilize the best traits of different varieties.

The following grapes are the most generally recommended varieties for the milder Southern California regions. Keep in mind that residents of the hottest inland valleys of the Southland can probably experience success with such heat-loving varieties as Thompson seedless and Emperor. And in general, the warmer summer regions will produce better fruit than coastal areas. The varieties mentioned here are usually widely available in local nurseries.

--Flame seedless. Produces large clusters of light red fruit that are seedless. The texture is firm and crunchy and the flavor is excellent. European type.

--Concord. A very popular old-time favorite. Produces large bluish-black grapes with musty flavor and aroma. Concord is an especially good bet for the cooler coastal valleys. A variety called San Diego Giant Concord is a larger version of Concord. Concord is not recommended for the hot summer areas of Southern California, however, a variety called California Concord should produce satisfactorily in these areas. American type.

--Perlette. Somewhat similar in appearance to Thompson seedless, but more of a yellowish color. Fruit is seedless, but not quite as sweet as Thompson seedless. A good substitute for Thompson seedless in the milder areas as it requires far less heat. European type.

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--Cardinal. Large dark-red grapes with green flesh and a muscat-like flavor. The vines are vigorous and rapid-growing and are a good choice for covering an arbor. Very abundant fruit clusters. European type.

--Lady Finger. A green grape with large, long slender berries (fruit of grapes are called berries) of good quality. European type.

--Muscat. Also called Muscat of Alexandria, produces very large round green or amber berries. Very aromatic fruit with a sweet, musky flavor. Requires a little more heat than others mentioned here. It is poorly suited for the coastal valleys. European type.

--Black Monukka. Produces purple seedless fruit in large clusters. Good flavor and quality. European type.

--Golden Muscat. The best choice for immediate coastal areas as it has a low heating requirement. The yellowish-green fruit has a muscat flavor. American hybrid type.

Grapes require a sunny location, but they will tolerate a wide range of soil types as long as there is adequate drainage.

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When planting bare-root vines, cut off all but one or two of the branches, then plant deep, leaving only one or two buds exposed. If you live in a very hot area, the exposed part should be covered with a light dressing of mulch or loose soil to prevent drying. Space vines 6-10 feet apart.

Grapevines need three years to reach full production and require training and regular pruning. The pruning, which occurs each year in early winter, is a must as it not only shapes the vines but also regulates fruit production. It is recommended that most of the American varieties be pruned by a method called cane pruning, and most of the European types by spur pruning. When you purchase your grape vines from the nursery, you should also purchase a book on pruning that has step-by-step diagrams.

When the vines are newly planted they will require regular watering and should not be allowed to dry out. However, once they become established, the watering need not be frequent but it should be deep. Mature grape vines should be encouraged to develop deep roots, which they are naturally inclined to do.

Grapevines are not heavy feeders. Apply a light dressing of a nitrogen fertilizer in mid-spring. Water thoroughly after feeding.

To test grapes for the proper harvest stage, you simply check for sweetness by periodically sampling the fruit.

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