Some Europeans Give Previews in New York

Fewer retailers are going overseas to view and buy European designer collections this season. But that doesn’t mean popular designer labels will be missing from stores next fall. Several alternatives for ordering European ready-to-wear collections have developed in recent years.

The Italians, fashion’s most innovative merchandisers, have led the way in shaping these back-up systems, created to accommodate big U.S. stores that want to place orders early, as well as smaller ones that cannot always afford the costly trek to Europe. Given that the Europeans do about 60% of their business during twice-yearly presentations of their ready-to-wear lines, creating options made sense.

Under the early-order, or “pre-sale” system, a growing number of Italian, along with some French and British designers, present edited versions of collections in their New York show rooms, even before showing them in Europe. Now, for the first time, Italian companies including Genny, Byblos and Dolce e Gabbana have also scheduled showings of their complete collections in New York, within several weeks of presenting them in Milan. All, however, have reserved the right to cancel the New York showings if sales go well in Milan. Gianni Versace and Krizia said they may do the same, and will also decide after the Milan orders are written.

There is another option for those not traveling overseas. Most European designers ship videotapes of their shows, along with fabric swatches, to retailers who request them. More U.S. buyers may shop by video or in the New York showrooms, at least while riding out the recession.

While these options could keep business going in hard times, most retailers contend that anything except a ringside seat at the European shows is a distant second choice.

“I don’t want to be limited to the edited collection that the designer thinks are his best styles,” said Los Angeles boutique owner Shauna Stein. “I want to see it all, and (to) choose based on my concept for my store. It’s much better to see, touch, check the construction and quality firsthand.”

“You lose something if you don’t see the clothes in their place of origin,” said Wilmer Weiss, a vice president for I. Magnin. “Being there adds a panache to what and how you buy.”

It is uncertain whether French designers will follow the Italian’s lead and show their full collections in New York after the Paris shows. So far, they are resisting the idea.

“Valentino, Chanel, Saint Laurent and Ungaro will not bring their fall collections to New York to show,” said Martha Kramer, a spokeswoman for Emanuel Ungaro. “Few of the French want this to happen. Certainly not the Chambre Syndicale (the organizer of French ready-to-wear and couture shows), or the city government of Paris. It would be a disaster for the tourism business, especially hotels and restaurants.”

Kramer added, “Mr. Ungaro, for one, feels very strongly about showing his collections on his own turf.”