A High-Profile Burrito Called Rudy

Fast food joints come and go, but it is only the best and most venerable of neighborhood eateries whose food loses its generic identity and becomes known by the name of the restaurant.

And in La Habra, a burrito is not a burrito, it is a “Rudy’s.”

Over the past 35 years, owner Rudy Perez has changed the location of Rudy’s Mexicatessen five times. But at each restaurant, the menu mainstay has been the shredded beef and cheese burrito--a gloriously sloppy concoction whose secret is a tasty, red meat sauce.

Almost as popular as his burrito is Perez himself. Gregarious and good-natured, the silver-haired restaurateur greets each customer as family. And when Perez leaves at night, the reins are handed over to son-in-law John Ugay, who possesses the special, rather endearing talent of never forgetting a customer’s name.

In addition to the “Rudy’s,” which goes for a miserly $1.90, other specialties include a loaded Super Quesadilla made with cheese, guacamole, salsa and beef or chicken for $3.50. The enchiladas (chicken, beef or cheese, $1.50) and soft tostada ($2.10) are also packed with quality ingredients.

A variety of imported and domestic beers is available.

Although open to 8 p.m. most weekdays (Rudy’s Mexicatessen is closed weekends), Perez does the majority of his business during an intensely frenetic lunch hour. Best bet during lunch is to call ahead and allow about 20 minutes for the order.

Rudy’s Mexicatessen, 2101 E. Lambert Road 100, La Habra. Open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and till 9 p.m. on Friday. Closed weekends. (213) 697-0047.