Glacier Bay Park: Changing Alaska Masterpiece

Mention the word Alaska and a variety of images come to mind: clear skies, rugged mountains, stalwart grizzlies and playful whales. To get a sense of the many facets of Alaska would take years of travel. But there is one place that epitomizes the rugged mystique and expansive character of Alaska--Glacier Bay National Park.

Spanning more than 3 million acres in southeastern Alaska, Glacier Bay has some of the best scenery in the state. The park is a photographer’s paradise that contains two species of bear, four types of whales, more than 200 species of birds, 16 tidewater glaciers and one of the highest coastal mountain ranges in the world.

The unspoiled wilderness--untouched by the Exxon Valdez oil spill--is surprisingly accessible via daily ferry and airline service from Juneau to the small town of Gustavus, which is the jumping-off point for trips to Glacier Bay. Like the park, Gustavus is reached only by boat or airline. And fastest access is provided by Alaska Airlines, the only airline that has daily jet service from Juneau.

Taxi vans transport visitors over the nine-mile road that leads from Guastavus to Glacier Bay Park Headquarters at Bartlett Cove. There park rangers are available to suggest activities, answer questions, lead nature walks and present evening programs.

For an outstanding introduction to the park, board one of the concessionaire tour boats that carry visitors in comfort into the wild northern portions of Glacier Bay. Cruises range from all-day to first-class, two-night tours. A ranger-naturalist provides a description of sights during the trip. It is a good opportunity to learn more about the phenomenal changes that have characterized the area.

One of the most obvious changes is the amount of ice present. As recently as 1750, Glacier Bay did not exist. During this time, the height of the Little Ice Age, a giant tongue of ice covered the bay as far south as Icy Strait. Explorers of the time, perusing the coastline for the mythical Northwest Passage, found only an enormous wall of ice.

For example, when George Vancouver sailed by in 1794, he found a great glacier 4,000 feet thick, 20 miles wide and 100 miles long occupying what would later be Glacier Bay. Since that time, the Grand Pacific Glacier has melted back to the head of Tarr Inlet, 65 miles from Icy Strait. The speed of this retreat has not been documented anywhere else in the world.

Remarkable sights such as this brought many scientists to the area. One of the first to undertake the difficult journey was the renowned naturalist John Muir.

It was in Glacier Bay that Muir finally saw the process of glacial erosion in action. After wandering for years through the High Sierra in search of pieces to the Ice Age puzzle, Muir observed firsthand how the landscape was molded and shaped by glacial activity in Glacier Bay.

He once embarked on a four-day solo trek across a huge glacier. His goals were to study the glacier and rid himself of a severe bronchial cough. After walking 40 miles over the ice, fighting hunger, suffering snow-blindness and falling into a water-filled crevasse, he proclaimed that the marvelous trip had made him “rich in new facts” about the area. Recalling that the cough which had plagued him for three months was also gone, Muir reasoned that “no lowland microbe could possibly survive such experiences.”

The glacier where Muir concentrated his efforts was named in his honor. Like many glaciers in the park, Muir Glacier is currently undergoing a retreat.

In addition to the dynamic glaciers, the park’s marine mammal population has also experienced certain changes, though not because of natural processes.

Humpback whales have been observed to alter their feeding and breathing behavior in response to boat traffic in the bay. Since the majestic cetaceans do not feed year-round, they must store enough fat in the summer to last the entire year. To prevent the whales from fleeing their feeding grounds, regulations now require boaters to maintain minimum distances from whales. Officials hope the new standards are sufficient, for the loss of whales from Glacier Bay is one change that no one wants.

Adventurous visitors often use the tour boats as a transport to backcountry rendezvous points. The tour boats stop daily at designated spots to pick up and drop off backpackers and kayakers. Simply tell the captain where you’re going and when to return and head off into the wilderness. Amazingly, the reinforced hull of the boat allows the craft to beach on a remote gravel bar, drop a ladder from the bow, pick up and drop off people and then reverse the powerful engines to continue the voyage.

The usual departure point in the West Arm of Glacier Bay is Ibach Point. Backpackers leaving from there can explore the region around the magnificent Reid Glacier or hike south five miles to dazzling views of the immense Brady Icefield. Kayakers have even more options, such as exploring Reid Inlet or paddling north to the mighty Grand Pacific Glacier in Tarr Inlet. (The Ibach Point round-trip fare from park headquarters in Bartlett Cove is $165.)

Highlight of any trip up the West Arm is experiencing the hidden jewel of Johns Hopkins Inlet. This stunning region exemplifies the enormous power and beauty of nature.

Glaciers of every size and description line the precipitous walls of the fiord. Some cling to the cliffs like white tentacles while others hurl themselves into the water. Above the ice, lofty peaks draped in eternal snow claw the sky. Mountains of the Fairweather Range, with summits reaching more than 15,000 feet, surround the inlet as if to protect a priceless treasure. Surveying this pristine panorama, it is easy to understand why Johns Hopkins Inlet is often called the wildest of all the inlets in Glacier Bay.

At the head of the inlet lies the imposing Johns Hopkins Glacier. Tour boats can get surprisingly close and the ice almost seems alive, as unstable blocks are occasionally tossed into the bay. Ranging in size from a small car to a multi-story building, the blocks slam the water with a thunderous sound. Echoes created by this calving process dance off the cliffs many times before gradually fading. But they are quickly replaced by others as the glacier continues a booming symphony. While camping in the inlet on kayak trips, I have often been awakened by the explosive sound and sudden surf generated by this active glacier. Johns Hopkins Inlet is definitely a must-see.

An alternative to the marine route is to charter a small plane for an overflight of the park. Glacier Bay Airways provides one-hour “flightseeing” tours of the upper bay. These sightseeing flights, which cost $100, are almost guaranteed to provide dazzling photos and stunning vantage points.

Should the goal be to relax near Bartlett Cove, there’s still plenty to do. A gentle hiking trail wanders near a tidal lagoon to the Bartlett River estuary. Fishing for cutthroat trout and Dolly Varden, plus strawberry and blueberry picking, can provide an enjoyable day. Serious fishermen in search of halibut and salmon can arrange a charter boat at the Glacier Bay Lodge in Bartlett Cove, and the lodge chef will even prepare the day’s catch for dinner.

Or simply stroll along the shore, enjoy the clean air and reflect on the remarkable landscape: the swaying flowers, the bountiful sea, the towering peaks.

Like many others, I’ve found Glacier Bay to be a masterpiece--a creation not fixed through time, but constantly evolving to expose new wonders. At times this extraordinary artwork seems too exquisite to alter. But those fortunate enough to experience Glacier Bay realize that beauty need not be stationary, and that a masterpiece of nature really can get better as time goes on.

GUIDEBOOK

Finding Glacier Bay Park

Getting there: Alaska Airlines has three daily flights from Los Angeles to Gustavus, with stops in Seattle and Juneau. Cost is $668 round trip for advance reservations. Call (800) 426-0333. TLC Taxis charges $18 for the nine-mile ride from Gustavus to Bartlett Cave.

Where to stay: The Glacier Bay Lodge ranges from $24 for a six-person dormitory room to $126 for a private motel-style room. Call 800-622-2042. Budget-conscious travelers can use the free campground nestled in the spruce forest at Bartlett Cove. A warming hut, bear-proof food cache and free firewood are also provided. No reservations necessary. Accommodations in Gustavus range from $200 at the Gustavus Inn (907-697-2254) and $168 at the Glacier Bay Country Inn (907-697-2288) to $65 at the A Puffin’s Bed and Breakfast (907-697-2260).

What to do: Ranger-naturalist hikes and slide shows daily at Bartlett Cove. Tour boats into upper bay operated by the Glacier Bay Lodge provide all-day cruises to Johns Hopkins Inlet for $142 and two-night tours for $699, including meals. Backpackers and kayakers may be dropped off at designated points along the way. Round-trip drop-off fare is $165. Kayaks rented at Bartlett Cove from Glacier Bay Sea Kayaks, $30-$45 per day, depending on trip duration. “Flightseeing” tours of the park offered by Glacier Bay Airways (907-697-2249); $100 for one-hour flight. Alaska Discovery offers first-rate kayak trips ranging from four days (cost: $800) to 10 days (cost: $1,550); (907) 586-1911.

When to go: Summer is best. Daytime temperatures are usually cool with highs in the 50-60 degree range. Usually overcast, often rainy.

For more information: Contact Superintendent, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Gustavus, Alaska 99826, (907) 697-2231, or Puffin Travel in Gustavus, which has information on the airline flights and cruises. Call (907) 697-2260.