Shedding Light on Rhododendrons During Walk at Sonoma Reserve

One of the annual rites, and fine sights, of spring is a walk among the pale pink blossoms of the Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve in Sonoma County, north of San Francisco. The California rhododendrons festoon the forest floor from about mid-April to mid-June.

The rhododendron’s success depends on its struggle for light in a dark world dominated by the tanbark oak, Douglas fir and redwood. A severe forest fire that scorched the slopes in this area was responsible for the sudden emergence of the rhododendrons here. Now, as the tall tree forest regenerates, it restricts the light available to rhododendrons, thereby diminishing their grand display.

The Kruse family established a ranch here in 1880, raised sheep and extensively logged the coastal slopes. Edward Kruse donated the land to the state in 1933, in memory of his father, who was the founder of San Francisco’s German Bank--later, First Western Bank.

The 317-acre Kruse Rhododendron Reserve adjoins 6,000-acre Salt Point State Park. Sheer, sandstone cliffs and sandy coves highlight the state park’s seven miles of coastline.

A walk atop the park’s bluffs is sure to be a memorable experience. Tide pools, sea stacks and sea caves add to the coastal drama.

Marine life is abundant in tide pools. One of the first underwater reserves to be set aside in California--Gerstle Cove--is popular with divers.

Several midden sites found within park boundaries suggest that the Pomo and Coast Yuki Indians spent many summers camped on this coast.

Directions to trail head: Salt Point State Park is about 90 miles north of San Francisco (or 18 miles north of Jenner, seven miles north of Ft. Ross) on Highway 1. To reach the Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve, turn east off Highway 1 onto steep Kruse Ranch Road and travel half a mile to the trail head. To hike Salt Point: From Highway 1, turn west into the state park’s campground and follow signs to Marine Terrace Parking Area.

The hikes:

Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve: Since this is a loop trail, you may begin from the leg north of Kruse Ranch Road or from the leg to the south.

The trail crosses two gulches--Chinese and Phillips. You’ll explore the mouths of these gulches if you take the Salt Point Trail through the state park.

Enjoy the forest of tanoak, Douglas fir, second-generation redwood and, of course, rhododendron. Photographers will delight at the fern-filled canyons and picturesque footbridges.

Salt Point: Hike north atop the dramatic bluffs of Salt Point. In a quarter mile, you’ll cross Warren Creek. At the creek mouth is a little cove, one of about a dozen you’ll encounter along the state park’s coastline.

The coves are quiet now, but in the last century there was much activity. Aleut hunters, brought to nearby Fort Ross by the Russian-American Co., hunted otters and seals. Lumber schooners maneuvered into the coves to load redwoods logged from nearby slopes.

The path reaches the bluffs above Stump Beach Cove, which is not, as you might suspect, named for the remains of redwoods logged nearby. Instead, the name honors Sheriff Stump, law and order for Salt Point township in the olden days.

An old farm road leads down to the cove, where there’s a picnic area. You can sit a while and watch the terns, cormorants, gulls, osprey and brown pelicans.

If you return to the trail head from Stump Beach Cove, you’ll have hiked a total of 2 1/2 miles. To continue this hike, follow the trail up the north slope above Stump Creek. Rejoining the bluffs, you dip in and out of Phillips Gulch, Chinese Gulch and other little gullies.

The path is not particularly distinct, and you must devise your own route in places along the edge of the grassy headlands. Photographers will marvel at the spectacle of surf meeting rock. Waterfalls spill into picturesque coves at the mouths of the Chinese and Phillips gulches.

After a time, the trail becomes easier to follow, alternating between open meadowland and wind-sculpted stands of Bishop pine and Douglas fir.

A good destination is the picnic area south of Fisk Mill Cove, which is about three miles from the trail head. Or you can continue another two miles north to Horseshoe Cove at the northern end of the state park.

Kruse Rhododendron Loop Trail, Salt Point Trail Where: Salt Point State Park, Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve. Distance: Kruse Rhododendron Loop is 2 1/4 miles, Salt Point coastal trail is 2-6 miles round trip. Terrain: Coastal bluffs, second-growth redwood forest. Highlights: Waterfalls spilling into coves, rhododendron blossoms. Degree of Diffculty: Moderate For more information: Contact Salt Point State Park at (707) 865-2391.