THE $5 CHEF : Lamb Tricks

There’s more to lamb than elegant high-priced chops and crown roasts. Even a tight food budget has room for the versatile meat if you plan for more than one meal.

I like fresh American lamb rather than the frozen imported variety. Lamb takes well to the spicing of many ethnic cuisines including Mexican, Greek and French.

For the best value, buy a lamb leg large enough to cut up for two or three meals. A three-pound leg might cost $8 to $10. But cut up for other meals and teamed with lots of fresh summer vegetables, the cost per meal for four is roughly $5.

You can leave the bone in and roast the whole leg, cut the meat yourself, or ask the butcher to butterfly it (remove the bone). If the butcher has removed the bone, you can grill the lamb in one large piece, or cut it into one-pound portions (enough to serve four to six when mixed with other ingredients) for other meals. The meat can be cubed for shish kebabs or ground as an alternative for other meat. A little lamb goes a long way.

These recipes are perfect for summer outdoor grilling, winter indoor stir-frying . . . or year round roasting.

Fajitas, those tortilla - wrapped bundles of meat, peppers and onions make a fast and delicious meal. If the cost of peppers is high, use less peppers, more onions and thinly sliced carrots for color and texture. Serve with shredded lettuce, salsa, sour cream or guacamole.

LAMB FAJITAS

3/4 to 1 pound lamb meat, cut in 1-inch steaks for the grill, or strips for stir-fry

Marinade

1 carrot, whole for grill or thinly sliced for stir-fry

1 large onion, halved for grill or thinly sliced for stir-fry

1 green pepper, halved for grill or thinly sliced for stir-fry

8 medium flour tortillas, warmed

1 or 2 tablespoons oil, optional for stir-fry

Combine meat and Marinade in dish. Cover and let stand in refrigerator 4 to 6 hours.

To cook on grill: Grill meat, sliced carrot, halved onion and green pepper over hot coals, turning meat once and vegetables frequently to avoid burning. Meat will cook 5 to 6 minutes on each side. Slice meat and vegetables into thin strips and serve on warm tortillas with salsa or other condiments. Roll up.

To stir-fry, toss thinly sliced vegetables with lamb and marinade. Heat oil in large skillet or wok. On medium-high heat, stir-fry vegetables and meat about 3 to 5 minutes. Cook in 2 batches if necessary.

Serve with Salsa or other condiments on tortillas. Roll up. Makes 4 generous servings.

Marinade

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons lime juice

3 tablespoons orange juice or tequila

1 teaspoon ground oregano

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Salt, pepper

Combine olive oil, lime juice, orange juice, oregano, cumin, chile powder, cayenne and cilantro in dish large enough to hold meat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

This is an easy way to use already cooked lamb, either roasted or from the grill. The horseradish and cream cheese add zip. When stuffed with crunchy cucumbers, lettuce and tomatoes, these overstuffed pita sandwiches are perfect picnic fare.

LAMB IN PITA

4 ounces light cream cheese

1 heaping tablespoon prepared horseradish, or to taste

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 green onion, chopped, or 1 tablespoon onion, finely chopped

1 heaping tablespoon pickle relish, optional

4 pita breads

8 slices cooked leg of lamb, or about 1 1/2 cups bite-size pieces

4 large leaves lettuce

1 medium to large tomato, sliced

1/2 large cucumber, peeled and sliced

Combine cream cheese, horseradish, parsley, green onion and relish in small bowl. Cover and chill about 20 minutes. Spread cheese mixture equally on pita breads. Fill with lamb, lettuce, tomato and cucumber. Makes 4 servings.

Whether the lamb is hot from the grill or already cooked and cold from the refrigerator, this salad is a cinch to make on a hot day. Use your favorite dressing or this easy vinaigrette. With the salad greens as the main attraction (add your favorites), less lamb is needed.

LAMB SALAD

1 head lettuce (such as romaine, green or red leaf or a mixture), torn into bite-size pieces

1 small red onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings

1 medium carrot, peeled and shredded

1/2 to 3/4 pound cooked leg of lamb, cut in bite-size pieces

Mustard Dressing

Combine lettuce with red onion and 1/2 carrot. Top with lamb, then sprinkle with remaining carrot. Toss with Mustard Dressing. Makes 4 servings.

Mustard Dressing

5 to 6 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil

Juice and grated zest of 1 medium lemon or 2 to 3 tablespoons wine vinegar

1 to 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 clove garlic, pressed

Salt, pepper

Combine olive oil, lemon juice and zest, mustard to taste and garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand about 30 minutes, or make ahead and refrigerate, covered.