Soup on Ice

Icy, chilled soups are satisfying and revitalizing in the heat of summer. To make a fresh, appealing noontime meal, the only other thing you need is a loaf of bread. For a perfect supper add a salad of mixed field greens topped with cold chicken or poached salmon. To make an ideal hot-weather menu, simply add a bowl of ripe berries for dessert.

Cold soups last for several days in the refrigerator, so they can be made ahead of time. They travel well in thermos containers for picnics and brown-bagging. And they need not be laden with calories.

When serving soups at home, keep in mind that presentation can improve their appeal. I prefer to use shallow soup dishes (be sure to chill them) with a sprinkling of contrasting fresh garnish. On a more formal table, long-stemmed glass goblets are elegant containers; set them on doily-lined salad plates, then place them on a larger plate.

Fruit soups can be served in melon halves; serve vegetable-based soups in hollowed-out red, yellow or green peppers or large, firm home-grown tomatoes (remove the tops carefully so they can be used as the covers). When using any of these vegetables as bowls, place them on a plate attractively layered with green leaves.

The chilled seasonal soups that follow are simple and straightforward. The Mediterranean tomato soup with fresh basil and the peaches ‘n’ honey soup require no cooking at all. The broccoli, potato and sage soup cooks just until the vegetables are tender, which can be easily done in the cooler morning hours. They all keep in the refrigerator about three days.

Fresh tomatoes are pureed with red onion, Kalamata olives and basil leaves for a deliciously robust variation on the gazpacho theme. This soup is best prepared in the food processor. For a special dimension, serve the soup topped with a warm, grilled slice of crusty bread, lightly brushed with garlic oil.

MEDITERRANEAN TOMATO SOUP WITH FRESH BASIL

1 (3-ounce) piece red onion, halved

6 Kalamata olives, pitted

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves

3 large ripe tomatoes, halved, juiced, seeded and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 cups tomato juice

Dash sugar

Dash salt

Dash pepper

Snipped fresh basil leaves for garnish

Mince red onion, olives and basil leaves in food processor. Add tomato chunks and process until pureed. Add balsamic and red wine vinegars, tomato juice, sugar, salt and pepper. Process until smooth.

Soup can be made 3 days ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight. Serve chilled. Before serving, stir well and adjust seasonings to taste. Garnish with snipped basil leaves. Makes 4 cups.

Fruit soups are especially cool and refreshing. Here, yogurt adds tang and keeps the pureed peaches from turning dark brown. If the peaches are thin-skinned, it’s unnecessary to peel them; the little flecks of pureed skin add interest to the mixture. If you prefer this soup as a beverage, thin it with more apricot nectar and pour it into a goblet filled with lots of crushed ice.

PEACHES ‘N’ HONEY SOUP WITH YOGURT

4 ripe medium peaches, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

2/3 cup apricot nectar

1/4 cup nonfat yogurt

1 tablespoon honey

Dash salt

Snipped fresh mint or basil leaves for garnish

Puree peaches in food processor or blender. Add nectar, yogurt, honey and salt. Mix until smooth. Adjust salt and honey.

Soup can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight. Serve chilled. Before serving, stir well and adjust seasonings to taste. Garnish with fresh mint or basil. Makes 2 3/4 cups.

Fresh sage and a garnish of diced tomato give this soup great verve. Some chicken broth is necessary for the balance of flavors with the broccoli; some cream (not much) contributes to the velvety creaminess. Although this soup is good thick, it can become too thick on standing; add water as required for desired consistency.

BROCCOLI AND POTATO SOUP WITH FRESH SAGE AND TOMATO

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 large cloves garlic, minced

2 medium onions, coarsely chopped

1/3 cup fresh sage leaves

3 cups water

3 cups chicken stock

3 cups broth

Salt

1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 large bunch broccoli, florets removed, stems peeled and sliced

2/3 cup nonfat yogurt

1/4 cup whipping cream

Few drops hot pepper sauce

Freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup diced (1/4-inch) tomato shell for garnish

Snipped fresh sage leaves for garnish

Heat oil in 3-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add garlic, onions and 1/2 sage leaves. Cook until onions are tender, about 5 minutes, stirring often. Add 2 cups water, all chicken stock and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring to boil. When boiling, add potato and broccoli. Cook, covered, until vegetables are tender, about 18 minutes.

Strain vegetables from cooking liquid, reserving both. Puree vegetables with remaining sage leaves in food processor or blender until smooth. Add little cooking liquid to smooth mixture even more. Add yogurt and mix until smooth.

Combine pureed mixture, remaining soup liquid in pot along with cream, hot pepper sauce and ground pepper. Stir to combine. Add remaining water as necessary for desired consistency (soup should be thick but flowing). Adjust salt. Soup can be made 3 days ahead and refrigerated. Serve well chilled. To serve, stir well, add water as needed, adjust seasonings and garnish with diced tomatoes and snipped sage leaves. Makes 6 to 7 cups.