In Love With Mountains on Aphrodite’s Isle

On most Mediterranean islands, you go to the beach to get away from it all. Not so on Cyprus, however. There, the wise traveler heads for the hills to beat the heat and crowds.

The hills in this case are the Troodos Mountains, whose forested slopes offer superb picnicking, camping and hiking. A vast natural park towering in the center of Cyprus, the mountains are laced with foot paths, including a six-mile-long, interpreted nature trail that’s an ideal introduction to the ecology of Aphrodite’s isle.

The woodsy scene also includes some extraordinary Byzantine churches, remote monasteries with striking wall paintings and Greek-style alfresco dining. Cypriots have always found strength in their mountains. Unlike most other Mediterranean isles, here the sea has had little significance. Except for mythology, that is: Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, rose from the sea and floated ashore on a seashell at the Cypriot town of Paphos, where a temple was built in her honor.

Throughout their long history, Cypriots have looked toward the land for their livelihood. On the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains and around the cities of Limassol and Paphos are vineyards, which produce the white and black grapes vital to the island’s winemaking industry. Cyprus is currently the world’s leading per-capita producer of wine.

Teetotalers, too, will find refreshment in the Troodos Mountains. Numerous springs bubbling forth from the upper reaches of the Troodos supply delicious mineral water to Cyprus as well as to many countries in the Middle East. Trout farms can be found along rivers rushing down the lower slopes of the mountains. A trout dinner in the villages of Kakopetria or Glata will not soon be forgotten.

“A long walk in the woods in the morning, mezes and fine wine in the afternoon,” said Michael Pahos, director of the Santa Barbara County Parks Department and a recent visitor to Cyprus, summing up the charms of the island. “When you get into the Cypriot countryside, it’s like walking back in time.”

By mezes , the Greeks mean appetizers, which in simplest form consist of cheese and olives. The Cypriots, however, have elevated mezes -making to an art: tzatziki (cucumber and yogurt dip), spanakopita and tiropita (spinach and cheese pies), keftedes (tiny meat balls), taramasalata (fish roe) and much more. Add the traditional midday meal after a mammoth serving of mezes and you can forget about hiking for the rest of the day.

A couple of mezes with a friendly islander are required to gain a basic understanding of Cypriot history. Cyprus has been ruled by Greeks, Romans, Venetians and Turks. The island was part of the British empire from 1878 until its independence in 1960.

The visitor will need more than a couple of mezes , however, to decipher modern Cypriot politics. In short, the island has been divided since 1974 when the Turkish army invaded and established a Turkish Cypriot colony on the northern third of the isle. Negotiations for reunification between the internationally recognized Greek Cypriot government and the Turkish-occupied north have failed thus far.

Away from the divided city of Nicosia, most visitors will find that politics--ancient or modern--are easy to forget. The Cypriots themselves are a strange blend of laid-back Greek hospitality and entrepreneurial efficiency. Linger as long as you want at the taverna, but know that the buses run on time.

The island’s mountain road system is superb, and it’s possible to drive from the capital city of Nicosia or from the south coast resorts to the mountains in a few hours, take a hike, eat dinner and return by dark. But a better bet is to spend a few days and nights in the mountains, using one of the lovely mountain villages as your base camp.

Though the mountain towns of Troodos, Pano Platres, Prodromos and Pedoulas are indeed rustic, a surprisingly international atmosphere prevails. The British take afternoon tea, while the northern and southern Europeans gather at the outdoor cafes, which are also frequented by Arabs and the Cypriots themselves.

Pano Platres, perched in the middle of the mountains and accessible by a good road, is one of the most scenic mountain resort towns in the Mediterranean. It’s definitely a well-placed base for hikes and excursions in the area.

Another picturesque town, in the northern part of the mountains on the main road from Nicosia to Troodos, is Kakopetria, which means “bad rock.” As the story goes, a large boulder perched on the slope above the village was supposed to give good luck to the newlyweds who visited it--that is, until one day when the big boulder gave way and crushed a couple while they were meditating about long life and happiness.

Old town Kakopetria, with its cobblestone roads and mud-brick homes overlooking a river, is being restored by the government. Pubs, restaurants and semi-rustic hotels cater to visitors in the newer part of town.

Before hitting the trail, pick up maps and information from one of the CTO (Cyprus Tourism Organization) offices on the island. Four signed trails--Artemis, Atalanta, Calidonian and Persephone--explore the Troodos Mountains. The paths climb--sometimes gently, sometimes steeply--through a mixed conifer forest of Aleppo pine, Corsican pine and cedar. At lower elevation are golden oak, alder and plane trees.

Lucky hikers may get a glimpse of the agrino, the Cypriot mountain sheep--a regal creature with a pale brown coat and curled, ram-like horns. For centuries, a large population roamed the Troodos Mountains, but by 1937 the sheep had dwindled to 15. British and Cypriot conservationists protected the species, with the happy result that today more than 400 moufflon now live in the mountains.

One favorite walk is to the top of Mt. Olympus (6,401 feet), the highest peak on the island. During winter months (January through March), skiing, not hiking, is the most popular pastime on the slopes of Mt. Olympus. Perhaps the most popular hike is along the nature trail beginning at Troodos Square and ending at Chromion Camp. At six miles in length, with 61 numbered stops, it’s surely one of the world’s longest interpreted nature trails. Besides offering an island ecology lesson, the trail also offers a refreshing spring two miles up the trail, as well as breathtaking views of distant villages and monasteries.

Exploring on foot is the best way to get to know Aphrodite’s isle. Besides its mountain trails, Cyprus also offers some superb historical walks through Byzantine villages, Roman ruins and Venetian fortifications, as well as long, quiet beach walks.

Away from the popular beach resorts, a profound tranquillity reigns. The Mediterranean laps against castellated rocks, pine resin perfumes the mountain air, grasshoppers chirp around the ruins of ancient temples, and the warm sun wraps the island in a peaceful forgetfulness.

Where: Troodos Mountains. Distance: 1-12 miles. Terrain: Wooded ravines, scree-covered slopes. Highlights: Pine forests, intriguing villages, monasteries, Mediterranean views, superb Greek food at trail heads. Degree of difficulty: Moderate.For more information: Contact the Cyprus Tourism Organization, 13 East 40th St., New York 10016, (212) 683-5280.